I did that, it doesn't click. Then I took the cap off, and moved the plunger on the solenoid. I connected it straight to a 12v battery, no click. I did buzz a little like it wanted to move though. I'm trying to sell the truck before my bills overcome me so I'm just going to buy a new unit off of...
Yeah I was hoping the <$50 range. It buzzed a little when 12v was applied with the cap off. I'll try and take it off completely and clean it with some carb cleaner. Are they rebuildable?
Which of the two terminals is the on/off solenoid? The terminal closest to the front of the truck and to the check valve doesn't move when 12v is applied, but the one a little further towards the back of the cover does. Does anyone have a picture of the solenoids? I can identify them by looking...
Electric. I'm thinking I either forgot to switch it back on or that it wasn't running when I was getting on the interstate. :dunno
I recall now that when I was looking under the hood after it shut off that the clear hose going into the filter housing didn't have fuel in it.
So how long...
It started off with a loss of power, then it came back on like a surge. Then it was low on power and then just died. If it was a loss of fuel I probably didn't help the situation by leaving it in 5th as I coasted to the side of the road. :mad:
I forgot to mention that I've got a 50 gal tank on the flatbed. I've got about 15 gals of diesel in it so I don't think it ran out of fuel. It's possible that I may have forgotten to switch the pump back on when I stopped before I got on the interstate. :dunno I've run out of fuel before on this...
So I took my F-350 out for a drive to make sure it was running good before I sold it. It was driving great until I got on the interstate. About 1/4 mile down the interstate the truck shut off and I tried to pop the clutch to get it fired back up with no luck. I got the truck towed back home and...
I was burning some WMO that I suspect had a small amout of brake fluid in it. Other than a prematurely clogged filter it ran fine.
If you burned 5 gal, then topped off the tank, and repeated for a bit it would dilute a pint of brake fluid to practically nothing.
Yes, but I don't idle very long. I crank the truck up, let it warm up ~2-3 min at 1100rpms. Then I take off on my 5 min commute @ 2000 rpms in 5th. There are no lights or turns so I stay at a constant ~50mph Then I pull into my space and I let it sit idle for 30sec, and shut her down.
So...
I hate to do this but I'm selling my truck cause I need to raise money for a down payment on a house.
The truck is a 1988 Ford F-350 with a 7.3l International diesel engine and a 5 speed ZF trans with a 4.10 rear. Its got a 7.5'x11' steel flatbed with a flip up gooseneck hitch and a 2"...
Al - mine looks just like that, but it has a regulator where those three screws are.
Mr. Roboto - It's a Leece-Neville. I HAVE this 165a, and I don't have a 130a 3G. I found a pdf about my specific model, and it still puts out considerably more power than my stocker. It only has 2 big lug...
The vehicle I took it off of is long gone. It's okay, because I did some research and found that it's internally regulated and internally excited.
So all I have to do is run 4ga from the + to the isolator, and 4 ga from the - to ground.
What about the plug that I have? Should I just leave...
We've got a local u-pull-it that has a couple of SRW 3.55 rear axles (NO DRW! -cuss ) for $65.
I was thinking about swapping the whole thing on my truck from 4.10 to 3.55.
I had this problem this week too - all of a sudden it wouldn't turn over.
So I replaced the starter, and that wasn't it!
The batteries were fully charged, but I took them and got them tested, and they were only holding 650 cranking amps each! Apparently that wasn't enough to get the...
I picked up a 165a Alternator from the local u-pull-it for $12 :thumbsup:
It came from an old ambulance with an IDI. There are two huge lugs on it, but no other plugs that I saw, at least not like how it looks in the FAQ on the 130a writeup.
It's got the same bracket and twin v-belt...
I run 90/10 all the time. It takes two GP cycles to start in the morning, but if I plug in the block heater for 15-30min it'll fire right up. I have to run alot of errands, so I stop and start alot. Once the engine has warmed up in the morning, it starts no more difficult than on diesel.
But...
Is an electric fuel pump!
I had to take the truck to the dealership that my wife works at to get the waterpump replaced ($175 & another $180 to replace the clogged original radiator). Well once I got off the interstate, the truck died! I pulled over to check my clear piece of hose going into...
Took a look at it and it's the plastic piece that is jamming and causing the spring to stay compressed. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for cheap?
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