ebay aluminum radiators

[vegas39]

So how are the ebay champion radiators and other brands of cheap aluminum radiators holding up? Are they cooling well?
I went to oreilys and bought an aluminum core radiator with plastic tanks for my truck and after a trip to Utah this past weekend, it sucks for cooling! Everytime I hit a grade, the temp would creep up pretty quick. The old radiator was plugged like hell but didnt heat up near as fast.
The fan clutch is fine but I'm going to check and replace the thermostat next, have a feeling that it's probably a cheap aftermarket model.

Didnt Ford have a problem with coolant going through the radiator too fast, hence the dimpled core tubes on the factory unit to slow the coolant down?

I would love to have a Rodney red but I and many others dont have the 700+ bucks to spend on a radiator alone.

 

[Mulochico]

I've had my Champion for a few months. No heavy loads, just a few big hills, off roading with my son, etc. It stays as cool or cooler than any of the stock replacements. Usually by now I would have seen signs of seepage, none so far.

Definitely worth the money as far as I can tell so far.

 

[riotwarrior]

My Champion been in for bout year, well, lets say I'm pleased no issues cools well etc.

I'm would and will buy one again for certain!

JM2CW

 

[whiteboyslo]

I've had mine in for around a year (I think), and I'm reserving judgment on it until I replace a few other cooling components. My temps seem warm even unloaded (205°±5°F), and quickly go up with even the lightest loads when climbing hills. However, I did not install the temp gauge until AFTER I replaced the radiator, so it's hard to compare. I've seen as high as 231°F towing 4 sport bikes and some gear when the clutch FINALLY kicked in and dropped the temps like a rock. Granted, it was pushing 100° outside, but still. Compared to the crazy loads I know some people tow with these things, the truck shouldn't even break a sweat. Power-wise, it's fine. Just gets really hot and the clutch engagement is super inconsistent. Temps are measured using an Autometer digital gauge with the sensor in the factory overheat port.

The general consensus with the Champion units is to ditch the rad cap it comes with (1 bar, roughly 16psi) for one closer to 13psi, which is the OE spec I believe. I originally used a brand new OE Motorcraft unit, but had issues with it not allowing the system to de-pressurize even when cool. Swapped it out for one of those 'safety valve' style caps from O'Reilly. No issues since. No leaks from mine, either. Fitment was OK, though I did have to 'massage' the fan shroud a bit because it was making contact with the lower rad hose.

If replacing the thermostat this Friday doesn't drop the temps, I'll probably start saving my pennies for a Rodney unit because I'm getting tired of watching the temp gauge like a hawk when towing next to nothing over the tiniest grades. I also ordered a OE fan clutch from the ebay link icanfixall shared a few days ago, but that will probably wait until another time. Honestly, my fan clutch looks OK (no leaks or wet spots) and passes all the 'wiggle' tests I've read about, but it kicks in so erratically and inconsistently that I'm willing to shell out a couple bucks just to see if it improves it.

I will say I found the customer service at Champion to be very good. I picked it up via Will Call at their facility in Lake Elsinore, CA, and they had no issues letting me go through a couple to try and find one in the best condition.

Mike

 

[icanfixall]

Kenny.. This radiater you just installed has how many tube rows and how many fins per inch. These are a very important way to determine if a new radiater is better or worse than what you took out. Most here have no issues with the Champion radiaters so I feel they are a good enough radiater for our rigs. As for slowing down the flow of coolant thru the radiaters by dimple core setups.. Nope. Ford felt that reducing the fins count and reducing the amount of tubes they could slow down the flow and release more heat into the radiater cores.. Well that sure didn't work but they still sell those all over the place. Hell, we can even buy an oil pan gasket now. We sure don't need or want that just because its available. We all know the factory used a rtv and it works so well compared to a cork gasket. For me thinking about a cork gasket leaking. And then having to remove the engine to properly replace it tells me stick to what works. Or if you know better try one but figure your going back in sooner than you want. Just the idea of not tightening the pan bolts steel to steel is enough to scare me off from using a cork gasket. I do like working on my engine but no need to create work...

