Axle is out, leaking oil looks odd...see pictures

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Never had to remove one of the sleeves.
But that's what it is.
Someone should be along shortly.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Looking here: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/rear-axle-seal-98685/
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to scratch or gouge the seal or bearing surfaces.

If after hub removal, the hub seal or seal inner sleeve remains on the spindle, remove it as shown using the Step Plate and the 2-Jaw Puller.

Inspect the seal surface and inner shoulder for scratches and damage.
Perhaps that is just part of the standard seal?

I am not sure I want to remove if it is a quick sleeve (or speedi-sleeve like here: http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/sleeve01/) because that might mean it is covering a really bad spot on the tube, correct?

Thanks again for taking the time to help me get through this...
 

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Ok. I am a bit confused, pardon the questions/statements to clarify.

We have talked about this being both a sleeve or the inner part of a standard seal. Is there a way to identify which one this is?

I ask because the sleeve would indicate damage to the tube that I need to learn about and take into account. If it is just the inner part of the standard seal, then I think I can use the scotseal plus that I picked up based on the common indications across many threads.

Thanks!
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Far as I know, the sleeve is the inner part of the scotseal plus.
But just because it's there, doesn't mean it's worn.
Personally, I like the two piece bearing type seal.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Progress, items to replace?

1) Axle out - DONE
2) Hub off - DONE
3) Outside wheel bearing - DONE
4) Axle seal Off - Done
5) Need outer bearing - Yes, see pic
6) Need inner bearing - Maybe
7) Gouge in hub, above where bearings sit, see picture. The metal piece from the outer bearing was near the axle seal, maybe it caused the gouge?

This is the piece of metal that was between the axle seal and the inner wheel bearing
You must be registered for see images attach


This is where I think it came from, outer bearing:
You must be registered for see images attach



Given these pictures (everything else is smooth):
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


I know I need to replace the outer bearing
1) Do I need to replace the inner bearing also?
2) Do I need to replace the hub or can i smooth that gouge just a bit?

Thanks,

David
 

towcat

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Posts
18,196
Reaction score
1,439
Location
SantaClara,Ca/Hamilton,TX
here's what I usually do.
remove ratchet nut and outer wheel bearing.
reinstall ratchet nut on spindle.
pull remaining hub asembly out past the outer race taking care not to nick or damage the race.
use the hub assy and rear wheel bearing against the ratchet nut as a slide hammer.
three or four wacks and the seal will pop out.
works for me every time.
 

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
1) Axle out - DONE
2) Hub off - DONE
3) Outside wheel bearing - DONE
4) Axle seal Off - DONE
5) New Bearings - DONE
6) Installation - Pending

The new inner bearing did not come with a new race, the one in there seems smooth, should I have a new race also? Hoping not as only auto zone and pep boys are still open, and I dont have any tools to press it in or out anyway. If it helps on the need to replace, remember the pieces of the outer bearing. I can upload a pic too if that helps..

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Ok, so the decision has been determined for me on the outer race, it was chewed up in places by the failing bearing, so will be replacing that one at least.

Once I had all the grease off, saw a scratch in the hub, perhaps from the same bits of metal? To my finger, is not very deep, perhaps 64th or 100th of an inch.

Is this bad enough to replace the hub also?
 

Attachments

  • 20140803_190207.jpg
    20140803_190207.jpg
    117.7 KB · Views: 60

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Ok, I have looked around on the chance that I might need a hub and sure hope I wont as that seems like it would be a stealership part only, cant find that at napa, o'reilly or autozone.

Hopefully since that that is not in the area where the bearings are, it wont matter...
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Can't tell for sure, but I don't think anything rides there at all. (Been awhile since I had mine apart)
But looks like it could've just been from the nut removal, pulling the shaft, etc.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

davlun

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Posts
104
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Thanks for the quick reply. I dont think it was me, but is possible I did not secure it well enough when pulling it off. I have never had it off, never done this before, so your memory has been pretty good so far...

I put the axle up to the hub, I am not certain there is any contact between parts there. Think I should wait for someone else to chime in, or just go for it?
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
482
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
Just a matter of course, always replace races when replacing a bearing, on a second note, that hub is fine!

Use a punch to drive out old race, grind it on the outter circumference all around, then use it once it just fits into the hub to pound in the NEW race this protects the new race by beating on the old one! Hope that makes sense...it does in my head cause I gone dun it 100's of times.

E D I T..

On a second note, some may dissagree, however I'm of the pack these full float bearings in grease and lightly grease the races, this protects the bearings for the initial torque setting and running once you button it all up and fill the diff with a quality lube, preferrably a synthetic especially if a posi.

JM2CW
 
Top