Dodge 5.9l disel 12v versus 24 valve

[Aliceter99]

Hello
I am new here
I love diesels, and am currently looking to buy, but am limited on funds
I keep seeing guys ads 98 dodge 2500 diesel and says "hard to find/Rare"
Why?
Are they better then 24v? or what?
I know lots about the Fords, but not about Dodge, and I have always liked Dodge (since my teen days and my Dusters and chargers)
Can someone help me in the Dieseil department please
i need a 2500/3500 minimum, of course, but need to know more
I know/love Cummins Diesel of course, but with my funds, I am on the edge of the newer 24v and older 12v

Thnx All
Al

 

[IH POWER]

Not a cummins fan or mechanic but Ive tore apart some and worked on 5.9 cummins both 12 and 24 valve and I've worked on 350 and 400 big cam cummins. All I can say is 12 valves are more reliable, easier and cheaper to work on but harder to get power out of vs a 24 valve. I believe 24 valves have a different pump.

 

[tanman_2006]

24 valves have an electronic IP that can be troublesome but there are millions out there without problems, biggest issue is keeping a good operating lift pump.

12 valve is simple and reliable but has lower power unless you feel like doing alot of tweeking to squeeze it all out with out major mods.

98 was a cross over year. Early 98's were 12valves and lates were 24valves. 98 had a different interior than 97 and earlier. That is why they call it rare if it has the 12valve.

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

IMHO, if money is tight, get a 12V. They have no engine computer, which means they're inherently more reliable and cheaper/easier to fix. So you'll save money on the initial purchase and then save more in the future.

The other "special" thing about the 98s is it's the first year of the quad cab (extended cab with small back doors). Previous year extended cabs had no back doors. Some folks say the quad doors rattle. I dunno, but whenever I have to put someone in my back seat I wish I had doors. That said, I wouldn't pay big bucks for an early 98 12V just to get the doors....

Join the Turbo Diesel Register, www.tdr1.com.

If you're looking for a 4x4, be aware of the ball joint & track bar problems. If you get a 24V, look out for the #53 block, though I might think if the block hasn't cracked by now, it's not going to.

The most important thing is to be sure whatever truck you get is in the best condition available. Look for documented maintenance, documented repairs/upgrades of typical problem areas and modifications (or lack thereof) that suit your needs. When I bought my truck, I got documentation of a quality engine rebuild and trans rebuild/upgrade that cost more than I'd paid for the truck, all in the last 50K miles, plus other goodies. And I bought the truck from a trusted friend. It had wheels/tires and topper that I didn't care for, but I sold those parts for more than I paid for wheels/tires and cap that I wanted.

Happy hunting!
kevin