Bought a Facet Dura-lift 20331 -- Will it work?

ormgott

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Bought a Facet Dura-lift pump for my '86 F-250 with '92-1/2 7.3 NA IDI. It was running fine after I bought it, then just didn't want to start. I've installed a Schrader valve in place of the ball valve the PO had installed. I get fuel out of the valve when cranking, but I believe someone said there should be some pressure after you stop cranking? Definitely don't have that and it takes a short cranking to get the fuel. I can also get fuel at input to IP, but don't seem to get it at the injectors. Hate to run the starter and batteries excessively, so that's why I'm going with the Facet pump. After reading a few posts, I'm wondering if it's going to be producing too high pressure. If so, is there an easy way to install a pressure regulator, say on the filter input or output? If so, does anyone have a specific part number?

Seachoice 20331 Dura-Lift Electronic Fuel Pump, Solid State Construction, 120 Inches Lift, 11.5-9 PSI, 33 GPH
 

Clb

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Keep reading!
We answer this monthly!
Answer is
MAYBE.
Mine has been replaced.
Buy an oem ford mechanical unit.
 
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Cubey

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It should still run, but it might not properly.

I didn't check my RV's fuel pressure before pulling the leaking mechanical fuel pump, but a new Holly Red electric pump, putting out about 7psi at the factory fuel filter valve, threw off the IP timing so much that the top end speed/power is gone. It tops out at 55-60mph even with the pedal to the floor with 5psi pressure. It wasn't like that before. I removed the valve core from the filter head and pushed on the hose for the HFT fuel pressure test gauge, then zip tied the gauge to the cowl, so I could see the pressure while driving.

You can see the gauge doesn't hardly drop below 5psi even the pedal to the floor, so it's getting plenty of fuel, yet on that pretty flat mile of interstate that I merge onto, I was maxed out at 55-60.

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In my case, I bought a cheap Mr Gasket dial pressure regulator to force the pressure down lower, but the Holly Red is within the max input pressure for the regulator. I have yet to test drive it with the regulator installed but I'm hoping that does the trick. I'm tempted to leave the regulator on there set to 3 or 4psi and have the timing checked/adjusted at that pressure since it allows me to play with the pressure/timing in 0.5psi amounts with the regulator I have. It's easier to do that than to find someone randomly who can time it for me if something goes screwy.
 
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