Was there any resolution to the problem? I'm having the same issue right now.
Brake lights work
Turn signals work
Hazards work
Running tail lights do NOT work
Using a test light I get voltage at the switch, so my only guess is chasing wires...
Any advice from previous people who fixed...
I did not think about that too. It's very likely I would think.
Does anyone know if you can put something like "dielectric grease" on top of the glow plug or inside the wired plug? Something I do on other electrical connections under the hood to keep connections good (clean, waterproof, etc)
Thanks Chris!
Got it to start eventually and made it home.
All I really did was have the block heater plugged in for about 3 hours and the gp controller started to work normal again. Must not have liked the snow today. It wasn't even that cold (high 20's or so).
Something to look into...
Made it home! Truck started and all. All I really did was leave it plugged in for 3 hours and it worked.
So after the 3 hours of having the block heater plugged in, the controller and wait to start light began working like normal. I turned key to run position, the wait to start light turned...
Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll need to jump the engine mounted controller, not so much the fender mounted relay.
I check the ohms of each glow plug and they were all less than .5.
The engine does crank and try to turn over, just isn't catching.
I do have continuity between the wires...
I posted in "911 Diesel Down" section, but thought I put it here depending who's online. (really in the interest in getting help to make it home tonight)
HELP!
(Broomfield Colorado)
Made it to work this morning in Colorado, but won't re-start to go to lunch (and hopefully home in 3 more...
HELP!
(Broomfield Colorado)
Made it to work this morning in Colorado, but won't re-start to go to lunch (and hopefully home in 3 more hours).
When I turn ignition to the "Wait to Start" position, the glow plug relay just does it's "hard" clicking noise immediately. This is the noise I...
Thanks icanfixall for the response. I did the work myself, and did remove and re-install the gear. I can only assume I did it right. Probably check 100 times that the gear was right before putting the housing on. The shop was only to get it timed, which thanks to Joe coming over with the...
I hear that, but I need to make sure I fix (if there is) the root problem so I don't smoke out everyone when towing. And wasting fuel.
I suppose I should also mention it starts really rough when cold. Meaning I have to give it fuel after it turns over to keep it from "choking out". Although...
UPDATE
** UPDATE **
I would like to give a huge thanks to "swervyjoe". He was able to come over and help time my engine. We checked to see the timing it was set at that the shop said was "right where it should be". It turned out to be set at 4.5 degrees!!!:eek:
So we bumped it up to 9.8...
Cool. I'll give you a call tomorrow (tied up tonight).
So follow up question to all....can a properly timed Baby Moose on a NA engine pass emissions at elevation, or do I need a turbo (i.e. MORE air)?
Thanks.
Anyone know of a place in Denver who can properly time a pump?
Or anyone in Denver have the tool and willing to give a hand?
I've searched where I can so far. It was funny when I even went to International (off hwy 85). They were nice but even said "That truck's too old for us."...
Looking for assistance.
I'm putting my mechanical fuel pump back on the engine and I'm wondering if I'm missing a spring.
Reason is I pulled a spare pump from an old engine and it has a little yellow spring between the body and the lever arm. My pump does not have this spring. Or did I...
Thanks for the advice. As far as the pushrods and rockers go, I should be fine. When I dis-assemble I always put them away labeled and in a certain direction so they'll be the exact same when I re-assemble.
The 5 times torque for the studs was for the 3 times the Ford Service Manual has (I...
Hello Oilbuners! I've done my searching and cannot find a driect answer, so any help is appreciated.
So let's say a "friend" yesterday put the original cleaned-up heads back on his 7.3. New Victor Reinz gaskets and ARP head studs. Torqued the studs 170 times (17 per side, 5 iterations for the...
Thanks franklin. Don't get me wrong, I have a bunch of Harbor Freight stuff as it allows me to get more tools for my money if I'm not using it often or in a heavy duty situation. I do intend to use such a tool though on a a bunch of vehicles and for a long time.
My main thinking is tools like...
Iowa? Do you have a set part number for the set you have. Like I mentioned, my concern is buying the wrong set that won't be big enough or just the wrong size. Thanks.
Thanks for the set part number. That's a real nice set with a lot of options for a decent array of bushings/bearings/joints. This may be something I look into getting for all my projects.
I'm looking for recommendations on a set of tools for removing/replacing the u-joints and ball joints.
I have seen the sets you can buy that are inclusive of doing both although I don't want to get a set that's not going to be the right size for the truck.
I would appreciate it if anyone knows...
Bummer... they're already sold out on ebay.
Thanks for the part number though. I noticed my connection was leaking pretty decently during my engine tear down.
I'm with "cpdenton" above; I like to replace parts once and when it's easiest opposed to always wondering where a leak is coming from.
If you want to do a quick bypass I would suggest the following. Worked for me on a trip with the Heater core leaking into the passenger foot well.
Go to the closest hardware shop.
Get two barbed plumbing fittings that you can screw together. Find some that make a 180 degree turn on each...
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