ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP INSTALL

[CaptTom]

Hey Smokerz!!

Been awhile but wanted to forward the parts numbers for the electric vacuum pump AND Ford harness number to make it work.

First, I must fess up, I just got the parts and have not yet installed for performance testimony, but have read on here that it works well. So far, everything recommended on this board that I've done has been a real upgrade to my truck and appreciate everyone involved in trail blazing these great truck performance makers.

The pump I ordered was a Dorman Chinese POS and have no hopes of long term reliability, however, the Ford part was also made in China so, I opted for the $30.00 less in cost. The only harness I could find had to be purchased from Ford. Even with a military discount, the ****** still cost me 41.75 with tax.

When looking for the harness, the foolery is this.... the plug receptacle in the pump is a two pin barrel, however, there is no such thing in Fords, Dodges inventory. It's the same pup and plug for both brand trucks.

The two pins are male, but the plug receptacle is female. The wire harness plug is in actuality a 4 wire plug. Two you will not use, two you will. The pin receptacle is female, the plug housing is male with a locking clip molded in.

The Dorman brand pump model number is: 904-214

And no, they do not sell the plug with it.

Ford's harness part number is: 1U2Z14S411AEA



My total cost on this was about $100.00, plus fuse/relay and additional wiring with butt connectors, etc.


My reason for writing this subject over again was because in the other posts regarding the electric vacuum pump installs, it didn't have the harness number, nor did they hint that the 2-wire plug is actually a 4-wire plug that only uses 2 wires! Can we all say AaaaaaarGUH!

Sorry no photo's yet, not installed yet, but may do so when I finally get around to doing the project.

Hope this helps someone.

 

[riotwarrior]

This thread is useless without pics.....

Just saying




Al

 

[CaptTom]

Ok.... Here's one of a recent fuel tank we inspected with a ton of bacterial sludge in it.... Yeah.... high jacking myself... but, it's a pic!


Severe bacterial slime on a course screened pick up tube.... yummy! $$$$$

You must be registered for see images attach

Shiiiiiiineeeeeeeeeyyy! Notice the clean v. dark line? Fuel additive we distribute allowed for the clean part, 4000PSI alone on the dark area did nothing. YES! The additive you use matters.

You must be registered for see images attach

THERE! Might keep the photo Ho's at bay for a few!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i used two small pink in color iirc butt connectors to make my "harness"
all you have to do is crimp them onto the wires of course,and then slowly (little at a time) crimp the other end shut until it slides onto your pin in vac pump.when you get it just right,it will push on very firmly and you can tell it'll be too tight to slide off on it's own.do the same for both wires/pins.then wire tire right close by to help hold the wires yet some more,for good measure.
cheap low cost homemade doorman wire harness tip.

for a reasonable alternative,which is what i was originally going to do,before trying the butt connectors,was to just head to a salvage yard and paying a buck or two for one.
i always try to avoid letting ford **** whenever possible.if we all did this,they would be forced to price parts reasonably.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok.... Here's one of a recent fuel tank we inspected with a ton of bacterial sludge in it.... Yeah.... high jacking myself... but, it's a pic!


Severe bacterial slime on a course screened pick up tube.... yummy! $$$$$

You must be registered for see images attach

Shiiiiiiineeeeeeeeeyyy! Notice the clean v. dark line? Fuel additive we distribute allowed for the clean part, 4000PSI alone on the dark area did nothing. YES! The additive you use matters.

You must be registered for see images attach

THERE! Might keep the photo Ho's at bay for a few!

Those don't count...they got nuthin to do with yer vacuum pump install...*****....

Just sayin...



Al

 

[CaptTom]

I was going to modify the connection with pinkie's too, but wanted a nicer look, and didn't want a junk part.... so I just bent over! Besides, the Ford counter dewd, who didn't know it was a 4 pin plug either (I actually spotted it in his catalog), did help me for 20 minutes searching references. So if anything, I got Ford to belly up free to me labor(I know built into cost) and got exactly what I needed to pass off to you for freeeeee!!! Now if someone can find a better deal, well.... there you go, glad to take a hit for the team! At least that's what I tell myself to make it not hurt so much!


