Changing Clutch

[7.3IDIDSL]

Well my clutch has been getting worse over the last 2 months. It started engaging higher and higher on the pedal, and now it doesnt even feel like it engages through the pedal and in the last couple days ive noticed rattles while driving and when i shut my truck off.

Luckily i went ahead and ordered a Southbend clutch last week and i should receive it sometime this week. If i do get it this week i want to go ahead and install it this weekend. My truck still has the original DMF in it and im swapping to a SMF. I was just wondering if there is any other parts related to the clutch that i need to check or change while im doing the clutch. Also if anybody has any tips on replacing the clutch please send them my way.

I originally was going to seperate the tranny and tcase and completely remove them from the truck but after talking to a mechanic friend who has done a few of these clutches he says to just removed the driveshaft...support tranny and tcase with jack..remove bellhosing bolts and slide tranny back as far as possible so i can work on the clutch.

 

[hesutton]

You gotta remove the tranny tunnel plate from the floor of the cab as well. Then remove the shifter. I took the T-case off the tranny. It is light enough to manuver alone if needed. Now the tranny was freak'n heavy and akward. I cannot imagine trying to wrestle if on an off with the T-case on there as well. But, I didn't have a decent tranny jack.

As far as checking other parts.......be sure to give the clutch master and slave cylinder a good once over. Put some sealant on the crank bolts or you may get an oil leak.

Heath

 

[kpj]

When i changed the clutch i didn't remove the floor plate thing and i pulled the t-case and the tranny together. There is more than one way of changing, so see for yourself what feels the best way. Make sure you replace the rear main seal also, it's easy change sense you don't have to take more parts off than you already have to. With Centerforce clutch kit the crank bolts did already have some sealant so i din't put more to them...

 

[94f450sd]

ive never removed the tranny hump cover.but if you are gonna slide it back with the crossmember still in place you may need to remove it.but you should be able to remove the shifters and leave the hump in place.

 

[7.3IDIDSL]

Well ive figured out how im going to get the tranny and everything out to replace the clutch. What else should i be checking while im in there? I dont know if i should touch the rear main seal since it isnt leaking right now...you know what they say if it aint broke dont fix it...i can just see myself replacing it then having it leak after everything is back to together.

 

[suv7734]

I dont know if i should touch the rear main seal since it isnt leaking right now...you know what they say if it aint broke dont fix it...i can just see myself replacing it then having it leak after everything is back to together.

+1 on that call. There have been a few threads regarding leaks after replacement...

 

[7.3IDIDSL]

+1 on that call. There have been a few threads regarding leaks after replacement...

haha yeah im going to wait untill i get the tranny out and make sure the seal isnt leaking...ive got not oul leaking on the ground and there is no oil around the inspection plate for the tranny so i really dont think the seal is leaking and if that is the case ill leave it alone.

what about the slave and master cylinders...should i do anything to those while im doing the clutch?

hey suv i noticed your in BC...where abouts?

 

[hesutton]

Maybe it is different with the ZF 5 , but I could not get the T-19 out without removing the tranny tunnel. It really only adds 2 minutes to the job. It's has like 6-8 sheet metal screws and it's off.

Heath

 

[tractorman86]

on my 91 with a zf you can just spin off the top half of the shift tower and your done.

 

[BigRigTech]

I wouldn't touch the rear main seal unless it's dripping on the floor...Seeping is ok, soaking wet is a different story. Mine was seeping when I did my 5spd swap but I didn't touch it...For the little bit of work it is to remove one of these trannies I will change it out if it really starts to leak....I removed the trans tunnel cover, makes it easy to get at the top two bolts in bellhousing. Blue loctite on your flywheel bolts is a must, make sure the crank and flywheel are damn clean on the mating surfaces too to make sure everything seats tight.

 

[suv7734]

hey suv i noticed your in BC...where abouts?

Just on the other side of Scott Road...
Send me a PM

 

[geonc]

what about the slave and master cylinders...should i do anything to those while im doing the clutch?

Talk to Peter at South Bend about up grading your slave cyl....Just replacing the pressure plate will put a different load on the existing slave and in the long run a possible failure.
I got both slave and resivour for less than $100.

re: the main seal....some "seepage" is expected but a clean line from the bottom of the seal indicates a leak.... in other words, seepage will attract the road dust while a full leak will clean the area.

The rear seal is actually easy....just remove the 2 rear pan bolts and the seal carrier bolts....remove seal...clean carrier and use RTV blue or red to re-install being sure to also use some sealant--Permatex#2- on the bolts as some are thru bores to the crankcase.

If memory serves, the newer style main seals are now a teflon type and need to be installed "DRY"!........any oil used will form a capillary leak....just think of siphoning...

best of luck!