BigRigTech
Diesel junky
There are 3 Ford dealers in my city, same price from all 3.
Hit a bump... Heard a bang.. With pics
- Thread starter EMD_DRIVER
- Start date
Diesel_brad
Dunce
wow. Maybe my dealer is just nice to me
EMD_DRIVER
Say what?!?!
It took a couple of days, but here are the pics I promised..
First pic is of the kit that I got. 8 small grade 8 bolts, nuts and flat washers. 4 long grade 8 bolts, nuts and flat washers. As well as the new shackle and J bracket.
It took a while for me to grind the old bolts and rivets out of the old assembly. You'll only need to grind/cut the bolt that goes through the spring itself. I ground the heads off the rivets, until the rivets were flush with what was left of the old bracket. I then used a small pry bar, to pop the pieces of old bracket off the rivets. I then ground down the rivets, until they were flush with the frame rail. A few whacks with a hammer, was enough to start them out through the frame. A punch was then used, to drive them out of the frame.
I put the bracket and shackle together, but left the nut loose on the bolt. I then put the other long bolt through the end of the spring. Again, I left the nut loose on the bolt. I had my jack under the center of the bumper and used it to line up the bracket, with the holes in the frame. I put the four bolts through the bracket and frame. In the railroad tradition of doing things, I put the bottom bolts in from the inside frame. The top bolts went in from the outside, through the bracket first. It wasn't until I had all 6 bolts in, that I tightened any of them down.
You'll also notice the hole I drilled, through the bottom of the J bracket. It is there to allow water to drain out. A shot of rattle can black, was used to help keep it from rusting as quick.
One last view of the assembly in place.. I used the needle nose vise grips to get the bolts and nuts, to keep from having to remove the skid plate, or fuel tank. It worked very well!
I was able to use combination wrenches, to tighten all the bolts. EVen got to the ones inside the frame fairly easily.
First pic is of the kit that I got. 8 small grade 8 bolts, nuts and flat washers. 4 long grade 8 bolts, nuts and flat washers. As well as the new shackle and J bracket.
You must be registered for see images attach
It took a while for me to grind the old bolts and rivets out of the old assembly. You'll only need to grind/cut the bolt that goes through the spring itself. I ground the heads off the rivets, until the rivets were flush with what was left of the old bracket. I then used a small pry bar, to pop the pieces of old bracket off the rivets. I then ground down the rivets, until they were flush with the frame rail. A few whacks with a hammer, was enough to start them out through the frame. A punch was then used, to drive them out of the frame.
You must be registered for see images attach
I put the bracket and shackle together, but left the nut loose on the bolt. I then put the other long bolt through the end of the spring. Again, I left the nut loose on the bolt. I had my jack under the center of the bumper and used it to line up the bracket, with the holes in the frame. I put the four bolts through the bracket and frame. In the railroad tradition of doing things, I put the bottom bolts in from the inside frame. The top bolts went in from the outside, through the bracket first. It wasn't until I had all 6 bolts in, that I tightened any of them down.
You must be registered for see images attach
You'll also notice the hole I drilled, through the bottom of the J bracket. It is there to allow water to drain out. A shot of rattle can black, was used to help keep it from rusting as quick.
One last view of the assembly in place.. I used the needle nose vise grips to get the bolts and nuts, to keep from having to remove the skid plate, or fuel tank. It worked very well!
You must be registered for see images attach
I was able to use combination wrenches, to tighten all the bolts. EVen got to the ones inside the frame fairly easily.
EMD_DRIVER
Say what?!?!
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