Electric vacuum pump conversion

[bike-maker]

I'm looking to rid my truck altogether of the belt driven vacuum pump. Already having a hydroboost conversion done, what is involved in using an electric vacuum pump out of a newer Superduty to make the heater doors work?
Just a vacuum switch wired through a relay?
I also noticed the Superduty's have a pretty good sized vacuum reservoir, would one be required in this conversion?

 

[Blind Driver2]

You could do the heater doors with nothing more then using a cheapie tire inflator from HF. Just hook it up to the suction side. But you'll have to figure out a way to turn it off. A vacuum tank would be a good addition.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

you can buy the superduty vacuum pump aftermarket NEW.

Dont bother with used as they fail quite often as OEM.

New updated units are far more durable. They have an internal vacuum switch, turns on at 13in off at 18-19in. Plenty to run the vacuum doors. I have one in my truck. I did not use another vacuum tank other than the stock one on the side of the evap case. Basically i just ran it to the vacuum line that goes to the vacuum block for the HVAC. It only runs when the key is in the ON position.

Also the stupordooty has a huge vacuum tank because the pump takes care of the 4wd locking actuators.

 

[icanfixall]

The vacuum tank keeps the pump from running all the time. Its kinda like an air storage tank. You get to use the stored air long before the pump turns on. Same way with a vacuum tank. It stores vacuum so the electric pump isn't starting and stopping all the time. Any electrical motor dies an early death because of lots of starts and stops. They require almost twice as much running power to start them up.

 

[bike-maker]

Sounds simple enough. I'll just plan on using the stock vacuum reservoir for my cruise control (the coffee can).

 

[itsacrazyasian]

The vacuum tank keeps the pump from running all the time. Its kinda like an air storage tank. You get to use the stored air long before the pump turns on. Same way with a vacuum tank. It stores vacuum so the electric pump isn't starting and stopping all the time. Any electrical motor dies an early death because of lots of starts and stops. They require almost twice as much running power to start them up.

The electric pump will have no issues with the stock vacuum accumulators. the coffee can for cruise. I dunno about the slant nose trucks, is there a accumulator on the side of the evap case?

 

[bike-maker]

FWIW, my cruise control has never worked, and I probably won't ever get around to fixing it.
Mine does not have the accumulator on the side of the evap case.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

just use the coffee can for your main vacuum storage. you'll be fine. The reason why the stupordootie has such a huge tank is because of the 4x4 system. The front hubs are vacuum operated.

 

[franklin2]

Don't just look at "diesel" pickups for a electric vacuum pump setup. Plenty of little 4 cylinder cars in the 80's had electric vacuum pumps, there engines were too small I guess to generate enough vacuum. Only problem is the electric car people run the prices up on these units, they are very popular to use when converting a car to electric power, but keep the vacuum power brakes and the heater controls.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Don't just look at "diesel" pickups for a electric vacuum pump setup. Plenty of little 4 cylinder cars in the 80's had electric vacuum pumps, there engines were too small I guess to generate enough vacuum. Only problem is the electric car people run the prices up on these units, they are very popular to use when converting a car to electric power, but keep the vacuum power brakes and the heater controls.

Valid point, but he can buy this pump new for 60 bucks in a parts store. It also has a built in switch to kick it on and off depending on vacuum in the system. So its pretty much bolt on and 2 wire type deal.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

dorman 904-214 is the one i bought new.
........oh.upon opening the box i see i need to grab the wire plug someplace still.
crazy asian,did you ditch the whole pulley and use a shorter belt or just ditch the vp?
im thinking for max fuel economy gains,it's always best to ditch everything you can.
i sure never thought about running a canister for just the HVAC.so what if the pump runs for a second every time you swap to defrost lol? am i missing something here?

hmm.ok uncle.
im gunna need help with the part number for the wiring plug for the pump please.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

dorman 904-214 is the one i bought new.
........oh.upon opening the box i see i need to grab the wire plug someplace still.
crazy asian,did you ditch the whole pulley and use a shorter belt or just ditch the vp?
im thinking for max fuel economy gains,it's always best to ditch everything you can.
i sure never thought about running a canister for just the HVAC.so what if the pump runs for a second every time you swap to defrost lol? am i missing something here?

hmm.ok uncle.
im gunna need help with the part number for the wiring plug for the pump please.

I bought the pigtail from Ford for the pump. I don't remember the dorman number but its for a newer superduty. On your OBS, there is a stock canister on the side of the evap case. I just ran my pump to the check valve thats stock on the truck. It runs sometimes when i keep switching modes because the significant other gets cold at her feet or something nutty.

I ditched the entire vacuum pump, but i'm V belt.