ford frustrated

derric

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I have a 92 f-350 with a 7.3 idi and im having cranking issues, it runs great once its cranked but getting to that point is almost impossible. ive changed return lines, new fuel filter, lift pump, cleaned injectors, new glow plugs, drained fuel tanks and added fresh fuel with stanadyne additive but after the truck sits awhile its like its losing its prime and nearly runs two new batteries down cranking it, I also replaced the check valve on the fuel header, please help
 

IDIoit

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did you replace all rubber lines?
did you do anything to the senders?
what has been done to the FSV?

even with air intrusion and a mechanical lift pump, you should crank for 5 sec and depress schrader valve.
after a solid stream of diesel comes out, it should be good.
also tells you if the leak is up or down stream.

i preach a fuel pressure gauge inbetween filter head and IP
 

derric

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all the rubber lines have been replaced and all the injector O-rings replaced, but I have done nothing to the senders or the fsv
 

IDIoit

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when i say rubber lines, im not talking about the return lines.
im talking about the rubber 3/8" lines to the lift pump.
did you replace the olives inbetween the LP and FH, and the FH to the IP?
a common problem.
the FSV could also be the issue.
i hate those things so much, i swap to single rear tanks.
 

derric

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I did not replace the rubber line at the lp but I did replace the line from fuel header to ip, but once cranked this thing runs like a top and doesn't lose power at all, that's what is confusing
 

IDIoit

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not confusing at all. you have air in the system.

what confuses me is you did all that work, and didnt do all of the key items :D
replace fuel line from frame to lift pump
replace olive to the FH
if youre still having issues.
grab a big hammer and smash TF out of the SFV
 

derric

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lol ok i'll try those few things and see, I'm hoping this fixes the problem, its a good truck with only 149,000 miles on it
 

IDIoit

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a complete and through fuel system renovation happens on every truck i bring in.
i too completely hate fuel issues..
do it right, do it once, and never look back!
38 gallon bronco tanks only cost 100 bucks and the sender is roughly the same.
just sayin'
 

derric

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this truck wasn't taken care of by the previous owner so I get the joy of putting it back right, by the way, where is the fsv located on a 92 f350?
 

IDIoit

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driverside frame rail, by the front of the front tank
 

tbrumm

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There are many, many threads on air intrusion issues on this forum. It is, perhaps, one of the most frustrating, but generally the simplest problems that affect the idi's. It can be very discouraging when trying to resolve the air intrusion issue, as it seems like you check everything but the intrusion keeps coming back. IDIot has made a number of great suggestions, and you can pick up many more great suggestions form doing more thread research on here. In my own case, after I checked and replaced nearly everything I could think of, I found that one of the "new" return line caps form the new kit actually had a hairline crack in it. No visible fuel on the outside, but I found the crack on very careful visual inspection. Now, this would be a very rare case if you purchased a "good" return line kit. Also, much depends on your "technique" when installing the return line kit. You need to check all the injector caps over very carefully for "casting flash" on the plastic from when the caps came out of the mold. This extra "flash" has sharp edges and will cut the o-rings in a heartbeat. Clean up the flash with an exacto knife by scraping it off. Make sure the inner part of cap is SMOOTH! Use VITON o-rings and lube them with something when sliding them on. Many here suggest Vaseline, but I use a product called "Superlube". It is a synthetic grease that come in a gray tube and I get it at the local hardware store. Put the upper o-ring on the injector first and the slide the lower o-ring over the upper one and into the lower groove. Start with the o-rings, caps, hoses between injectors and rubber seals on the ends of the fuel lines (olives) from the the fuel pump to filter head and filter head to IP. Once you have all the engine fuels seals up to *****, and if you still have a problem, then start working your way back to the supply/return lines on the frame, the FSV (located in front of the front fuel tank and a PITA to get to). The fitting on the filter head can also leak air. The schraeder valve on mine leaked so I replaced it. Don't get too frustrated - just keep researching this well discussed subject in this forum and then work methodically checking/replacing sources of air intrusion and eventually you will find where the air is getting in.
 

icanfixall

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This sounds like 2 issues. One is you have an air leak and the second is the starter is well worn down from too many long cranking issues. Many have found that long cranking times burns out the starters. On your 92 engine you probably have the gear reduction starter and that should crank the engine so fast you can't count the rpm during cranking. Now to find the air leaks can be tuff but this is where to look. On top of the fuel filter header is a black square electrical fitting. that is the fuel heater and its worthless really. We have tried for many years to figure them out but even owners in the deep frozen east do not use them. They usually leak and cause hard starts. Plenty info on how to modify them so no more leaks too. Another place to look for leaks is the lift pump rubber line from the passenger side frame rail to the actual lift pump down under the passenger side battery. The hose gets lots of flex and it wears out. Then there is the fuel line olives. At the fuel inlet to the filter is a 3/8 line with a brass nut. Inside that is a seal called and olice. It looks like a short piece of 3/8 hose but its really more than that. Now the fuel supply line from the filter discharge has an olive in both ends and that line is 5/16 so tell the shop you need 2 olives 5/16 and one olive that is 3/8. Now the last place I feel can be a leak is the drivers side of the injection pump. That lever works a plunger and it has a seal on the shaft. Those leak over time and the fuel in the injection pump leaks out causing horrible long cranking time to purge the air from the mt pump. Any good injection pump repair shop will have the olives too. Or contact Mel at Conestoga Diesel in Pa or Russ in Oregon who is known here as typ4. Both this guys are great members here and will help you no matter what.
 

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