Here are the details on rebuild.
Bored out .030, new pistons, new rings, new bearings,(rod, main, cam), and line bored & rotating assembly was/is balanced.
Heads have already been rebuilt, new valves, guides, seats, milled, new valve seals.
NOW THIS IS MY OPINION/PRACTICE
Ok so essentially a remaned engine. Based on this the potential for contaminants in the engine is quite high, small machining particles and so forth I tend to take a different route on things.
One practice is some good loades short bursts of power under load, up hill, and down hill preferably, getting RPM's varying as others have mentioned.
The KEY, is that I'll only do this for a short run then drop oil and filter and change again, that is unless you have a bypass with Uber fine filtration, such as down to 1 Micron.
If no bybass, then drop oil/filter and replace, this helps to quickly get any contaminates out ASAP. I can hear naysayers but this is ME...
Then run 1500 miles max do it again, but now you run hard, and always vary RPM never letting idle, no drive through coffee. This engine needs to work and rest work and rest, not setting at one RPM for long, start with ton of weight for few hundred miles watch temps/pressure and increase load over time.
At 1500 miles drop oil/filter and then good to run to 3K still working hard.
As we don't use a flat tappet solid/hyd cam the initial break in can be extended to 150 miles instead of 20 minutes.
AGAIN THIS IS JUST ME!!!!!
Another couple questions along the "break-in" thought.
Machine shop guys said do this for about 100-150 miles???? Thoughts on that..???
I have to replace 2 of the wrist pin bushings, had a spot on both that was broken or "notched" out.(post pics later)
I'm in a spot where I could pull the 6 piston/rods out and replace them all...????
Outside of using a "mic" on em any way of knowing if they are bad..???
I'm just not clear on what you are saying or not saying here so no comment
JM2CW
Al