RD2-80cc pump is mounted. Thanks Justin.
The fuel rails have been as interesting as I expected. I’m going to try a new approach with the passenger bank.
1. With the injectors removed from the engine, gently plug each injector into the fuel rail
2. Similar to an injector thread protector...
Are you saying that the pump I have here is a factory reman pump?
I don’t know how the world of reman works, but I wonder if that means it came from older tractor cores (older than this 1989 van 7.3). That would be cool.
I’m told that the whole truck has 270k miles, but I know that the motor...
No sir, this truck showed up with a 6.9 and a T19. I grabbed the T19 and bellhousing to keep as a spare.
The hood was in incredible condition. I may be going back for it and the fenders, as I need one the driver side
A reduction in smoke could be an interesting test.
I’m putting an R&D IDI RD2-80 pump onto my 89 7.3 n/a van motor, and I don’t have a turbo for the engine at the moment. It’s in the works. A new kit is obscenely expensive and they’re only going up - I’m thinking about using the same amount of...
I bought Justin’s remaining RD2-80cc from this run. There are a few N/A pumps remaining as of this post.
I have a question: I’ll be running this RD2-80cc pump on an N/A truck, until I can turbo and stud the heads. If I keep my foot out of it and pump screw turned down, Will I run into any...
Reviving this thread because I found this:
There’s a Dyno tuner around the corner. It would be a fun test to answer the question of how does this air cleaner impact wheel numbers.
We Found another 86 at the Yard today and I saved the T19 from the crusher. No way I was going to try and wrestle with pulling the 6.9 that was still in the truck, but it looked like a core motor. I’m going back tomorrow to grab the injectors and other misc parts off of it like the intake...
If you’re ever in the South East VA section of the state, then I have a complete DTI timing Kit available to use for timing.
FWIW I bought a brand new cowl seal from rock auto for about $60 + shipping. Had to put my own silicone caulk sealant behind it for it to do anything.
I’m looking to be proactive with hunting down air intrusion in order to beat difficult hard starts. The check valve should prevent fuel drain back.
So I would think the best place to install a fuel check valve in these trucks would be in the soft fuel delivery line just before the lift pump...
There’s a good YT video of a guy using this brand and it’s easy to find if you want to try looking for it. He seems pleased. My first impressions of the pump are positive, and we’ll see how well it operates in action. @tbowker
The timing meter arrived today. I will see what I can get to this weekend. Depends on whether the truck decides it wants to play nice, too. The lift pump isn’t pushing fuel to the filter.
I swapped back to a lift pump and I’m coming from a cheap Amazon electric pump. The little $18 pump did...
I made the leap to buy a timing meter from tinytach - the Model 3300S full kit that should have it all. As Grandma always told us: Do it right the first time, and then you won’t do the job twice.
Amazon carries $80 injector pop testers with mixed reviews across all of the brands & models… so...
Update: the bypass valve on the first header was stuck. The spring wouldn’t compress before now
So, as final closure: if you’re blowing oil filters, pull the oil cooler and check the that the pressure bypass valve located in the rear header is compressing
Hope this helps someone else
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