How long to swap out injectors

fields_mj

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Can anyone give me an estimate of how long it should take to install a new set of fuel injectors, and swap out the injector lines for cylinders 1 and 2? I do most of my own maintenance on my truck, but I've always stayed away from the fuel system because it has normally involved an issue with the IP and I don't have a way to set the timing. This time my IP is less than a year old, so I shouldn't need to do anything with the timing so long as I mark where it's at to begin with.

FWIW, I'm basically working in my gravel driveway. I need to know if this is a 4 hour job (after work during the week), an all day job (Saturday), or if it's likely to take me more than a day.

Thanks,
Mark
 

riotwarrior

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First timer.....no issues ....4 hrs...add in any of the folllwing.. sticky injector ...nazty dirty bores....nicked seal face in bore..longer....

Remove the ip from tkming gear cover do not remove the gear cover....

Good luck.
 

crash-harris

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I'd you're just swapping injectors and replacing 2 lines then you don't need to remove the IP. Being the first time your doing it, be kind to yourself and so it when you hand the whole day. You may find that the bores are stupid dirty and/or have to spend time picking out copper washers that have been caked in with carbon. If the ant seats are knicked, truck will be down until those surfaces are flat again. You'll probably want to take most, if not all of the injector lines off (can't really get to the bottom ones until the top ones are out of the way), so label your lines to be safe and save frustration later. Go slow and be/make it easy on yourself.

Timing may change some with newer injectors. If your IP is less thrash a year old, but your injectors are many years old, timing well change some. icanfixall rents out timing meters and is a great guy to deal with if you need to retime it afterwards. I'll be sending one of his meters back to him in the morning.
 

IDIoit

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as a beginner, i would suggest you do it on a weekend.
nothing like learning in the dark and stressin how your gonna get to work the next day.
easily a 4 hour job for the first timer. dont rush, take your time, and have plenty of beer.
 

fields_mj

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Thanks for all the info. This is about what I was anticipating, but wanted to make sure just incase there was something I wasn't thinking about. The injectors were last changed in 2012, around 210K. I've got 272K on the clock now, so it's a little early for them. However, I used blended fuel, and that means running WMO in the winter time. I have to replace 1 of the injector lines, so I figure it's a good time to swap them out one more time.

Thanks for the suggestion on numbering everything. That's exactly the type of thing that I wouldn't have remembered to do until I had it all apart.

Have to pass on the beer though. I never knew when to stop so I quite before it cost me more than it was worth.
 

fields_mj

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Forgot to ask, but is there a good way to clean all the gunk (grease, oil, dirt, leaves, twiggs, grass clippings, ect) from around the injectors? I'm thinking the air compressor, a few cans of engine degreaser, a few more of break cleaner, and the garden hose.
 

IDIoit

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i used a 1/4" brake line with a rag, shoved into the end of the vacuum.
it got most of it
 

rwk

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Might be a good time for glow plugs also, much easier with lines off, yes, compressed air, cleaners, vac. lots of stuff gets down in them holes, clean entire top of engine, we took hood off also, need two people for this, I think this the most gain for least work, lets a lot of light in also.
 

rwk

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Oh, BTW we took pump off with the lines on, but we were replacing pump also,may have to modify a wrench for pump removal. Clean all the bores best you can before pulling injectors and glow plugs, that way no junk falls in when you pull them out.
 

crash-harris

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I used the air compressor to clean mine. If you go that route, do it before pulling things and blow air from back to front. I did it from front to back and found that everything just clogs up under the GP controller and had to dig it out by hand.
 

icanfixall

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The number 2 injector hard line is located at the bottom of the injection pump distribution head. Really one one way to reach that line nut and you need the special cut down 5/8 socket for that. If that special socket is not in your toolbox you probably should remove the injection pump to replace the line. Now if removing the pump is your choice please make a center punch mark in the joint line between the pump and the gear housing. Make it anyplace easy to reach. With this mark you have a "witness mark" that you can line up the removed pump with and it guarantees you will remain timed the same. This is the same advice I explain to any member that rents my meters. I suggest they time their engines to several different degrees of timing making a center punch mark each time they choose a different setting. Usually 8.5.. then 9.0 and 9.5 or slightly above that. Now you can adjust your timing and not use a meter for many thousands of miles. You can even remove the pump and reinstall it knowing the timing is correct. This idea id well proven but it ONLY WORKS WITH THIS PUMP....No other injection pump is timed internally the same to these marks mean nothing to another injection pump.
As already posted, figure 4 hours just in case something pops up and tries to soil your fun day of injector change.
 

fields_mj

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The number 2 injector hard line is located at the bottom of the injection pump distribution head. Really one one way to reach that line nut and you need the special cut down 5/8 socket for that. If that special socket is not in your toolbox you probably should remove the injection pump to replace the line.

Can this special socket be easily made from a not-so-special 5/8" socket? Even though I probably won't ever use it again, I'd be willing to buy and hack up a socket to keep from removing the IP. In my mind, the less I have to take off, the less the risk of something going wrong. At my last job, I had my own mill and lathe, so it was pretty easy to transform standard tools into something custom. Now I'm limited to various types of grinding equipment that I have at home, or bringing it in and finding time on a machine after hours.
 

riotwarrior

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Can this special socket be easily made from a not-so-special 5/8" socket? Even though I probably won't ever use it again, I'd be willing to buy and hack up a socket to keep from removing the IP. In my mind, the less I have to take off, the less the risk of something going wrong. At my last job, I had my own mill and lathe, so it was pretty easy to transform standard tools into something custom. Now I'm limited to various types of grinding equipment that I have at home, or bringing it in and finding time on a machine after hours.

An angle grinder would suffice to create said tool. Deep socket required nothed similar to flare nut wrench...then a notch 90 degree off that ...someone here has a pic of correct socket...
 

Black dawg

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Can this special socket be easily made from a not-so-special 5/8" socket? Even though I probably won't ever use it again, I'd be willing to buy and hack up a socket to keep from removing the IP. In my mind, the less I have to take off, the less the risk of something going wrong. At my last job, I had my own mill and lathe, so it was pretty easy to transform standard tools into something custom. Now I'm limited to various types of grinding equipment that I have at home, or bringing it in and finding time on a machine after hours.

No reason to remove the pump. If you look at the lines, by removing a clamp on each side, you will have two groups of three lines, and then the bottom two lines. Never needed any special wrench, and it is pretty easy this way.
 

icanfixall

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No reason to remove the pump. If you look at the lines, by removing a clamp on each side, you will have two groups of three lines, and then the bottom two lines. Never needed any special wrench, and it is pretty easy this way.

Good suggestion. Here is what the socket looks like. This is NOT the socket for our engines either but you get an idea anyway.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schley-Prod...:g:GggAAOxyY3ZRy4wG&item=190862448702&vxp=mtr
You can go to ebay and do a search under the injection line socket. I purchased one a few months back for our engines. Have not tried using it yet.
 

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