HELP!!!!!! CRANK NO START HAPPENED ALL OF A SUDDEN!

autotech84601

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I pulled the truck out into the road of our neighborhood and shut it off to transfer a shell from one truck to another. After starting up I let the clutch out to move and there was a slight jerk and it shut off. Now it will crank and crank but will not start. Any ideas of what I should be looking for here? I have no idea where to start. Thanks for all the help
 

79jasper

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Try cool water on the injector pump.
Otherwise check to make sure the IP is getting power.

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autotech84601

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Where does it get its power from? Should it have power with the key on and cranking or key on?
 

79jasper

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Key on and cranking. It's the plug on top of the ip, closest to the front of the engine, iirc.

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autotech84601

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I have voltage at the three plugs on top of the injection pump and show 11.2 volts. Any other ideas?
 

hotshotidi

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did you check if your getting fuel? did you check your clutch/ neutral switch
 

autotech84601

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My clutch switch won't let it crank if not pushed in all of the way.... As far as checking fuel, should I check at the fuel pump outlet or at an injector?
 

mjs2011

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Check at am injector, if there's nothing there, work backward to the filter head and so on.
 

autotech84601

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Ok, so I checked the fuel filter which is a spin on and found the filter was almost empty. So I had someone crank over the engine while I held a glass jar underneath the filter threads. I found that fuel was being pumped into the jar, don't know how much volume to look for though. I replaced the spin on with another spin on, filling full of fuel first and letting the filter sit overnight before installing. I cracked open the fuel lines at the injectors and let sit for a couple days as I ran out of time. Just went out and cranked it over and still no start. I am getting fuel to the injectors, like I said I just don't know how much to look for. My question is, is that the best way to bleed the system, or is there another way I don't know about. I have repeatedly cranked over with the injector lines loosened but still no start. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.
 

79jasper

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Crank it with the injector lines tight, hold the pedal down, then Crack them. You'll hear the air escape.
Should've filled the jar within maybe 30 seconds. (Depending on size of said jar. I have a Normal mason jar in my head)

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autotech84601

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Ok.... So I crank over then crack each line after cranking. How long should this take? What kind of starting intervals will this starter hold up to?
 

79jasper

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Depends on the life of your starter.
I've cranked some for a long time with short breaks, in a pinch.
But I would say 10 or so second cranks and let it cool for at least a minute.
Keep doing it until the injectors quit foaming when you Crack them.
Usually about a half a turn is good.
Also I've seen some that still need a initial ether start when bleeding. Then they're fine after that.

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autotech84601

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Is there a reason the spin on fuel filter might have emptied? My next question would be have you ever seen a mechanical pump that did not push enough fuel that it did not or could not feed the injection pump? How would I know the injection pump is pressurizing the fuel instead of just letting fuel go by to each injector? Since the truck just died all of a sudden while trying to move is it possible to have an injection pump that just went south? What could I check and how to be able to determine this? Just trying to cover my bases before I burn out a starter because I needed an injection pump.....
 

gandalf

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A previous poster suggested that you pour some cool , not cold, water over the IP. Have you done that? If that works, if the engine will start after the cool water, then you have a rapidly dieing IP.

Verify again that the IP is receiving power. Ignition on, doesn't matter whether you're cranking or not, so no cranking, check the forwardmost spade connector on top of the IP. That's the connecter on top of the IP closest to the front of the truck. If there is no power there, the engine will neither start nor run.

The fuel pump might be dead. Check somewhere that you're getting fuel to the IP. Depress the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing. The schrader valve looks just like the air valve on a tire. Depress the schrader while somebody cranks. You should get fuel flowing out, making a mess for you. If you have no schrader valve, then disconnect a hard line, either between the fuel filter and the IP, or the one going into the fuel filter. When you crank you should get a fuel flow. If you get no fuel flow, then take a serious look at the lift pump, the fuel pump.

I'm assuming that you have a stock lift pump, not an electric. The lift pump has a rubber diaphragm which will occasionally rupture. If that ruptures you'll have fuel going into your crankcase. Neither you nor the engine will be happy. Check you oil level and smell the oil if you can.

I've left out perhaps the most important thing, the first thing to check. How much fuel is in the tank you're drawing from? If the gauge (be aware that these trucks have notoriously bad fuel gauges) says there is only a quarter tank of fuel, then add five gallons to that tank. The in-tank fuel pickup may have broken. That happens more than we care to talk about. When the fuel pickup breaks off, it starts sucking air at 1/4 tank. Check your fuel level. IF this is the problem, you're going to have to bleed the air out of your fuel system.

Report back if you continue having a problem.
 

gwh98926

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As the previous poster said
"Verify again that the IP is receiving power. Ignition on, doesn't matter whether you're cranking or not, so no cranking, check the forwardmost spade connector on top of the IP. That's the connecter on top of the IP closest to the front of the truck. If there is no power there, the engine will neither start nor run. "
It can still have power to the fuel shut off but if the solenoid is dead it wont get fuel, turn key on and remove the spade connector and try to hear it click when you plug it back in and remove it
 

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