Anyone got a spare FIPL control....

CaptTom

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See that little !@#$%$$$%!!!!! set screw? There's two of them. Used heat, iced at 500*, penetrant....yadayadayada, bent three allen wrenches in the process....sawzawl and dynamite next.... of course I'll still need one.

Anyone have a spare or know a good source for one?

I'd rather not drill and retap next up.

THX
 

Agnem

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Patience and determination and you should be able to get it out intact.
 

CaptTom

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Patience my a$$!!!! :eek: :rolleyes:

Well, three 3/32" allens and this:

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Realize, I live 12 miles from the nearest tool place, and if they don't have it, trekking off into the circle of hide-n-go-seek. :mad:

I may have had better luck with a paper clip!!

Anyhow, the above photo is the result of the "final" set screw "breaking" loose! First one almost broke it, second one did, but both sets finally broke lose, used one of my bent ones to tighten them back in.....sheeesh!


Here's the end result:

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The new is a Uhaul.

Interesting thing, when I got the old IP off, it was hard to turn the pump, then I twisted it backwards/forwards/back/for/ and it started moving freely and spun like it wanted to pump again. Sumpthin gave up inside. I drained the input side and squirted a little diesel up in there to free up dirt in the IP filter, nothing came out.... weird.

There is a throttle assembly difference though. Not too worried, but may have to duct tape it all together....eeerr... modify it a little.

Injectors Typ4 sent me will go in first. Pulled the old ones, #8 had a lot of rust along the injector body, water obviously sat on the valve cover too, slow leak/weep. This truck is a low miles sitter, so in any water accumulation, it had time to weep.

Injectors #'s 1,3,5,7 all were wet when I pulled, with bubbles leaking out of the pintle and copper washer area.. #'s 2,4,6,8 were all dry. All had typical soot on the tip, but the tips actually looked pretty sharp and seated. No carbon beyond the tips on any injector, all coppers looked brand new too.

All the injectors were made by CAV in England. The only thing that made sense to codes were pass side all had "DH" and the drivers side had "CH". The only thing that made them different or indicated a letter code. It was stamped on the body under the 1" installation nut, along with the part number. Nothing above. Hadn't seen that code series before in discussions. BB's will go in tonight.

Is there a torque value for the injectors? Or snug and a quarter/ half turn? Do we use anti-seize at the block on these injectors?

Thanks for the help fellas!

These things really are pretty easy to work on... better than being wedged between hot engines any day!
 

gandalf

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Mel wrote a very good article- we should all read it periodically. I printed the appropriate section and kept it handy when I changed out the IP and the injectors.;Sweet
 

CaptTom

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I knew that!! I have the copy sitting in the front seat of the truck. :rolleyes: LOL cookoo

See, here it is right here!

"Apply a graphite based anti seize compound to the injector threads and carefully thread the injectors into the injector bores. Tighten the injectors to 33 foot pounds."

LOL LOL LOL

Besides cussing at set screws yesterday, finished the guest bathroom. I suppose I'm lucky I didn't try to use DAP 3.0 Crystal White silicon to seal in the injectors. :rolleyes: cookoo

Here's what I'm really waiting for though.... to be able to finally use that wicked awesome custom IP wrench!! Although, the old IP was set to the marks IE; mark to mark, so unless there's some IP line tension to overcome, should be a snap without it. At least I'll have a reasonable starting point. Once it's up and running, I'll have to get in-line for one of Gary's meter's, although if he's willing, I may visit him and pay him to do it directly.... he's only a few hours away. Plus the trip will give me a good base line of fuel consumption, going and coming back.... see if it made a difference!

Thanks again for the encouragement and great links you have around here. New systems are so much easier with data link you've got around here. Great stuff!!


EDIT: Almost forgot!! An alternative wrench to use when digging for those 3 buried IP adjustment bolts is a 90* open end wrench... worked great! I have a set of those for just these moments. No need to customize your favorite 9/16 box end moon or serpentine wrench. Looks like this:

http://www.waters.com/waters/partDetail.htm?partNumber=WAT096148&locale=en_US

I have a set from 1/4" up to 1". Don't use them much, but when I do, glad I have them!
 
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CaptTom

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If this dosn't work. Use a BFH. Fix it right up in a jiffy.;p:rotflmao

Hence my initial instinct to use dynamite!!!!

Of course didn't find any laying around, which saved myself from myself.
 

trackspeeder

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For precision work I prefer a 20lb hammer. Fixes anything.:D

General repairs a spike maul is perfect. I have a few hammers for general repairs.:rotflmao
 

CaptTom

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I'm going to use a 5 lber to reinstall it. I'll letcha know how it goes. lol
 

OLDBULL8

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Just curious. Did you try tightening it before loosening the set screw. A screw will form microscopic C's on them, depending on the fit and lube used to install them nif any. A dry fit is the worst, tightening first will break those little C's and or rust sometimes. :dunno ;Really :D

But you do take good clear pictures.
 

CaptTom

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Yes I did, however, the 3/32 Allen is such a small gauge wire, it just bent. When I bought the socket style hex, being much shorter made it stiff,gave it some muscle. On the second set, it did break the tip, probably because when the set broke free, my hand went sideways.

Those little buggers where in tight.

Rethinking, I may pull it again and just redrill to upsize sets for any future fights with it.

Still on the bench, been busy last two days. Had hoped it to be on yesterday. Two more hours before home tonight... So no joy yet.
 

Agnem

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You could put a little anti-sieze on them... wouldn't hurt. I agree most of them, when they turn it is with a distinct "snap".
 

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