looking for a permanent clutch switch for my swap.

[TwoTone IDI]

some of you may know i am in the middle of a C6-ZF swap. everything is going great so far.

one thing i lack is some kind of clutch safety switch. i can get the actual part, but i would also need wires and the corresponding connector to actually make it functional. the switch looks like it has 7 pins... is that really necessary?

has anybody retrofitted an OEM style switch period?

 

[crashnzuk]

I'll say this, vehicles were made for years and years and years without a clutch safety switch. I don't see the need to retro-fit one myself
Travis..

 

[dave186]

Never have had one on mine either. Real trucks (semis) dont have em. If you really want one, go down to your local truck shop and and ask them for a universal back up alarm switch. They make one that has a spring sticking off of it, you mount it so your pedal hits that spring and it pushes switch. Hard to explain, but very simple. Here is a link with part numbers.

http://www.eccolink.com/ProductPages/SwitchesHMPG.cfm

 

[82F100SWB]

If you have cruise and you want it working, you need it, otherwise, just bypass it. None of my trucks have 'em, and Ford never put them in until at least 83.

 

[dave186]

you dont need it for the the cruise, you just need to jumper some more wires . Thats how mine is.

 

[jwalterus]

maybe use a pedal-mounted brake light switch on the clutch?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Seven trucks sitting in the yard right now; the clutch-switches on every one of them have the wires skinned and twisted together.

It is the first modification I do to any vehicle.

Anyone silly enough to crank an engine IN GEAR don't need to be behind the wheel.

 

[TwoTone IDI]

my only concern is whether or not it is a safety issue with regard to my state safety inspection.

i dont mind splicing wires together to make cruise work. eventually i will want to sell this truck and id like it to be in a state where all of its options work, cruise included

 

[david_lee]

if you want it all working right, then use a clutch mounted brake light switch or scavenge the wires and whatever else is requred off a donor truck. if you are concerned about inspection criteria and still want to be able to bypass the safty(there are situations where it can be beneficial to have the ability to crank the engine with the clutch out and the truck in gear), then once it is working correctly, leave it all the way it is and figure out which wires you would splice together for a bypass and splice a couple wires to them and put them on a toggle switch. then, if you should feel the need for one reason or another all you have to do is flip a switch and you are in business.

 

[bike-maker]

I just did the C6 - ZF swap myself. There was 4 wires running to the C6; 2 for reverse lights, 2 for the neutral safety switch. The ZF had just the reverse light wiring - wires were the same colors on both trucks. The 2 wires that used to go to the neutral safety switch on the C6- I think they were both purple - could be run up to your clutch safety switch. Or just stick the two wires together and not have the safety.

 

[82F100SWB]

Most of the 87+ trucks have a pigtail in the cab to go to the clutch switch, not all, but the majority do. So, it could be a simple plug and play operation.
I know my 96 does, and it needs hooked up, as my buddy just ziptied the MLPS in place on the crossmember and the truck thinks it's in park, so no cruise...

 

[punkmechanic]

On my 87 cc I have the switch bypassed now. When I first did the c6 to zf I got the pedal and switch from u pull it and had it working correctly. You need to pull the connector under the dash that is near the clutch pedal and has just a looped wire in it (comes out of one pin and right back into the other its maybe 4 inches of wire). That connector plugs right into the switch ( on mine anyway). then crawl under the truck and put the wires for the reverse lights on the revese switch to the zf and the other two ( if I remember correctly) are twisted together. My cruise has never worked and its on the list of things to fix. I got sick of the clutch being so stiff (bad pedal bushing) and haveing to hold it while cranking forever everytime I did work and got air in the system, hence its current bypassed state.

punk

 

[TwoTone IDI]

right now i have the old neutral safety switch bypassed. i havent even started the truck yet so thats how its gonna stay for a little while. i dont have the provisional wiring under the dash.

@david lee i strongly considered using a brake light switch cuz i have one sitting on the bench. unfortunately its normally open so i dont really know of a good way to use it unless i used it to trigger a relay, which i guess is possible.

while were on the subject of the reverse, does anybody know where i can source a connector for the ZF side?

 

[david_lee]

i really only suggested a brake light switch because the only time i have had a need to mess with one, the universal replacement switch i bought had three connections on it so that you could use it in either a normally open or normally closed system. and i think i only paid about $5 for it, and i think it was the highest price one on the rack

 

[gatorman21218]

Two things-
1) Vehicle Inspection passing/failing GREATLY depends on who you go to. My mechanic passed me after I left the truck overnight (in December) and we all know how these things smoke when cold. I also passed without a muffler- you cant miss that unless you are completely deaf.

2) My truck wont crank/start unless the clutch is pressed down. However I leave it in reverse when parked and when I accidentally arced the solenoid with a wrench putting on a positive lead to the stereo the truck started to crank and damn near ran over my foot. You probably can bypass the system some how but I would put one in if not for that reason only (so you cant crank with the tranny in gear)