The nice part is, at least Ford made me feel like I got my money's worth, the harness "kit" came with connector crimps for the wire side as well as heat shrink..... ooooooooo.... made it worth it! Yeah well whatever..... but at least it had some extras, not just the plug.... for whatever that's worth.

 

[icanfixall]

Its really sad to see that much slime in the tanks. Would you please post what fuel additive you have been using. Also why you feel the slime attacked the fuel tank. It could really help others to avoid what happened to you...

 

[CaptTom]

Hi Gary,

This isn't my tank but a customers tank installed in a 50' boat. He has two 550 gallon tanks and have sat for years. We do tank cleaning and fuel polishing as a part of our services.

The slime/sludge you see is bacteria common to diesel fuel. It's in every tank out there, including the refineries.

Rapid growth occurs when there is water in the tank. The bugs love it! They live in the transition point of fuel and water, however, they will grow in straight diesel all the way up the tanks walls. They love to breed and hook themselves into the metal much like moss to a rock. The bacteria oozes a protective barrier much like a snail does to survive.

The way the product works is by penetrating the slime layer, but it doesn't kill the bacteria like biocides do.

Biocides are bad in my opinion because like penicillin, the bugs can become immune to it and a super bug can grow if not every one is killed dead. Also, biocides do not solve the sludge problem, it only kills and drops the carcass to the bottom of the tank resulting in plugged filters. How many depends on how much slime is killed, but is still an annoying problem.

Our product penetrates the biofilm, making the living environment inhospitable to the bugs. They end up releasing and dropping off. The resulting slurry of bacteria then disolves and is run through the filter system, usually without plugging the filters, unless it is shock treated and used right away, then there may be filter issues. The slurry typically passes through the filters and burns out through the injectors.

The product also has lubricity properties that prevents IP burn out and in a healthy system, helps with ULSD lube issues.

Lastly, the product also immediately stops internal tank corrosion caused by MIC- Microbial Induced Corrosion caused by bacterial poop. Bacteria poops acetic acid which then causes corrosion in any/all metal tanks, even stainless. It works through water as well, protecting from moisture caused corrosion. It stops corrosion in its tracks immediately.

There's three kinds in the line up. One is for cold weather and prevents line freeze up, one is for bio-fuels, and the other is for moderate to hot climates.

Speaking f bio-fuels. There's a report out called the Battell Report put out by the oil industry that determined that bio-fuels cause corrosion. The reason the study was done is because even straight diesel isn't straight diesel, it has bio-fuel in it, up to 15%. The bio-fuel is causing fuel station underground tank fittings to corrode(the new tanks are fiberglass so no corrosion issues with the tanks themselves). This product also protects against this type of corrosion. BTW- the bio-fuel in diesel also accelerates bacteria growth.

I'm not so sure I can give the name of the product due to advertising spam on here etc. and do not want to break any rules... I like this place and want to stay.

PM me and I'll give you the name. I also give discounts to members of this site. One 6oz bottle treats up to 700 gallons of diesel, no other additive makes this claim, and most are treat ratio's of 1oz/15 gallons fuel give or take a few gallons, our product treat ratio is 1oz/117 gallons of fuel.... needless to say, it's tough to add 1/4 ounce to a 30 gallon system.

To be fair and for the sake of honesty, the treat ratio in the photo's was 1oz/4 gallons in a 30 day period. It was an accelerated project to remove the heaviest slime in condemned fuel. We did it during 2 engines being rebuilt, so we had an extreme shock treatment that I would never do in any other circumstance. We disposed of the treated fuel, 1) because it was condemned in the first place, and 2) it had waaaaay too much treatment, that could actually do harm to the engines. 3) we also replaced all fuel lines as they were 30 years old and cracking too, so no risk of accidental dosage.

