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RLDSL

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Is there any concerns to switching to a synthetic engine oil after running reg oil, like leaks?

Jim

Best way to fend that off is to run a couple of treatments of auto rx ahead of time to clean the thing out and condition the seals ahead of time so you don't have to wait for the synthetic to do it. That stuff does wonders for old seals.


As far as the zinc
Everyone off the panic wagon :eek:
The big point of concern is for flat tappet engines running at really...REALLY high rpms when they hit points of oil starvation where there is NO oil the zinc residue remains and protects. We have low rpm roller lifters with a very good high volume lubricating system

The chances of even regular Delo etc running any parts dry below governed speed are pretty slim I just don't see how you ever could with the design.It's under constant positive pressure . With a quality synthetic, forget any metal contact.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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MOTOR OIL IS MOTOR OIL

Here is a post with some links to some of the good oil hold-outs :


http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showpost.php?p=2073617&postcount=9


Here is a thread with quite a bit of input on the subject :

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=136899


I bought John Deere oil in five-gallon buckets, enough to change three trucks, at about $63 per pail.

Since then, a wholesale delivery/distributor has stopped by and offered to set off the CI-4 Kendall at my door for about $48 per pail.

I may go this route on account of he also carries Kendall Super-Blu in pails and tubes.;Sweet
 

jimraelee

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I recently read an article in HotRod, ( or one of my car rags) about the change in oils... this article started because of 2 cams in new engines going flat... cant seem to find the article now.. but yup basically because of new emissions they are changing what goes in oils... also most newer engines are roller cam so less friction less lubricants are needed.
 

RLDSL

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Another thing that you have to remember is that zinc is one of the things that was put in to remedy the problems of some of the early engines not only the ones with solid lifters , but ones that had splash lubrication systems instead of pressurized systems , which used to be on some motorcycles and you still have on a lot of mowers and generators and you can run dry for spells on steep inclines.

These are the types of applications that I would be worrying about zinc in the oil.

About the only way I would be worrying about an IDI is if it was such a leaker or burner that it got down to the oil light flickering point on a regular basis :D
 

lotzagoodstuff

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FYI, here's a good link that was forwarded to me from a Lubrizol employee concerning CI-4 and CJ-4 specs. He told me Lubrizol spent lots of time and money meeting the spec while still offering good wear for the old stuff, and that if it makes you feel better you can shorten your oil change interval, but that overall we shouldn't be that worried this spec.

Pretty interesting reading if you like chemistry I guess.

http://www.lubrizol.com/CJ-4/faq.asp
 

rubberfish

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Maybe Lucas will gain popularity because it clings to the moving parts between engine shutdown and startup??? I usually use it anyhow in summer months.
I use it all year round, and in everything I drive/ride/crash.
From the truck, all the way down to the mini bikes/trike. :Thumbs Up
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Personally, I'm a Shaeffers fan

http://www.schaefferoil.com/



I, too, would be a Schaeffers fan, if I could get the stuff without having to drive three counties over and deal with no-phone horse and buggy never at home when you call Amish/Menonites.

Funny thing is, the three closest Schaeffers dealers are still not actually close to me, and not really close to anywhere that I would have reason to pass through, and all three are Amish/Menonite that don't even have vehicles; and, it is not at all unusual, after making a special trip, to find no one around on account of they are off in the next county raising a barn or somesuch.:dunno
 

Exekiel69

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I have a question, if switching to synthetic eliminate the need for sync then why not just use the same 15-40w motorcraft? It is mostly synthetic now isn't it?

Thank You.
 

RLDSL

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I have a question, if switching to synthetic eliminate the need for sync then why not just use the same 15-40w motorcraft? It is mostly synthetic now isn't it?

Thank You.

I'm not up on the specifics of the motorcraft formula, but it's a safe bet that it's a hydrocracked petrolium if there's any synthetic in it, l;ike most low end synthetics, which are a far cry from the high end synthetics.
 

Exekiel69

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I'm not up on the specifics of the motorcraft formula, but it's a safe bet that it's a hydrocracked petrolium if there's any synthetic in it, l;ike most low end synthetics, which are a far cry from the high end synthetics.

Ok You know much more about engine oil than I do, You mean that even a half synthetic is still no good right?

I'm not using motorcraft on the 5.9l ctd I thought about delo400 (sp?) but You guys are saying is no good either right.

So the only way to go would be something like amsoil or the oil with the sync in it?

how about using some lucas with the regular oil, will this oil stabilizer make up for the lack of sync?
 

RLDSL

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Ok You know much more about engine oil than I do, You mean that even a half synthetic is still no good right?

I'm not using motorcraft on the 5.9l ctd I thought about delo400 (sp?) but You guys are saying is no good either right.

So the only way to go would be something like amsoil or the oil with the sync in it?

how about using some lucas with the regular oil, will this oil stabilizer make up for the lack of sync?

As far as motorcraft or any other dino oils having synthetic in them, if there was a significant enough amount to make a difference, theyy would be labeling them as a synthetic blend,( which aren't half bad options for those wanting more protection, but happen to have an oil burner and don't want to break the bank) but since they are not labeled as a blend, it's pretty safe to conclude that at most there is a synthetic additive, and not enough to make the kind of difference to compensate for the lack of zinc in dry run situations.
Flip side of this is that with the roller cams in these engines, and the fact thet by now, most have had head work done and are running the umbrella seals on the exhaust valvesso the guides do run dry , there really isn't any place in the engine that is prone to the kind of dry run situation that zinc would make a difference on, unless you are really winding the thing out hard, I suppose there's always a possibility, which is why a high end synthetc is the safest bet, since they have a habit of hanging on better in the first place, and one like the Amsoil 15w40 diesel and marine was kept to the old spec for older engines so it has the best of all worlds for older engines ( and the older spec synthetics have zinc in them as well ), their newer lighter diesel oils are set to the new spec, but being what they are, any of the high end synthetics are going to protect better than a dino oil with zinc, it just becomes a question of how great is great. You are basically comparing apples to oranges trying to compare any high end synthetic to any dino oil.

For normal running, I wouldn't be concerned about running Delo . with the lubrication systems in these things, it just shouldn't be a problem. even the dino oil that's out now is a far cry from what was spece'd for the engine when it was built. it's just a matter of how much better protection would you like than that.
 

Devilish

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I was looking at oils at Walmart and discovered that their house 15/40 diesel oil is ci compliant but not cj. This could be a great cheap oil for us.
 

tractorman86

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i was at a freightliner shop yesterday and looked at a delvac bottle and it said CI-4, maybe delvac is the one to run when it comes to dino oils.
 

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