What do you guys think of the 200amp 3g alternator here:
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Ford.html
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Ford.html
Better alternator from nationsautoelectric?
- Thread starter bjorkmae
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
I'm thinking you better have some good belt to spin that thing, for instance I could run an alt like that in my truck cause I have my belts set up to where the middle belt can drive either the vacuum pump or double up on the alternator (one V-belt is good for about 100 amps), but most V-belt arrangements ain't like that, and I don't know how the already-problematic serpentine-belt setup will handle the load the 200-amp alt will put on it at full field.
diesel4me2
Camping is more importanter!
i'm running a 200 amp alt with a serpentine belt. they under size the pully to run at a faster speed. i'm putting out over 100 amps at idle. 200 around 1900 rpm. haven't had a problem with it in over a year, till last night. went full wave on me and blew both my head light filaments. apparently they don't like 18 volt spikes
. reved the engine up to around 2200 and it dropped back down to 14 volts. 
time for a new voltage regulator i guess.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
I'd think you'd be fine...how often would it see 200 AMPS? Not often I'm guessing...diesel4me2's is still getting even for side stepping the clutch!
subliminal
Full Access Member
i too was thinking about rigging a long ass belt for the ps pump/alt/vac pump and double up on the inner pulley as well. not sure how you rigged yours up? were you talking about removing the ps belt from the ps pump for emergency so you can keep the alt going if you break the alt belt? i was looking and it woudl be a rediculously long v belt to drive it on the ps pump/alt but i think i have seen them long enough. i would think teh laternator bearing might get pissed though? what do you think? i have considered converting it to serp since i have a serp equipped parts truck but i like the v belt setup so far.
I ask because I have 67.5 amps of power being used by my 2-100watt fuel line heaters, 240watt double fuel filter head heater and my 370watt tank heater all for WVO and with everything on and cruising the volt gauge sits between the O and R of the NORMAL label and without them on it sits between the A and L. This test was done on fully charged 2 month old batteries with the head lights on and the blower on full. I figure a 200Amp alternator is 70Amps above stock so it would make up for the difference. Any other brands some one would suggest that would be a direct bolt on.
gatorman21218
Registered User
just my humble opinion but for 300 bucks i could find a nice generator and mount it in the back of the truck
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
I have no A/C no more, and I moved the whole power steering pump and brackets 3/4" forward so its pulley lines up with the front set of pulley grooves on the crank and water pump pulleys. So now I have my front belt running between the crank, water pump, and power steering, then my middle belt runs between crank, water pump, and vacuum pump, and finally my rear belt runs between the alternator and water pump only. If I went with a big-power alternator I'd have to lose the vacuum pump and convert to electric one, and then buy two new factory alternator belts and run them around the crank water pump, and alternator pulleys - which would likely cause the belt slap we all know of, but with the vacuum pump gone there will be plenty of space for an idle pulley to support them.
memphisrain
Full Access Member
I would try here: http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/
They seem to be a little cheaper than the place you linked to and they have a one year warranty on everything. They also have a 260 amp for the same price as the site you listed. You just need to get a case with 8.25" ear spacing.
mR
They seem to be a little cheaper than the place you linked to and they have a one year warranty on everything. They also have a 260 amp for the same price as the site you listed. You just need to get a case with 8.25" ear spacing.
mR
CDX825
filtration nut
So much cheaper to just do it yourself. Scroll to the bottom of the page and check out the 200 amp rectifier.
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=7
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=7
diesel4me2
Camping is more importanter!
didn't think about that aspect of it
thats the place i used
what about the windings? sure, you could step up the rectifier, but if the windings cant handle the amps, you might end up with a pile of melted goo
NJKen
is a daddy!
Thats kinda my take too since the diodes are not the limiting factor. You can put a 200 amp rectifier on a 130 amp winding and get 130amps..... You need more copper for more power. its just not that simple.
Ken
what do you guys think of this one its only $137 plus shipping? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0ffbb6d0e&rvr_id=&ua=WVF?&itemid=290366770446
NJKen
is a daddy!
Seems legit. As long as hes not blowing smoke about it being made in US go for it. China knockoffs do suck big time.
Ken
Ken
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