@Wrenchmonkey316
Yes 6.0 Powerstroke trans cooler , no fan. Didn’t need it but I also don’t live in phoenix. I used it inline with the cooler in the radiator and the stock e4oD trans. I also made new trans lines because I didn’t like the routing.
I used air shocks on my buggy in the rear and they worked great for a year then they started leaking.
I used bags on the idi rear to help with the sag and stiffen the rear for when I had a lance on the back, 55 psi and they worked great but they made the ride terrible when the bed was empty...
Hello, I recently bought a 2008 dodge 4x4 six speed with 245k that needs front ball joints. I’ve done 2wd ford ball joints several times but just looking for any pointers on 4x4 setups.
Thanks in advance
Bought a dodge , night and day difference expecially braking.
I’ll come back one day for now couldn’t pass up a good deal. I still love IDITs just upgrading
@Thomas87 I just used the shape off the banks box and hole pattern for the cdr and then added a 1/2 long x 1” diameter stand off that I had welded to the tube to space out the plate.
When I get a chance I’ll take some more photos for details
For a 7.3 not 6.9 but same concept, for the first gen banks turbo
1. deleted the washer fluid container to fit the filter and made a mount/ heat shield
2. Hypermax intake
3. Generic 3 inch tubing and boots with intake clamps
4. Add a plated hole with threads to mount the breather on the intake...
tested the system loaded this weekend , worked perfect , had to make a small adjust and then after never went over 215. Picture is before the adjustment Holding at 220.
No IC and running 6lbs of boost
Egts at 1200
Loaded = camper + enclosed trailer
About 6500 lbs + truck
No issues happy with...
Yea Did the conversion works great!
I did add my own bracket for the plug to the fan shroud for piece of mind. (not in picture )
3 hours to install and took my time
Nice kit
@ISPKI yes the radiator has through holes for the clip/bolt style fasteners that mount it (in his photos).
Or rubber isolators
Usually there is paint covering the radiator support matting surface so then it’s only grounded with the OEM strap and whatever contact is made between the threads of...
I hope your running an extra ground strap to reduce electrolysis. Have you flushed the system yet? Another upgrade is to add a coolant filter.
Glad to hear it’s working good for your application
Will need a additional trans cooler and larger cooler lines if your going to tow heavy, expensive to fix at times and really could use a shift kit once you have all the TPS adjusted and other components as well
You need to watch the gauge as you pump the brakes and see if it drops (while the truck is running), buy some vacuum plugs at autozone and start plugging the manifold and isolate the one that’s leaking. If it’s the vacuum line to the booster then you found your problem
I second the test redneck says.
Sounds like your booster is failing
- If it took more than a minute to get to 23 psi you have a weak pump.
- Another test to run is how long your system holds vacuum after you turn the engine off.
I bought the energy suspension kit 2 years ago works fine , made a puller setup and it took half a day
Removes the body roll and raised the body almost 1/4 of an inch
Make sure you apply that silicone grease otherwise in 3 months you’ll be squeaking louder than the hotel bed on a Friday night
If your running the stock radiator it will be hard as far fitment up front for piping because the 6.0 IC is not as wide as the 7.3 radiator. If you can get your hands on used parts , the 6.0 radiator/ IC / trans cooler fit really nicely together. The only down fall is the 6.0 radiator is taller...
Don’t know the part number but I was at the junk yard one day and took off the wiper arms from a 1994 f250 (which are the J hook style ) and stuck them on my 91 f350 so I could run newer style blades
Not a bad design, I like having the filter tucked away so that I have room to work on the rest of the motor since I have a snail that sits on top already.
@Daniel McCurdy
How much vacuum did you have once you applied the brake ? You say you changed the booster but is the vac pump still the same?
A good test is to have the truck on and apply the break for 30 seconds or more and see if the pedal falls to the floor if it does bad booster (test the...
EGTs / Coolant temp / Trans temp (Auto only) / oil pressure
Yes you need to run power to the gauges separate from tapping into the relay for your running lights
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