bleeding cooling system,priming fuel and lube oil systems?

[oldoiler]

I finally got the replacement6.9 installed in my f250. This engine came from a van. I had to remove the oilcooler to remove the van motor mount. I replaced it with the truck oilcooler since it was off anyway. My service manual says to bleed the cooling system and prime the lube oil system after such a repair. I have no info on how to do this. I have primed gas engines lube oil systems by removing the dist. and running the oil pump through the dist drive.can't do this on a diesel. This is the only diesel vehicle i have owned that doesn't have a manual priming lever or plunger pump to prime/bleed fuel oil system. Any way other than to crank engine over with starter? please advise. Thanks

 

[budtoh3zo]

To bleed fuel hold open the shurder valve on the fuel filter housing and crank till u get fuel coming out, then crack all ur injector lines then crank till fuel starts coming out them tighten and do that till all are tightned, but dont crank more the 45 sec then cool for a couple min. Oil i think just unplug the FSS and crank till u get oil pressure again rember dont over crank

 

[geonc]

As afar as the cooling system, there is a ball in the t/stat hsg that is "supposed" to bleed the system.....if the ball is pitted/stuck etc... it will do no good, SO...being "old school" I have allways stressed that to properly bleed the system, fill as normal till safe to start....loosen the highest hose clamp in the system-usually the heater hose at the core{firewall} and that will purge the system of air.

Water pumps will not move liquid if there is air trapped in the system!

OR if you have a flush and fill tee, you can bleed the air from there.

Oil...just fill your filter of choice- preferably a Motorcraft FL 1995 -
about 3/4 full. This will take a couple trys as the media will saturate.....don't forget to wipe some oil on the gskt! Start with 9 qts in the pan and top off as nesc...{I forget the exact oil capacity of the IDI- sorry}

Don't bother filling the filter full....you will only prime your armpit when you try and install it

Fuel- if you are using the stock mechanical lift pump...fill the fuel filter with fresh diesel, spin on and it will be nesec to use the starter to purge the system....
Loosen all fuel lines at the nozzles and spin the eng over---
!!NO MORE THAN 30 sec with a couple mins cool down between trys.!!

If elec just install the filter, energise the fuel pump and crack the line at the inlet side of the IP...you will still need to loosen the lines at the nozzles however to purge.

Snug the lines when you see fuel spurting out.
By now the oil gallies will be full enough so that when it does catch and sputter, you can slightly speed the eng up to help move fuel thru.

There will be ALOT of white smoke...this should dissapate with a n air free system

It will prolly be nesc to loosen each fuel line individualy to further purge and see if that particular cyl is firing.

It may take a couple tries and my way surely isn't the best but I've had my hands in quite a few diesels and you would prolly chit yourself if you saw my way

Hope some of this helps

 

[towcat]

I. My service manual says to bleed the cooling system and prime the lube oil system after such a repair. I have no info on how to do this. I have primed gas engines lube oil systems by removing the dist. and running the oil pump through the dist drive.can't do this on a diesel.

if you already have the engine installed,don't worry about priming the oiling system. All you can do is crank the heck out of it. The oil pump is gear drive off the crank and the oil level should be high enough for the pump to pick up prime pretty quick. If I changed out the oil pump in the past, I opened up the cover and packed it with vaseline so I can be sure it picked up prime. BTW the pickup tube is 1" in dia., the idea for these motors is volume not pressure. In fact don't be too alarmed of low idle pressure.