cranking question

ericwade381

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Posts
474
Reaction score
0
Location
northeast/md/cecil
New batteries and starter the previous owner said it drained batteries so I replaced the alt and volt regulator. ..thing is if I have a hard start and try to get two 10 second cranking sessions my batteries are gone?? Could it be my cables?
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
That connection that swollen and showing some green is the issue. Cut back the cable cover and soak it in baking soda and water till its clean. Wire brush it and treat it with a battery terminal protectant from any auto parts store. Wrap with electrical tape and RTV. If its clean when you wrap it you wont have any more issues there but may have other problems. Tell us what the batteries are for cranking hours. The best battery is the group 31 top screw post mount semi truck type. they are usually 1000 or 1100 amps. A couple of 700 or 800 amp batteries just wont crank too long in our trucks.
 

snicklas

6.0 and Loving It!!
Staff member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Posts
6,164
Reaction score
2,343
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
Agreed with above, check connections, and the batteries, just in case. I've had the same problem on both my diesels. My 6.0 has 2 batteries, and when the connections get corroded, or the batteries start to get weak. I can run the glow plugs, but don't have enough reserve left to crank the truck to start. The 6.0 has to build oil pressure to start, so it does not start as fast as the IDI's do.... but on that truck, if it is cool out, and the batteries are weak, it will not start, period. Put my 200 amp boost charger on it, and it fires right up.

My VW IDI is doing the same thing right now. If I park in the garage at home, it only runs the glow plugs for a second or so, it will start right up. But at work last night, it was right at 32 F. Turned on the key and it ran the plugs for 6 or 8 seconds, hit the key and I got maybe 3 revolutions out of the starter. Got out my little 70 amp boost box, it ran the plugs again for 4 or 5 seconds, and then cranked right over. Battery is old, and just has no reserve left in. Getting a new battery tomorrow on payday...

BTW - Reserve is the measure of how long it can maintain output. So simply stating, the higher the reserve, the longer you can crank on it before you loose power. Just remember thought, just because you can crank longer, the starter still needs a rest. I believe most hold to the 30 seconds of cranking followed by at least 2 minutes of rest to cool down the starter. If you do not let the starter rest, you will let out the "magic smoke".... Also, a DC motor takes a certain amount of power to work. This is voltage and current combo. So, the lower the supply voltage is, the more current it will draw to do the same amount of work. More current, more heat, burn it up faster. Voltage and current are inversely proportional in the power equation.

P=I * E that is P power (in Watts) = I current (in Amps) * (multiplied by) E voltage (in Volts)

So lets say that a truck starter draws 600 amps at 12 volts. That would be P=600A*12V or P (in Watts) is 7200 Watts to start the truck.

Now lets say that you are now at 9 volts due to a weak battery. The starter is still going to want 7200 Watts to start the truck. so that makes our equation look like this. 7200W=(?)A * 9V or 7200W / 9V = 800A to start the truck......

Same way we figure out how big of cord / breaker to use for the block heater. Most block heaters are 1500 Watts. So that gives us 1500W = (?)A * 120V. or 1500W / 120V = 12.5 Amps. So you have to plug into at least a 15 Amp breaker, and use a big enough cord. Also you have to take that in mind if you buy a timer for the block heater, a little 5 Amp timer for a 60Watt desk lamp isn't going to cut it. To further the example, now lets say you wanted to run that same heater at 12Volts the truck already has on-board. That would be 1500W = (?)A * 12V or 1500W/12V = 125Amps to run the same heater. Power is a really fun thing to work with. I would love to work on the power crew at work, you just have to respect it, and know it will kill you without any remorse.

Sorry for the long post, but I am sure not everyone out there understands how power works.......
 

ericwade381

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Posts
474
Reaction score
0
Location
northeast/md/cecil
thank you guys for all of the reply I am going to try to get a few pictures later tonight of the cables. Also the batteries and the starter our new but however once in a while when I go to turn the king maybe every 3 * in a row I will get a cLunk it seems like maybe the starter? Not sure what is going really with this thing
 

ericwade381

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Posts
474
Reaction score
0
Location
northeast/md/cecil
here are two pictures of my battery terminal cables you can see the green and corrosion also my batteries are autocraft gold 850 CCA 1000 cranking amps at 32 degrees reserve capacity 150
You must be registered for see images attach
 

DaytonaBill

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Posts
503
Reaction score
15
Location
USA
No picture...

Although I already know what the green fungus thingie looks like, after having lived on the East coast for some time...
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
I'd would start by replacing the cables.
The clunk every now and then could be the starter, but could be the starter solenoid on the fender well.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
 

ericwade381

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Posts
474
Reaction score
0
Location
northeast/md/cecil
ok thank you very much the selenoid on the fender well is new and it's making me wonder if it could be a bad spot in the starter? As far as the cables can I just go to any store say advanced auto and get my replacement positive cable I have looked online but cannot seem to find that cable for a diesel
 

sassyrel

Registered User
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Posts
3,714
Reaction score
1
Location
iowa
My VW IDI is doing the same thing right now. If I park in the garage at home, it only runs the glow plugs for a second or so, it will start right up. But at work last night, it was right at 32 F. Turned on the key and it ran the plugs for 6 or 8 seconds, hit the key and I got maybe 3 revolutions out of the starter. Got out my little 70 amp boost box, it ran the plugs again for 4 or 5 seconds, and then cranked right over. Battery is old, and just has no reserve left in. Getting a new battery tomorrow on payday...

id replace that batt FAST..the dash panel,,if the batt gets too low,,will take something out, [don't remember],and then you will be replacing the dash panel,,if you can find one....when it happens,,even with the key off,,the dash will stay on........don't ask............
 

ericwade381

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Posts
474
Reaction score
0
Location
northeast/md/cecil
I will have to check in on all of that the batteries are no so hopefully it is not that or they would want to them? Got the battery from advance auto nOwdays you never know what you're getting
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,310
Posts
1,130,151
Members
24,121
Latest member
720Diesel

Members online

Top