Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder

[riotwarrior]

I am just curious when ya'll got this huge bleeder issue, why not take the damn MC and slave OFF the truck as a set....then do this in the comfort of a shop with a vice and bleed it.

Or .....OR...take one of these...http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140620 fill the MC remove the slave from the mount (BUT LEAVE LINES CONNECTED)...pump fluid into the MC and while the slave is IN hand, crack the bleeder holding the slave higher than MC and rotating it so bleeder is highest all the while working it around to get all the air out....dunno..just thinking out loud here guys but sometimes the simplest is to just go outside the norm.

 

[hesutton]

I am just curious when ya'll got this huge bleeder issue, why not take the damn MC and slave OFF the truck as a set....then do this in the comfort of a shop with a vice and bleed it.

Or .....OR...take one of these...http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140620 fill the MC remove the slave from the mount (BUT LEAVE LINES CONNECTED)...pump fluid into the MC and while the slave is IN hand, crack the bleeder holding the slave higher than MC and rotating it so bleeder is highest all the while working it around to get all the air out....dunno..just thinking out loud here guys but sometimes the simplest is to just go outside the norm.

That's the way I like to do it.........See post #13.



Heath

 

[93turbo_animal]

I beleive everyone acts differently as I tried everyones method except the power brake bleeder here on my truck and none of them worked. I finally ended up pushing the pedal down and my dad wedged a board between the clutch fork and the bellhousing holding the clutch fork back then I let up on the pedal and pushed it back down again moving the clutch fork a little more and my dad added another shim to hold the fork back then I let the pedal up and pushed it down again which was now hold the clutch fork back far enough to let me shift gears so we removed the boards to let the clutch fork return all the way and when I let the pedal up it blowed all the air out of the master cylinder. I refilled with fluid and all was good after a week of trying all these other methods including just driving it to work the air out. I started this method with typical bleading till there was no air in the master or line

 

[OnDaRoad]

Just did complete clutch job in my 1990 F350 - this is what worked for me ....

Just did a complete clutch job in my 1990 F350
including the master & slave cylinders ...

When the clutch was previously replaced, I replaced the
master - slave - connecting tube at that time so
I did not replace the tube this time ....

After reading everything I could find ......

On the master - the small reinforcing firewall plate
had been previously installed & I had no cracking
so even though I had bought a large reinforcing plate
from the member here that makes them - I did not install it

My bushing was not worn - my connecting rod to
the clutch pedal not ovallled out ....

I found that the same manufacturer made the
plastic master & slave cylinders - so whoever
you buy from - you are paying more or less
for the same thing ......

I tried everything & decided the best way for me
was to install the master - install the slave out of the box
as it comes - fill the master with fluid - open the slave allen screw
and let it gravity bleed a few times without touching the clutch pedal
at all - then fill the master so it is just about halfway up the
neck - insert the boot - pump the f*ck out of it about 20 times
and then open the master cap - remove the boot watch for
air bubbles - add fluid as needed - repeat the process again
and intermittently go and open the slave allen and let it gravity
bleed without touching the clutch to let the air out - the fluid
will dribble out with air - after doing this several times and
with no air visible in the master cylinder fill neck your clutch
should operate o.k.



Jim