rlb245
Full Access Member
Well it was Sunday evening! all the yard work was done and I was sitting the back deck, having an ice cold beverage! I was leafing through my favorite reading material. "Ford repair manual" grin!!!! and I run it to the section on cruise control system. Now I have in all honesty, have been avoiding this section. The cruise control system on the old girl has never worked sense I bought her. So I've steered clear of it for 2 or 3 years now because I'm a little intimidated by what seems to be a some what complex system and I didn't think really needed it. But I was feeling adventurous that day and said, What the hell, I can't break it. So I read what little info there was in the my Chiltons manuel then fired up the PC and started ALLDATA. There is so much more info in that program. Printed out a visual inspection form for 1987 Ford F-350 6.9 dually and went out to the truck and a visual inspection. Every thing appeared to be perfect.
Tests
1. Using an ohm meter I checked the clutch and break switch = good
2. Started truck and checked the vacuum dump valve for proper operation = good
3. checked horn relay simple by blowing the horn = good
4. I pulled the cruise cable at the at the servo controller = bad news
The cable was broken and was no long to the servo actuator. So no problem I'll just get a new cable and it will be right a rain. RIGHT?
So after 3 auto parts stores and the old NOT IN STOCK and WE CAN"T GET THAT PART ANYMORE I set out on a mission to try and repair what I had. Beside it's not rocket science.
The Repair
Remove the cruise control cable from the vehicle. see removing cruise control cable in manual
As you can see the small metal ball that slides into the receiver of the servo has broke of the end of the cable. Well i figured no problem, i'll just weld the ball back on with a little silver solder and it will be good as new. I take the little ball and try to drill out the old cable. Man that **** is hard 2 drill bits later.
New plan, fabricate a new end for cable. Down to the hardware store and pickup a short length of 1/4" CR round stock and a 8# 32 allen head set screw. Then raid the tool box for a hack saw, file, center punch, 8#32 tap and drill, 8#32 bottoming tap and a 3/32 drill bit. I put the bar stock in the bench vise and center punched a start for a hole a 1/4" in from the end and drilled a 3/32 hole throw the center line of the bar stock. Then I turned the bar stock in the vise and to where I was looking at the 1/4" round end and center punch a starter for the correct drill size for an 8#32 tap. Then drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. (it intersects the 3/32 hole). Then I taped the hole with 8#32 tap. Fooled by the use the bottoming tap to insure there were threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then I used the hacksaw to cut a 1/2" part away from the rest of the bar stock.
The Finished Prodct
Unfortunately the cable had broken just inside the sheath. So what to do? I pull the cable out of it's sheath and cut the sheath using a 3/32 cut of wheel in my 4" hand grinder about a 1/4" from the housing that bolts to the servo.
IMPORTENT : keep the heat down when your doing this. The sheath has a Teflon lining and it can be ruined
Then removed about an 1.5" from the end of sheath.
Then cut back plastic coating about an 1" on the sheeth.
It was easy to remove the part the sheath that was still in the housing by using a pare of plyers and pulling it out a couple of stands at a time. I used a drill the same diameter as the sheath to clean up the bore of the housing where I pulled the remaining sheath
Next I cleaned up the end of the sheath and and inserted it back in the housing nice snug fit. No clue needed
I stalled the cable back in the truck. I inserted the part I made it the receiver of the servo with the set screw at the top. put the cable throw the 3/32 hole and adjusted the cable slack and tightened the set screw. Then bolted the housing back on the servo.
Hind site
1. I could of simple made another from the 1/4" bar stock ans silver soldered it on but sense I didn't no the original length of the cable i figured better save than sorry with some adjustment.
2. On a sad note the the cruise still doesn't work but the cable it is good to go if I ever figure it out.
3. I enjoyed this little project an hope it might help some one with a similar problem.
4. Cost of project was about $5. I wonder what I new cable would have cost
Tests
1. Using an ohm meter I checked the clutch and break switch = good
2. Started truck and checked the vacuum dump valve for proper operation = good
3. checked horn relay simple by blowing the horn = good
4. I pulled the cruise cable at the at the servo controller = bad news
The cable was broken and was no long to the servo actuator. So no problem I'll just get a new cable and it will be right a rain. RIGHT?
So after 3 auto parts stores and the old NOT IN STOCK and WE CAN"T GET THAT PART ANYMORE I set out on a mission to try and repair what I had. Beside it's not rocket science.
The Repair
Remove the cruise control cable from the vehicle. see removing cruise control cable in manual
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[/URL]As you can see the small metal ball that slides into the receiver of the servo has broke of the end of the cable. Well i figured no problem, i'll just weld the ball back on with a little silver solder and it will be good as new. I take the little ball and try to drill out the old cable. Man that **** is hard 2 drill bits later.
New plan, fabricate a new end for cable. Down to the hardware store and pickup a short length of 1/4" CR round stock and a 8# 32 allen head set screw. Then raid the tool box for a hack saw, file, center punch, 8#32 tap and drill, 8#32 bottoming tap and a 3/32 drill bit. I put the bar stock in the bench vise and center punched a start for a hole a 1/4" in from the end and drilled a 3/32 hole throw the center line of the bar stock. Then I turned the bar stock in the vise and to where I was looking at the 1/4" round end and center punch a starter for the correct drill size for an 8#32 tap. Then drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. (it intersects the 3/32 hole). Then I taped the hole with 8#32 tap. Fooled by the use the bottoming tap to insure there were threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then I used the hacksaw to cut a 1/2" part away from the rest of the bar stock.
The Finished Prodct
You must be registered for see images attach
"]
You must be registered for see images attach
[/URL]
You must be registered for see images attach
"]
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[/URL]Unfortunately the cable had broken just inside the sheath. So what to do? I pull the cable out of it's sheath and cut the sheath using a 3/32 cut of wheel in my 4" hand grinder about a 1/4" from the housing that bolts to the servo.
IMPORTENT : keep the heat down when your doing this. The sheath has a Teflon lining and it can be ruined
You must be registered for see images attach
"]
You must be registered for see images attach
[/URL] Then removed about an 1.5" from the end of sheath.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then cut back plastic coating about an 1" on the sheeth.
You must be registered for see images attach
It was easy to remove the part the sheath that was still in the housing by using a pare of plyers and pulling it out a couple of stands at a time. I used a drill the same diameter as the sheath to clean up the bore of the housing where I pulled the remaining sheath
You must be registered for see images attach
Next I cleaned up the end of the sheath and and inserted it back in the housing nice snug fit. No clue needed
You must be registered for see images attach
I stalled the cable back in the truck. I inserted the part I made it the receiver of the servo with the set screw at the top. put the cable throw the 3/32 hole and adjusted the cable slack and tightened the set screw. Then bolted the housing back on the servo.
Hind site
1. I could of simple made another from the 1/4" bar stock ans silver soldered it on but sense I didn't no the original length of the cable i figured better save than sorry with some adjustment.
2. On a sad note the the cruise still doesn't work but the cable it is good to go if I ever figure it out.
3. I enjoyed this little project an hope it might help some one with a similar problem.
4. Cost of project was about $5. I wonder what I new cable would have cost
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