99 4x4 5 speed 53 series block cracked

[Camarogenius]

Any of you that go to the IDI page know that I've been hunting for a cummins for a while.
I found a pristine truck, in great shape, well maintained, low mileage, just one problem. There's a crack in the block. I know this can be fixed, but if I fix it, will it crack again?
The dfealer gave me a price far enough under the loan value to get a new short block for it if I want to, but if this is the only weak spot on the block, I'd rather just fix what's there and keep my payments low.
What's the general opinion?

 

[rubberfish]

If you think have room in your life for another
headache, then go for it. You can stitch it, and
put it all back together, then you'll be experianced
enough to pull it out again and replace the block. And then,
right after that, when you're good and broke, the VP44
will fail so you can spend another couple grand. If you're
sure you want a 24V, do yourself a huge favour,
and at least stay away from a 53 block. You know better.

 

[Mike]

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[rubberfish]

 

[Camarogenius]

That's kinda what I'm thinking. I really want a 12 valve, but those are hitting 200,000 miles now.
This next truck, whatever I buy is going to need to last me until the kids are grown. 15, 13 1/2, almost 12, and 8.

 

[Splash]

Hey Camoragenuis,
If you look hard enough and don't mind waiting, you are always bound to find something. That is how I picked up mine. I just wish I hadn't gotten into a minor fender bender while X-mas shopping last night. Well, have a Happy and Merry Christmas.

 

[J.Keith]

Hey, 24 valves are cool

BUT!!!! I wouldn't buy one with a cracked 53 block unless I could get it WAY WAY WAY under book. Don't try to fix the block if you do buy that truck. Get a new short block, get it o-ringed and slap that baby in. Redo the fuel delivery system with a FASS or RASP or somthing like that and you'll be good to go.

I have 2 24 valve trucks and I've done a VP in each of them. But only once apiece and they are both WELL over 200k miles and I bought them both used. Hell the work truck has just over 300k.

Get the price WAY down if everything else on the truck is good and go for it!

 

[Camarogenius]

See that's the thing. The rest of this truck is showroom perfect! Never smoked in, The textbook old man's truck. 80,000 miles on it. Gawd, that sounds like my IDI when I bought it, with 68,000 on it.
The dealer says he's way upside down in this thing, with what he gave for trade in, plus paying it off, he claims to have over 20,000 in it. Car dealers, I know.
But he'll sell it to me for 7,000 under wholesale. With that mileage, I can finance 17,500 no prob. That's without trading in the IDI. If I were to borrow the full 17,500 I could get a new shortblock professionally installed, maybe even in the dealers shop, and still have a little left for goodies like a push bar, and Alcoa wheels. I've been hunting for a Cummins for a couple months now, ever since the IDI started nickel and diming me, and this is the best deal I've run across. I've found other trucks for the same money, but with 200,000 on them. The bank won't touch that mileage.

 

[rubberfish]

I've found other trucks for the same money, but with 200,000 on them. The bank won't touch that mileage.

I'm guessing then, that you haven't told them the
one they're financing is blowed up real good.

 

[Camarogenius]

That's why I said I could borrow the whole loan value, and have a new short block installed. Then I've basically got a brand new truck. I'm going to dig around a bit, and figure out the truth of this injector pump problem. I've been told that replacing the lift pump solves the problem.

 

[rubberfish]

What happens is the lift pump fails, which causes
the VP44 to pull fuel in order to run. The VP44 can
only do this for a VERY short time before the damage
is done. The norm is, an owner replaces the lift pump
after discovering that it's no longer working, and shortly
after they need to replace the injector pump which
was damaged during the time the lift pump was shot.
Just be prepared for this to happen, even if you put
in a fuel pressure gauge, which I strongly recommend,
and it says you currently have good fuel pressure.
It won't tell you what was going on when it was the
old man's truck. A good after market lift pump and
fuel pressure gauge are a must, right away, regardless.

 

[Camarogenius]

What years is this a problem with?(The whole liftpump/injection pump thing) After a long coversation with my step father last night, (who welds and machines blocks for U.P.), he'd rather co-sign for me, so I can stretch the payments out on something nicer, that isn't broke down when it shows up.
So, my list of candidates has expanded somewhat, with the possibility of financing for 6 years.

 

[Whit]

any and everything you need to know bout the 53 right here

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

[rubberfish]

What years is this a problem with?(The whole liftpump/injection pump thing)

98.5 - 2002 are the years affected.

In 03 they change again to a common rail.
An 04 is a good choice for those to avoid
troubles they had for the first year. A valve
seat or guide, not sure which, drops inside and
the piston has some difficulties compressing it.
Most belive that 94-98 are the best years.

 

[holtzer1]

man i shoulda sold my truck here