Had pump changed truck still junk.

firehawk

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Sorry to hear your problems, but if you can't get an idi to run properly, I don't see how you will pull off a conversion. It really sounds like a timing problem which is very easy to check with the correct equipment.
 

CaptTom

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Sorry to see the engine get blamed for a bad install. How much you want for the IDI?
 

sle2115

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Your mechanic ought to love you, gets paid to wrongly install an IP, now to replace an engine...I'm still wondering about not having time to get a known good ip rebuild! Mechanic must be able to work miracles to put an EFI 460 in there quicker than fixing an faulty or mis-installed IP. Don't forget to clean the tanks!
 

Donsbad89

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He won't be installing the engine. I do all my own work and I already did the swap once on my 88 4x4. This was the first time I can remember that one of my vehicles went to a mechanic. He is supposed to be a diesel mechanic and said changing the pumps and timing the truck would only be $250 labor. It was cheap enough for me to not even bother. I'll most likely tinker with the truck some today just so I can say I looked at it myself. The truck was a low mile truck I inherited when my grandfather passed so it won't be going anywhere. I've jut never been impressed with the idi. The 88 460 truck is 4x4 auto the 92 idi is 4x2 stick and the 88 can walk the dog on the 92 in every way except towing fuel mileage, which even that is a wash with the cost of 87 octane and the cost of diesel. What's a 102k mile idi and zf Trans worth?
 

gandalf

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... changing the pumps and timing the truck would only be $250 labor. It was cheap enough for me to not even bother. ...

There's a great difference between cheap and inexpensive. You got 'cheap' because the result doesn't work. 'Inexpensive' would have resulted in a good running truck. As I see it, you made two mistakes which could have been easily avoided. You bought a pump from an unknown rebuilder, and you had it installed by a less than knowledgeable mechanic. The result of those two mistakes is that you got what you paid for.

Please keep us informed on your plans to replace the diesel with a 460.
 

Donsbad89

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I thought the ip was supposed to be line to line? Mines about a 1/16 off. If you're looking down on the front of
The motor the case line closest to you the ip is to the right about a 1/16?
 

gandalf

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I thought the ip was supposed to be line to line? Mines about a 1/16 off. If you're looking down on the front of
The motor the case line closest to you the ip is to the right about a 1/16?

Those timing marks are used for the original IP installation only. Ford timed the IP at the factory, and marked it. As soon as you change out the IP, or even rebuild it and re-install it, those marks become a "best guess" used only to get the engine running. They're 'sort of' accurate, close enough that the engine will probable start, but you still need to have it timed to have it run properly. On top of that, if the mechanic took the gear tower off, and let it move a tooth when replacing it, then the timing will be way off. In that case, all bets are off, and you've got a significant amount of work ahead of you.
 

OLDBULL8

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Something is ***** HERE.
He does all his own work.

No info as to why the IP was changed in the first place.
Yet had an unknown mechanic replace an unknown IP.
Won't go back to the mechanic for info on how he replaced it, or how he timed it.
No time to even experment changing the timing to see if that fixes it.
Got time to swap engines. ***.
A diesel to a gasser in 2 days, come on tell me more BS.

Truck doesn't smoke but shakes terrible at idle. Puffs a couple times during first cold start (white smoke). Has much less power than it did before the pump change
That tell's me the timing is more than likely way off. SIMPLE FIX, maybe.
I'd be ashamed to even post an issue like that without doing something about it.
 

OLDBULL8

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Read my hot start trouble thread. Everyone on this very board said replace the ip
Well I did search for your other thread, found it, now I know you have a 92 IDI.
Once you start a thread on an issue, it's always nice to continue it.
Oh, and when I opened my eyes, found out it wasn't a string on a tea bag.
 

Donsbad89

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Well I did search for your other thread, found it, now I know you have a 92 IDI.
Once you start a thread on an issue, it's always nice to continue it.
Oh, and when I opened my eyes, found out it wasn't a string on a tea bag.

Lol, glad to see you do have a sense of humor! Yeah, it's the same 92 7.3. I've had it ever since my grandfather passed. I've spent most of the day correcting what appeared to be the most negligent mechanic job I think I've ever seen. Truck is running pretty well now but it's still down on power, boost lag is worse than before and it still has a shake at idle but not as drastic. I'm still leaning towards timing and maybe an air intrusion. Does anyone have a link to somewhere I can order a diesel timing light? Also, the pump fuel screw is still the base setting from out of the box. How much will turning it up to the plus two flats I ran on the old pump help the power and current boost lag?
 

Wyreth

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Depending on what the rebuilder did in calibrating that pump, it could very well need to be turned up. HOWEVER, turning up the fuel is a fast way to burn down your engine. The only safe way to know, is to have a pyrometer installed. If you have one already, awesome. Depending on where the probe is mounted, how hot your Exhost gas gets while the truck is under load tells you how much fuel you can add.

However, if it's timed right, and you're not seeing any smoke when you romp on it. You can likely get away with adding some.
Personally I would time it first, then add a pyro (if needed) then turn up fuel.

From personal experience, timing can change a trucks whole attitude. As for timing adapters, Icanfixall runs a meter rental program. Unless you plan on having one of these idi's around for a while, that's a much better option than spending $200ish on a ferret adapter for your timing light.
 

Donsbad89

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I'll be keeping this truck forever. I'd spend the $200 after what im already out for previous "install and timing". As far as a pyrometers I have one it was part of the sidewinder kit. After being floored thru all the gears til the end of fourth I can't get egt over 600* and not a lick of smoke. I'll time it first then turn up the fuel. Have to clear up the boost lag and loss of power if I ever want to haul my race car enclosed again.
 

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