One last thing, this stuff treats home heating oil too. It was produced for home heating oil because their bacterial issues are worse than in either boat or automotive systems.

Class dismissed!

 

[gandalf]

You make this product sound like just what we all need. Your write-up is very good. Thanks.

You remember that I went through a biodiesel problem. Ultimately we decided that it may not have been algae but rather rotted biodiesel.

If it's not too expensive I might have to consider using this product. I'll send a PM.

 

[CaptTom]

Hey Ken,

I think I remember those orange photo's you sent me a while back, I didn't know there was bio-fuel in it, I thought it was straight diesel. I made the assumption that it was rust from water in the tank.

BTW- I have a mechanic buddy who has an old Triumph motorcycle. It's like 40 years old. He's a marine diesel mechanic, been around forever, a real sage.

His motorcycle fuel tank had rust scale he'd been fighting off-n-on for years. I showed him this product and told him it was for diesel only. He took off his tank, emptied of gasoline, filled it with diesel and this additive, rolled it around real good, let it sit for a few days, drained the tank again and the inside wasn't necessarily shiny, but it had definitely done something to cure the continued rusting. Right now we're seeing how long it takes before the rust comes back again.... remember, this is a diesel product, NOT for gasoline.

For those who use "alternative fuels" I KNOW, much of it is what we call "wet". That is, it has suspended water in it, especially processed veggie, it attracts water like alcohol, just not as aggressively. The bio-fuel formula would help with corrosion problems associated with wet fuel.

Just remember, this is not a cure all, its sole purposes are to eliminate diesel borne bacteria, prevent corrosion and provide lubricity protection to the friction parts of the fuel system.

Lastly, I am not the manufacturer, I'm the SW US Distributor... I say this because I was asked.

 

[chris142]

CapTtom. For some reason I can't send or recieve PM's. I have a question I want to ask you. Can you Email me @ [email protected]? thx.

 

[Brad S.]

Heard this on a local automotive radio show.
Somewhere on the west coast they are using bio-diesel made from algae.
The guys on the show talked about the process used to make bio-diesel from algae, the heating process etc, should
kill most of the algae before the "oil" from the algae is processed.
BUT, we spend a lot of time and money trying to get rid of algae growth in tanks, just hope this kind of bio-diesel works ok.

 

[CaptTom]

Hey Brad,

Yes we do have several Algae to oil farms out here, but has nothing to do with bacteria. If we take the refining process for both algae and Dino fuels, they both involve heat, the Dino fuel being processed in the highest heat of the two.

The bacteria, like all bacteria is initially airborne, it just gets into every crack, crevasse and opening. There is no way to avoid it but through treatment when we become infected.

CAVEAT! Most of us don't have gross bacterial infections because we use our equipment on a regular basis. Unless we get a slug of goo from an outside source, our continued and daily/frequent use "polishes" our fuel. That is, the fuel is constantly filtered and some returned back into the fuel tank by just running and bouncing along. Our fuel filters keep up with the loose stuff sloshing around in our tanks.

The problem comes when we allow the trucks to sit for long periods of time. In warmer moist climates, it can be a matter of months. In the colder climates, years. If we purchase a truck from Farmer Bill who had his old 6.9 outside his barn in Georgia for ten years, guaranteed infection.

No matter what, our tank walls will have an imbedded bacteria on it unless treated with "specific" fuel additives. Trust me when I tell you, to date there are only about three we've found that have any real affect on bacteria, and none that also treat the corrosion issue.

Many customers, including myself, have noticed an "obvious" performance jolt while driving a treated vehicle/vessel. It's almost like some power breaking free all of a sudden.... yet the product doesn't make claims of increased mileage, smoke elimination etc.... know why the others do? Because they're upper end/carbon cleaners that produce additional heat in the combustion cycle. They are basically heavily laced with things like kerosene, mineral spirits etc.... none of which eliminates bacteria.... but they do clear cylinder head, injector tip carbon really well.