 

[riotwarrior]

I only know that when I installed my rad, I'd flushed my coolant system but good, real good, and subsequently released all havoc upon myself for doing this to a truck that sat for many many years.

Thus one new rad, water pump, thermostat, hoses, and coolant 2 x, I've had nary an issue overheating YET. My clutch fan kicked in a few times and ya, temp drops like rock!

Al

 

[firehawk]

Some simple thermodynamics: slower flow does not equal more heat transfer. Heat transfer is based upon temperature differential, not coolant speed. Higher coolant speed actually promotes heat transfer, as you want the coolant medium to be as low atemperature as possible. The thermostat is what keeps the engine in its optimal temperature range, not the radiator.

 

[vegas39]

Kenny.. This radiater you just installed has how many tube rows and how many fins per inch. These are a very important way to determine if a new radiater is better or worse than what you took out. Most here have no issues with the Champion radiaters so I feel they are a good enough radiater for our rigs. As for slowing down the flow of coolant thru the radiaters by dimple core setups.. Nope. Ford felt that reducing the fins count and reducing the amount of tubes they could slow down the flow and release more heat into the radiater cores.. Well that sure didn't work but they still sell those all over the place. Hell, we can even buy an oil pan gasket now. We sure don't need or want that just because its available. We all know the factory used a rtv and it works so well compared to a cork gasket. For me thinking about a cork gasket leaking. And then having to remove the engine to properly replace it tells me stick to what works. Or if you know better try one but figure your going back in sooner than you want. Just the idea of not tightening the pan bolts steel to steel is enough to scare me off from using a cork gasket. I do like working on my engine but no need to create work...

Not sure how many fins per inch but it's a two row and the cooling passages are deep, like maybe an 1 1/2". I know as soon as I would top a hill, it would cool back down to normal almost instantly. Maybe I need to check the fan clutch again but I've grabbed it when its hot and its pretty stiff. (Engine off of course!)

 

[vegas39]

Some simple thermodynamics: slower flow does not equal more heat transfer. Heat transfer is based upon temperature differential, not coolant speed. Higher coolant speed actually promotes heat transfer, as you want the coolant medium to be as low atemperature as possible. The thermostat is what keeps the engine in its optimal temperature range, not the radiator.

I agree and dissagree. There are certain situations where you could run fluid through a cooler too fast and it wouldnt strip enough heat. Depends on fluid temp, ambient temp and airflow.

This was my same argument with the air to water intercoolers, some say they needed a bigger faster pump and I was more along the thinking of needing a bigger heat exchanger.

 

[vegas39]

Is there a way to lock the fan clutch on full bore? That would give me a better clue on my situation.

 

[Agnem]

I've been using the aluminum radiators that I get from Performance Radiator. They work good, and I can resell them.

 

[chris142]

I have the 2R American eagle rad and it works fine. Came through needles ca last weekend. 119f and ac on. Pulled needles grade and it just barely touched he "m". Whatever temp that may be. Ae is now out of the 2r and only has the 3r. Those have 3 rows of 1/2 tubes. I wonder how well those work?

 

[whiteboyslo]

3R American Eagle = Champion. Same brand

Mike

 

[chris142]

Ya but the ae is a wide 2r and the champ a narrower 3r. My gut tells me that both are fine.

 

[vegas39]

So how are the ebay champion radiators and other brands of cheap aluminum radiators holding up? Are they cooling well?
I went to oreilys and bought an aluminum core radiator with plastic tanks for my truck and after a trip to Utah this past weekend, it sucks for cooling! Everytime I hit a grade, the temp would creep up pretty quick. The old radiator was plugged like hell but didnt heat up near as fast.
The fan clutch is fine but I'm going to check and replace the thermostat next, have a feeling that it's probably a cheap aftermarket model.

Didnt Ford have a problem with coolant going through the radiator too fast, hence the dimpled core tubes on the factory unit to slow the coolant down?

I would love to have a Rodney red but I and many others dont have the 700+ bucks to spend on a radiator alone.

I just pulled the thermostat out and its a motorad cheapie. I bought one at IH yesterday while I was out and just finished installing it, we'll see how it does.