IP THROTTLE LINKAGE/SHAFT REPLACEMENT PICS AND WHY

[CaptTom]

As some of you may have read, I had linkage issues with my rebuilt U-Haul.

Seems there's several versions of the throttle linkage, all important measurements are good, but between some of the cable, return spring and cold start solenoid fit's, added with there's at least one really Cheeeeeezie linkage assembly out there you may get stuck with, some of us may end up with what appears to be a slop fest.

First a few photo's 'splainin the problem visually:


Throttle cable and cold start solenoid riding all wrong on the throttle assembly

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Return spring riding ******* CSS, and CSS engaging the return spring lug

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Another view of CSS and return spring lug

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Here's what that POS linkage slop looks like "pre-installation" and had my doubts, but did it anyway. Thought it might be an easy mod, but all the bends are wrong in this style assembly for my set up:


See the big gap here:

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No big gap here, yet same part:

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Ya think that could be an issue? Well, I didn't like it so went on to r/r the top end. It's not so hard to do, just be gentle with the guts and don't lose a particular "hidden" part.

First off, thanks to both gandalf and diezelcrazee for their excellent instructions. Not that there's a lot to it, but, as some of you know, I want to know everything and why the watch works when all I need is the time.... in this case.... IP's are kind of assembled like watches, plenty of fine springs in them to pay attention to. Thanks again fella's, it was very helpful.

Since I have a whole bunch of photo's, including pics of caliper differences, this might take me a day or two to complete, and will be a multiple post in this thread. There will be some steps excluded for brevity, but are done so because it really is too obvious.

 

[CaptTom]

All the attachment stuff has been removed, so will start with my pump Nemesis- the FIPL controller:


This ****** has two 3/32 set screws in it, if the set screws are "set", you will bend the allen wrenches.

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C-clip and shaft removal. This has to be removed in order to get the cam off the throttle shaft. At the bottom end, there's a little rod that you cannot lose.

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This is the cam already loose showing the notch in the shaft it's mounted to. The fastener must come completely out or the cam will not come off.

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Now we're ready to remove the top of the IP.

BTW, hopefully you've already drained the IP of fuel, if not, you'll enjoy the bath when you pop the top.

Remove the three screws holding the top on, and gently, by hand, wiggle the top off of the lower. The shut off solenoid is under the top, it has a large hook like device on it that you don't want to catch on anything. That hook is a control arm that opens and closes the fuel supply to the IP.

 

[CaptTom]

There's a guide that must be removed in order to get the throttle block out of the lower end. It may have a white or red cap over it, but screws into the IP distribution end of the pump on the outside. There's a lock nut on it. If your IP is already tuned, you will have to note the thread count or measure the mounting depth, it is an adjustment location for proper operation, so pay attention.

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This is the guide from inside. Notice the little bar spring, it "MUST" ride on the top of the guide upon reinstallation. Don't worry, goes in real easy. As you pull the guide completely out, make sure there isn't a little spring, that looks exactly like a pen spring, that falls out. It can fall deeper into the guts if you're not careful. That little spring installs inside the fuel block assembly.

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See that flat block? That is what you need to get off in order to pull the throttle assy. out of the IP. Also note, there is a spring end that installs into the middle of that block, it's a bit of a challenge to get out.

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The throttle assy shaft has a notch cut into it almost exactly the size of that block to fit into. At this point, you can start to pull the throttle assembly out.....sloooooowly. The block will end up riding lightly on the other spring assy, you don't have to take apart, and the block assy will start to twist slightly as you "throttle up" the shaft. Fiddle with it a little, but it will come out fairly easily.

Here is what the block assy looks like on the bench:

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Now you can finish removing the throttle assy. Remember not to bind the shaft as you're removing it. You don't want to mar either the bearing surface or bend the shaft if you find a different application suitable for it.

Gotta go, customers calling.