Manual downshifting gives some engine braking. You still have to brake some, but not nearly as much.
Heavy duty shoes at retail prices are $60-80. Online, they are $32.
Well ok, looks like you got all the answers
Carry on sir!
Manual downshifting gives some engine braking. You still have to brake some, but not nearly as much.
Heavy duty shoes at retail prices are $60-80. Online, they are $32.
Drum brakes are out of sight and out of mind. The brass rivets will contact the drum long before the lining is gone. Those brass rivets will silently carve groves in the drum deep enough that the drum cannot be saved by turning it.
My IDI is a 9K# dually. The bonded rear brake shoes are from NAPA, about $60. I can lock the rear wheels any time I chose - not that you should, I am just saying that they work.
Since most of us also have pads, there are a couple things to consider. I have a 2001 E350 with four wheel disks. The first pads I put on it chattered when hot. The next set faded. The current set is Ford, that don't do either of the previous things but don't stop very well any time.
Pads now have a two letter friction rating printed on them. The first letter is friction force when cold and the second letter is when hot. FF is about as good as you will generally find available. This is something I just learned at AAPEX 2019. So far I have not found a retail seller that knows the code exists.
So really, the bearings getting torqued to about 70, backed off and locked with washer nd outer nut. So... 70, backed off, then retorqued to 18 for a ratcheting nut sounds right to me.
You mentioned D80. Are you working a D80 or D70. Both my E350s have D70 bus rear ends.
You CAN over tighten tapered roller bearings. You are adjusting it cold, it will warm and expand a bit.
If you have ratcheting nuts, you have better control if you have a proper wrench. Both mine use a spanner.
I use a short handle wrench and tighten as much as I can with one hand while rolling. That is probably not over ten ft-lb. That aligns the bearing with the race. I then gently back it off until trying to move the top of the wheel in and out I feel a slight bit of play, and then re-tighten until the play is just gone.
On my bus I once had a wheel shear all eight, 9/16 studs. I got it to a Loves, and a big rig mechanic helped me repair it. He put a dial indicator on the wheel and adjusted for 0.001 inch play.