injector knock after turbo install?

bullfisher

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Howdy folks,
So I recently installed remaned injectors and return lines, which had my truck running great for a couple days while waiting for some turbo parts to arrive. After installing the turbo kit (sidewinder with a to4b) I took it for a test run, which was great, ran fine with good boost and low egt (1/4 turn on the pump). But today I ran it down to the exhaust shop to have them finish up my piping. At mid rpm range I discovered a horrible knock, and a skipping idle with blue to white smoke. I could almost time the smoke color based on which cylinder was firing at idle. I havnt touched the timing. I'm hoping its just fuel related. What series of tests should I start with for diagnosis?
 

BioFarmer93

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Sounds like one of those re-man'd injectors is popping early (knock) and one or more of them is popping late (white smoke). Did you have them pop-matched? At idle crack injector lines one at a time to find the culprit(s). That being said, I don't know why the symptoms wouldn't have shown up immediately..
 

79jasper

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Could very well also be lack of fuel or sucking air.
See if any fuel is leaking from the fuel adjustment plate.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
 

icanfixall

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Generally its felt if you did not buy the rebuilt injectors from Mel or Russ then you bought problems. Mel has said it so many times. It costs more time and money to rebuild an injector then it does to buy new. Just buying rebuild parts will cost way more than a new injector. So ask yourself this.. How can a company rebuild and injector and sell it for half the cost of as new injector.... They cna't but they sure attempt to make you feel they can. Heres what it takes to just change the pop pressure on ANY idi injector. First you pop test it and record the numbers. Now you take it apart and add or remove shims. Each 1 thousands shim is worth 50 lbs. Now you assemble it and retest it only to find it magically is more or less than what you wanted so you take it apart and add or remove shims. Now if you are really lucky you got it correct this time. Lucky you there are only 7 more just like this. Its a labor intensive job to say the least. But some have more time than money do have at it. I have shimmed injectors and pop tested till I was worn out. It was not a one day job either.
 

bullfisher

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Cracked all the injector lines today while it was running and had equal idle change from each, so think I can rule them out. No leaks coming from IP or fuel screw cover. The knock is really noticable at mid to high rpm range. Is there a possibilty its just a timing issue? Is retiming a must when turning up the pump and installing a turbo?
 

riotwarrior

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Howdy folks,
So I recently installed remaned injectors and return lines, which had my truck running great for a couple days while waiting for some turbo parts to arrive. After installing the turbo kit (sidewinder with a to4b) I took it for a test run, which was great, ran fine with good boost and low egt (1/4 turn on the pump). But today I ran it down to the exhaust shop to have them finish up my piping. At mid rpm range I discovered a horrible knock, and a skipping idle with blue to white smoke. I could almost time the smoke color based on which cylinder was firing at idle. I havnt touched the timing. I'm hoping its just fuel related. What series of tests should I start with for diagnosis?

Cracked all the injector lines today while it was running and had equal idle change from each, so think I can rule them out. No leaks coming from IP or fuel screw cover. The knock is really noticable at mid to high rpm range. Is there a possibilty its just a timing issue? Is retiming a must when turning up the pump and installing a turbo?
I'd suggest putting detailed info into your signature for one thing...very helpful for us to refer to when answering questions so we don't ask questions to formulate answers to your questions.

So....

For starters,

WHAT YEAR of truck?

WHAT ENGINE? 7.3 or 6.9?

WHAT transmission as well?

HOW many miles on the engine?

Has the IP been replaced or rebuilt to your knowledge?

What is compression of engine like, or has it even been checked?

What fuel are you using?

Has engine been properly timed? If not why not?

How do you know that the pump was not PREVIOUSLY turned up?

Do you have a boost and Pyro and if so what boost are you getting and what EGT?

These are just a few of the things that matter and can help provide accurate responses to your querries...

Just saying help us out so we can help you out...

BTW what about a video of the sound and when it happens? That may be the best as well as the info requested.

JM2CW
 

bullfisher

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Good questions riotwarrior.
Its an 86' f350 crewcab. 6.9/t19 3.55 gears.
72k original miles, bought from the original owner.
The truck is almost factory perfect, the timing and fuel screw havnt been touched to my knowledge.
All I've been able to spike out of the gauges so far is 9psi and 850 degrees, and that was pulling a long nasty grade.
I'll try to post a vid if can figure it out.
 

C_Luft

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My vote would be injectors, but accurate diesel has a fair reputation, it would be easy to throw injectors into one of those parts cleaners that scratches the surface of parts,( makes them look new). You could also pour a quart of transmission fluid or cetane booster in both of the tanks at every fill up and then pull your fuel filter (replace unless it's new) fill your filter with half seafoam and half transmission fluid, that's what I do.

Another place to buy injectors is R&D idi performance near Seattle, I have a set of d-codes from him and there great no knocking, I have never seen smoke when driving, only when I had a bad glow plug and I get pretty good milage for driving around town.

We want more truck pics or at least I do.
 

bullfisher

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Well tonight I checked the fuel filter, which was recently changed, but just wanted to check for gunk anyway, it was clear. ran it with a dose of diesel kleen just to see if I could get any change in the sound of the knock. It did run better but no knock change and still a studder at idle. I checked for the possibility of an exhaust leak somewhere but could not see any. Could a small exhuast knock even cause a miss/studder at idle? I see no signs of a head gasket leak in oil or coolant. I don't have access to a timing setup at the moment so I'm just trying to narrow it down for now. Compression and oil pressure are good though I don't have a pressure tester. I also added some lucas oil to see if i could get any improvement. Anything else I should check before I track down a timing light?
 

Hydro-idi

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Wow what a rig you got there. Very Nice! Sounds to me like a problem with the reman injectors you installed. Been there, done that. Had same symptoms you are having with a set of reman crap injectors. Really noticed symptoms when I took truck up in the mountains. Belched black smoke and also had a knock and a miss. This all happened a week after install. One had a horrible spray pattern and the other leaked so bad that it coked up the pre-cup and had to use a chisel to break it up. Horrible experience. Luckily the same company had a new set of delphi BB code injectors and had them refund my $ and send me the new ones ASAP.
 

Agnem

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Truth of the matter is, any injector can go bad. Reman... new... whatever. Some are just more apt to do it based on what has been done with them. Your turning up the pump probably pushed one of them harder than it had seen in your previous driving, and you found a weak one. Problem is, it is only going to do it at speed, so you are going to need one more injector, and you will have to cycle your "known good test injector" through each hole until you can find the problem. Get yourself some new injector O-rings, because by the time you are done snapping caps on an off, you will need them. Fun stuff.
 

bullfisher

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Well crap, I thought I'd eliminated the injectors. Now I'm convinced to go back through them.
I was getting ready to peek under the valve covers.
 

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