Ford guy looking at a Dodge

[Capt. REDBEARD]

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/2137978336.html

what do you all think about the above truck?
what should I be weary of?

I have been looking to get a Ford IDI but exactly what I am looking for is hard to find in my area.

I want:
350
manual transmission
crew cab

this truck not any of those things. but i want a utility bed, i can deal with and extended cab and I planned on doing the same suspension mods to what ever truck I end up with. I have not looked at any Dodge trucks b/c I don't know them - I will learn if I get one. But before I do -- can any of you school me on the truck in the above link.

How is the dodge slush box? as ****** as the ford?

seems like the IP is an issue with this generation dodge - that has been addressed in this truck
what about the electronics? I am a bit of a Luddite and that is why I was after a IDI - but if I can get something with lower miles that is not a ticking time bomb I would be up for that.

I plan on doing a 2+ year road trip with my wife. She is a traveling nurse and we would be basically living out of the truck/camper for 2 years. The IDI has the advantage of parts everywhere and cheap - and I can do almost all the work myself. I have a feeling that is not going to be the case with the truck above.

basically this truck caught my eye - but I don't know ***** about it - so here is my invitation for you to tell me what you think - and as far as I have been able to figure out in this world - every one loves to give their opinion.

 

[marblecrusher]

Well these trucks can be great trucks, the main problem with them is the factory lift pumps suck and commonly go out when they go out the injection pump is starved for fuel and lubrication and goes out as well, so now your out 500 for the lift pump and over $1000 for the injection pump, plus the injection pump is not an easy task on these things.

So what you do is get a FASS or Airdog aftermarket lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge. The thing that scares me about this truck is that there is no mention of an aftermarket lift pump or a fuel pressure gauge so if the lift pump is inop the injection pump could already be on its last leg again.

On a good note the front end has been redone which is about the only other common thing that needs to be redone on these things.

Now there is a trick on the 00-02 trucks for getting the codes to flash on the odometer screen. Insert your ignition key. Turn it to the OFF position. Now turn it ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON in less than 5 seconds. Leave it in the on position. In the odometer display it should start to display codes. The main code you are looking for is a P0216 which is the code telling you that the injection pump is gone out or darn near it. You can also post up any other codes that come up i have a OBD codes list for these trucks.

Sorry for the long winded explanation just tryin to give you as much info as possible. Let me know what you find out and if you need any more info.

-Jordan-

 

[argve]

Jordan is right on - the injection pumps on those trucks are a weak point and an upgraded fuel delivery system is the key.

But for the most part a guy can get parts for them but then again not much really goes out and they really don't require a lot of maintenance and what they do need a guy can do himself just like on an IDI.

I have swapped both injections pumps (99 Cummins and IDI's) and I think both are just about same difficulty level and while the Cummins one takes a little longer it's really not that much longer - takes about 2 hours - or that is what it took me of actual work time - we were jacking jaw and enjoying a few beers while doing it. I can do an injection pump on an IDI in about an hour with stops to enjoy a beer.

 

[marblecrusher]

yea i agree difficulty wise they are about the same, but getting to the one on the Cummins is a little more difficult to me, its just right there on the IDI ha ha.

-Jordan-

 

[dank1945]

Hi,
I've had both, a 94 IDI that was a big pit where I would throw $100 dollar bills into every time we came back from a trip, and now I own an 01 24 valve Dodge. I love the Dodge, it has 350,000 kms, and solid as a rock, economical, much more powerful than the 7.3L Ford. Pre-emptily I replaced the lift pump, I've had absolutely no problems since I bought it last year: I'll never look back.
Cheers,
Dan

 

[Capt. REDBEARD]

i did post in the dodge forum - and then mention a ford - so I should have expected the answers I was going to get......

but thank you all for your input.

some light reading and I feel like I am a little more caught up on my dodges.
how are the automatic transmissions on the dodges - any years in particular to advoid?

 

[marblecrusher]

well good thing u mention that, the auto trannys in the dodge's suck. If ur planning on pulling a camper alot with it, the auto tranny will need to be built because the stock ones dont hold up well. The 5 and 6spds are great though, the only issue with the 5 speed is the 5th gear nut backing off. Basically the nut can back off of your 5th gear causing you to lose 5th gear and possibly coming all the way off and trashing the transmission. Here's a write up http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm

-Jordan-

 

[argve]

The nut is captured on the shaft and won't go anywhere. It's not gonna cause problems but if you never ever fix it - then it can cause problems because that nut also sets up the slack in the main shaft. Not much but enough that many many miles (I'm talking 10k or better) will result in excess gear wear but going a few thousand after the nut backs off ain't really gonna hurt her.

You can rebuild the manual tranny in about 4 hours start to finish with simple hand tools just have a good set of snap ring pliers and some mechanical knowledge to put things back how you found them (in correct order). The only syncro that you have worry about getting the correct direction is the one for 5th gear as that syncro only controls the engagment of 5th where all the rest do double duty. so just pay attention to the way it come off - if you get it backward she won't want slip into gear which you can test on the bench - that is how I found out I put it on backwards. because she wouldn't pop into 5th as we were turning the input shaft with a pipe wrench.

But the auto's just plan on rebuilding it and it's not cheap... you can rebuild the manual for 500 clams with new main shaft, new 5th gears (both the counter gear and 5th), new nut for 5th and fluid. Typically the syncros if they look good just run them.

 

[argve]

The nut is captured on the shaft and won't go anywhere. It's not gonna cause problems but if you never ever fix it - then it can cause problems because that nut also sets up the slack in the main shaft. Not much but enough that many many miles (I'm talking 10k or better) will result in excess gear wear but going a few thousand after the nut backs off ain't really gonna hurt her.

You can rebuild the manual tranny in about 4 hours start to finish with simple hand tools just have a good set of snap ring pliers and some mechanical knowledge to put things back how you found them (in correct order). The only syncro that you have worry about getting the correct direction is the one for 5th gear as that syncro only controls the engagment of 5th where all the rest do double duty. so just pay attention to the way it come off - if you get it backward she won't want slip into gear which you can test on the bench - that is how I found out I put it on backwards. because she wouldn't pop into 5th as we were turning the input shaft with a pipe wrench.

But the auto's just plan on rebuilding it and it's not cheap... you can rebuild the manual for 500 clams with new main shaft, new 5th gears (both the counter gear and 5th), new nut for 5th and fluid. Typically the syncros if they look good just run them.

 

[Capt. REDBEARD]

thanks for the info.

I hate the atuos any how - I'm glad I have a good reason to avoid them.

That posting came down before I had a chance to get in touch with the guy.

I did see this:
http://nwct.craigslist.org/cto/2206256502.html

which looks like a screaming deal if all is well -
correct me if I am wrong - but the only difference btwn the 2500 and 3500 is the rear springs. so if I am looking to put in airbags then there is really no difference and I can get a 2500 and beef it up - right?

 

[argve]

Pretty much... the 2500 manual and the 3500 (any tranny) have the same rear end (both heavy duty) - they are a 70/80 hybrid - 80 center with 70 axle shafts.