Found this kit today. Looks like the best of both worlds. Lift pump will pull fuel through it when not in use. I can use it for priming the system after maintenance, and it will provide redundancy when the chinesium pump fails. Also provides a nice pre filter. This is the route I’m gonna go...
That’s some useful info, thanks! I was looking at cdd’s e-fuel kit looks well made but, the price is out of my budget. He’s got some nice stuff but, I still work for a living. Good to know I can get away with a Holley red and no regulator.
Yeah I have, that’s why I haven’t and don’t really want to go electric. None of the Ford dealerships around here have the original navistar pumps. Just curious if I am destined to just ride with a spare chinesium lift pump everywhere I go.
I had my second lift pump fail in about as many years. I had 6.5 psi at the head during this mornings preflight, which is what this pump has always read since new. Pulling my trailer on the highway, I noticed my filter light pulsating on during high engine load. I Pulled over to check it out and...
Looks like the camber bushing is already maxed out for camber in. If you’re certain that the ball joints are still serviceable, then you will need a new camber bushing with a more aggressive negative angle. One other possibility is that the ttb pivot bushing is shot.
Can a pair of barely visible milling marks that are parallel to each other running alongside the radius of a steel fitting give a false indication of a crack using eddy current for NDI?
It’s expensive but, Mobil SHC-100 is hands down the best wheel bearing grease I’ve ever used.
Mobil - SHC 100 Synthetic Aviation Grease, 4.4lb SHC100AVI4-4L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6BL44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0OoFbT9GX10S
Check the drive shaft hanger bearing for excessive wear. If it has thrust play or is binding replace it. Also make for certain your hubs aren’t locked. Auto hubs that don’t disengage will also cause a high speed vibration. Doesn’t have to be both, could be just one that’s stuck locked. Can you...
100000mi service life so a little over 160000km. Does seem a bit premature. Advance the timing to see if the symptoms get better. If they do then yeah your ip is on its way out.
Advance the timing. If the hesitation clears up then you just bought yourself a little time before replacing the injector pump. So far the symptoms you describe point to an ip on the way out.
My e4od intermittently goes into limp mode for no apparent reason. I used to have to pull over, shut the truck down and restart to get it shifting back to normal. Then I noticed it would go into limp mode when I toggled between the odometer and trip meter. If I kept pressing the button...
I personally have seen the damage water can inflict on injection systems, especially on common rail systems. The pleats on a standard duty filter are treated chemically to be hydrophobic or basically water repelling, usually with silicon. Dispersed water in fuel will form droplets on the pleats...
The filter change light is only going to activate when there is a restriction of fuel. When the consumption of fuel by the injector pump becomes greater than what is being supplied by the filter head it creates negative fuel pressure between the injector pump inlet and the filter head. This...
I think it all depends on personal preference. I like having the high idle for cold starts. I also like it for extended idling. I understand your point of view but, I prefer that everything be functional on my truck. Case in point, I had to disconnect my fuel filter head heating element because...
The power comes from the harness. Extend the wires to the cab and add a switch, that's it. All the temp swith does is close the circuit when the water is cold and open the circuit when the water is hot.
It's not supposed to cycle in vent mode. The compressor is only used in max a/c (cab air recirculation), normal a/c (takes in outside air) and defrost (needs dried air to defog the windshield). If the compressor clutch is constantly cycling on/off rapidly but, still gets the cab cold check the...
That's the vacuum solenoid that operates the door for outside air versus recirculating air. The one that directs air between defrost, dash louvers and floor heat is under the dash in the center. You're definitely not getting vacuum to the hvac Controls.
I did it when my temp switch went bad. All I did was disconnect the wires at the temp switch and used blade crimps to connect to a pair of wires routed through the firewall and into a rocker switch in the cab. Simply put, extend the temp switch wires to the cab and use a manual switch. It is...
There is no block heater anywhere on this engine. Not sure why, I really thought they all came with one out of the factory. It’s really not a need thing as much as it is a want. I’m in north Florida so a cold morning here is usually not anything to be concerned with. I wouldn’t mind having the...
I don’t know, I don’t have access to a 7.3psd for comparison. I just figured that if it’s doable someone out there would have done it by now. I really don’t want to jack with the freeze plugs. I don’t want to create a problem where there is none.
How fast does the starter spin the engine? If it’s not fast you won’t get a quick start with a cold engine. Good batteries a good starter and good cables are critical. Not just the hot cables, the negative cables have to be in good condition along with the connections at the batteries and the...
That’s a wrap. Good troubleshooting gets it done right every time. My theory is that the same current normally going to 8 plugs now goes to 7 then 6, so on and so forth until you’re mostly starting on luck and good compression. The controller tends to short cycle the smaller load if it’s working...
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