Glow plug power. Please help me do this right once and for all.

Rot Box

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Starting from scratch--again. I want to make it safe and reliable. Awhile back I moved my controller/solenoid out from under the turbo and placed it on the passenger side inner fender. I completely did away with the two yellow 10ga. wires and replaced them with one 4ga. cable. I have modified the controller for push button and that part of it works great.

What is the best way to get power from the terminal on the resistor (where I'm pointing to in the first pic) to the harness ring terminal (brown wires) in the second pic? Can I use a 4ga cable here? Do I need a fusible link or fuse here or are the brown wires already a fusible link?

Thanks for any help!

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Rot Box

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Hope that makes sense. That ring terminal originally attached to the terminal/stud on the solenoid (the one I'm pointing to). Now it's too short to reach over to the fender. So I guess the question is should I cut the ring terminal off and extend both of the brown wires or should I splice those two wires to one larger (4ga) cable. Or does it even matter.

Where should all my fusible links be placed? I don't have one between the battery and the solenoid....

This sounds like wiring 101 I'm sure... sorry :frustrate
 

franklin2

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Since you got rid of the two original yellow wires, you do not have any protection in this circuit anymore. You really need to address that. The two yellow wires originally had a fusible link in each one.

You could put a large fuse inline with the 4 gauge wire. This would probably be best. You want the least amount of wiring exposed with no fuse. So you could come off the starter relay or the battery(wherever you routed the 4 gauge to) and run as short as distance as possible to a large fuse. It would probably need to be 250amps or in that neighborhood.

Once you put that fuse in, that's it, the rest of the circuit downstream from the fuse will be protected, including the brown wires.

To hook the brown wires up, you can use a 4 gauge also. It really doesn't matter since you are using a manual button, but a system modified like this would really give the original brain in the controller a fit. I personally would leave the large ring connector on the brown wires, and put another large ring connector on the end of the new 4 guage. I would then use a bolt and bolt them together, and then insulate the bolt with rubber tape. The reason I say this is for access when you are working on the engine. If you need to pull the valve cover, the head or even pull the engine, it's nice to be able to unplug or unbolt the wiring and get it out of the way so the mechanical work can continue.
 

franklin2

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I would say yes, that would work. And that nice little plastic box to house it in advertised below it looks good too.
 

Rot Box

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Thanks again everyone. I ended up cutting off the ring terminal and using two 10ga wires from the solenoid to the brown wires. Overall it turned out to be a pretty clean install using a factory style wire loom that I had lying around. I also routed it out and away from the turbo which should keep the heat off of it.

Now I need to get a fusible like/fuse/breaker before I regret it.
 

OLDBULL8

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A 250 Amp fuse or circuit breaker is a little high. The GP's pull ~196 amps for less than a second, then the Amps reduce to 135 for the duration of the cycle. If any short circuit would occure in your GP circuit the wiring would burn up before the fuse would blow. Ohm's Law.
You would be better off with a 150 Amp fuse. Look up the specs on fuses.


What is the best way to get power from the terminal on the resistor (where I'm pointing to in the first pic) to the harness ring terminal (brown wires) in the second pic? Can I use a 4ga cable here? Do I need a fusible link or fuse here or are the brown wires already a fusible link?

The brown wires going to the glow plugs are fusible link wires.
 
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OLDBULL8

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It is always best to disconnect the batteries grounds before working in the engine compartment.

Do you know a pair of batteries has almost an unlimited amount of power (Amps) for a short period of time, think 850 Amps to start a diesel, crank crank crank.
 
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