Bronco tank question

typ4

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That would work, I put in a rust free 88 tank in mine and eliminated the fuel pump, brazed on a longer piece of tubing and used the original bronco sender and it works awesome.

I did extend the return also and braked them together near the tank bottom to help against vibration fatigue.
 

Agnem

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I just bought a 32 gallon Bronco tank off of somebody on fleabay. $61, brand new. With shipping, it was just under $100. Made in Tiawan of course. :rolleyes: BUt, it looked good, fit right, and is working just fine. I doubt it will last 18 years like the $475 Ford parts counter one, but at that price, If I get 5 years out of it, I'll be doing fine.
 

jclark23

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Hey Agnem I was reading an old post where you used the bronco sending unit...what had to be done to get the gauge working correctly? Do they have the plugs?

Thanks Jason
 

Agnem

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No change is necessary. Of course, it's in a Bronco, but then the instrument cluster is out of an F series, so I still say no change is necessary. Yes it does have a pump on it. I left it in, and it works in conjunction with the holley red just fine. The advantage of leaving it in, is the pump has a bypass valve that swirls the fuel at the strainer. Should keep stuff from accumulating and clogging it up.
 

seawalkersee

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Are you using this for an IDI? If so, you definately want the one with a return line already attached so you do not have to do this.
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I have an 84 and did not even consider the IDI until gas got over $4 bux here. Then, I scored my IDI and did not want to sell my BRAND NEW plastic tank. So, I modified my pickup to have a return line. Hope this helps. You can check out what I have done so far here http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129053 for more details...Let me know if you need anything else.

SWS
 

Agnem

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Most Bronco's had EFI, so they all came with senders equipped with return lines.
 

jclark23

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Thanks for the pics Seawalker! Yes it is going into an idi, it is an 88' ford f250. I think this is the route i am going to take and making my own straps out of some flat metal.

Thanks for the help
 

jclark23

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One more question on the fuel issue. If I do away with the cross over completely and unplug it will the gauge still read? Or will I have to do something else with the cross over electrical plug so that it will know to read from the back? I took out the front tank and am only going to have the one 33 gal. bronco tank in the rear.


Thanks again!
 

seawalkersee

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Bronco's did not come with EFI until the 86 model year. From the first full size in 78 until 85, they were all carbed. As far as the fuel system, I am a bit confused. You are saying you are going to run a bronco tank in the 250? You can do that, if you have the sender going to the correct tank. Should be a piece of cake.

SWS
 

jclark23

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Seawalker, I am putting a bronco tank into my 88' f250. I removed the front tank and I am only going to have the one 33 gal. tank in the rear. My cross over in the truck is bad, it is stuck on the front tank. To fix the problem so I could run the truck around the shop, I just swaped the fuel lines on the cross over. So now I have the fuel lines coming from the rear tank hooked up on the crossover where the front tank used to be hooked up.

I hope that is a little better wording and makes more sinse. ;p

What I am wanting to do is to do away with the crossover in the truck since it is no good, and I am only going to be running one tank anyway. If I unplug the crossover, take it out, and run my lines from the back tank all the way to the front will the fuel gauge still read? My concern was that when I eliminate the crossover will the tank automatically know to read from the rear tank?

I hope all of this makes since..its hard to try to describe all of this and still make sense.

Thanks again Jason
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Hey Jason.. Mel knows which wires are which, on the fuel selector valve. The connector that hooks to it has the wires, that go to the gauge. If you take out the fuel selector valve, you will need to connect the wires from your new rear tank to the gauge. The only wiring you will need to do will be right at the place where your FSV used to be.
 

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