help me design my new electrical system
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
It's already setup that way from the factory. You need to study the wiring diagrams, the magic is all done in the turnsignal switch. Just copy the wiring you already have. The factory rear dual filament bulbs already do have a low wattage filament for the taillights, and a higher wattage filament for the brake/turn function.
Best to leave it combined on the truck like the factory had it, that will make your trailer wiring much easier.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Yeah, I looked up pictures of '06 trucks with pickup beds and it looks like they still use the combined STT lights setup. Meaning the '06 column and its respective turn signal switch will be set up for those, which makes his job as easy as connecting one end of the wires to the switch and the other to the lamps in the back. Obviously gonna need the '06 wiring diagram for that tho.
That said I personally do like separate rear lamps, but not how most tractor-trailers have them on our side of the big puddle - euro style is better as their blinky orange light can mean only one thing, while our blinky red ones can be open to interpretation by the moron drafting you. And since most morons these days are great at multitasking with PDAs and smart phones and God knows what else... Yeah, red for running and brakes, orange (preferably with an arrow) for turns, and a big bumper for when none of those are paid due attention to
Yeah, I looked up pictures of '06 trucks with pickup beds and it looks like they still use the combined STT lights setup. Meaning the '06 column and its respective turn signal switch will be set up for those, which makes his job as easy as connecting one end of the wires to the switch and the other to the lamps in the back. Obviously gonna need the '06 wiring diagram for that tho.
That said I personally do like separate rear lamps, but not how most tractor-trailers have them on our side of the big puddle - euro style is better as their blinky orange light can mean only one thing, while our blinky red ones can be open to interpretation by the moron drafting you. And since most morons these days are great at multitasking with PDAs and smart phones and God knows what else... Yeah, red for running and brakes, orange (preferably with an arrow) for turns, and a big bumper for when none of those are paid due attention to
Like you said before, the only easy way to do that would be to run the front turns and the rear turns on the same wire. If a electronic flasher was used along with LED Orange bulbs, I think the switch would handle it no problem. And he still could use the stock rear wiring from the switch, run it back and use for the trailer plug only. That would be a good clean solution I think.
someone showed me this website
http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html
the 165 adn 185$ kits come with horn relay, turn and hard flashers. But no relays for headlights or aux lights.
I assume it wouldnt be a big issue to just run the wire to a relay for the headlights. But im concerned with this i wont be able to have things wired up the way i showed earlier. Like the fuel pump to be manually armed only with the ignition on.
Is this already prewired so when ignition is on other circuits turn on as well?
http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html
the 165 adn 185$ kits come with horn relay, turn and hard flashers. But no relays for headlights or aux lights.
I assume it wouldnt be a big issue to just run the wire to a relay for the headlights. But im concerned with this i wont be able to have things wired up the way i showed earlier. Like the fuel pump to be manually armed only with the ignition on.
Is this already prewired so when ignition is on other circuits turn on as well?
wow, just called EZ wire, this IS the best way to go. everythign is bussed that is normally on with ignition, fuel pump, radio, gauges. this is great. literaly as plug and play as a custom hardness you can get.
the only difference between mini 20 and ez21 is the dsize of the fuse panel. Ill probably be goign with the mini one as it will take up less space underhood. Im going to run the fuse box into a weather proof panel withsa bulkhead connector on it.
the only difference between mini 20 and ez21 is the dsize of the fuse panel. Ill probably be goign with the mini one as it will take up less space underhood. Im going to run the fuse box into a weather proof panel withsa bulkhead connector on it.
I looked these up after I saw your post up there. That is probably the simplest way to go about it. Couple rolls of wire loom and some tape and you would be pretty much good to go. I would probably still consider connectorizing the ends so if you need to pull the bed or something, you don't have to undo all the end connections and fish them through. Once you get it laid out and maybe even connected, pull some slack somewhere along the frame rail and maybe insert a weather pack connector to make your own harness essentially. Just a thought.
yessir, and im still doing a bulkhead connector at the firewall for these. Figure if i have a gantry crane at my disposal and i need to do turbo work, ill jsu tbe lifting the cab instead of fighting with everyhtign else. coupel electrical connectors, steering shaft, booster, clutch, couple heater hoses to the box. I took my old stuff off in 30 mins, and that wasnt meant to be pulled off quick.
the end is near for the cab at least. Today i shoudl have the sheet metal done up top. minus the rear foot well area. Then mock up the front seat tomorrow to get my mounts tacked into place, do the same for the rear, and mark where the belts go, weld the 1/4" plate in for that. So probably thursday i can FINALLY flip the cab on its back and start sealing and painting. Working on my mock turbo mani tonight as well, glued the fabbed short radius bends for one side, going to make other side and the 2" ones tonight. Its rainging a bit so might not even get to the cab.
next major step after the cab is getting the motor mount situation figured out. I still might go with teh Bushed DOM mounts from Ruff stuff if these prove to be too much a pain for access. 4" long 9/16 grade 8 bolts. Thats pretty serious.
next major step after the cab is getting the motor mount situation figured out. I still might go with teh Bushed DOM mounts from Ruff stuff if these prove to be too much a pain for access. 4" long 9/16 grade 8 bolts. Thats pretty serious.
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