@Wrenchmonkey316
Yes 6.0 Powerstroke trans cooler , no fan. Didn’t need it but I also don’t live in phoenix. I used it inline with the cooler in the radiator and the stock e4oD trans. I also made new trans lines because I didn’t like the routing.
I used air shocks on my buggy in the rear and they worked great for a year then they started leaking.
I used bags on the idi rear to help with the sag and stiffen the rear for when I had a lance on the back, 55 psi and they worked great but they made the ride terrible when the bed was empty...
Hello, I recently bought a 2008 dodge 4x4 six speed with 245k that needs front ball joints. I’ve done 2wd ford ball joints several times but just looking for any pointers on 4x4 setups.
Thanks in advance
Bought a dodge , night and day difference expecially braking.
I’ll come back one day for now couldn’t pass up a good deal. I still love IDITs just upgrading
@Thomas87 I just used the shape off the banks box and hole pattern for the cdr and then added a 1/2 long x 1” diameter stand off that I had welded to the tube to space out the plate.
When I get a chance I’ll take some more photos for details
For a 7.3 not 6.9 but same concept, for the first gen banks turbo
1. deleted the washer fluid container to fit the filter and made a mount/ heat shield
2. Hypermax intake
3. Generic 3 inch tubing and boots with intake clamps
4. Add a plated hole with threads to mount the breather on the intake...
tested the system loaded this weekend , worked perfect , had to make a small adjust and then after never went over 215. Picture is before the adjustment Holding at 220.
No IC and running 6lbs of boost
Egts at 1200
Loaded = camper + enclosed trailer
About 6500 lbs + truck
No issues happy with...
Yea Did the conversion works great!
I did add my own bracket for the plug to the fan shroud for piece of mind. (not in picture )
3 hours to install and took my time
Nice kit
@ISPKI yes the radiator has through holes for the clip/bolt style fasteners that mount it (in his photos).
Or rubber isolators
Usually there is paint covering the radiator support matting surface so then it’s only grounded with the OEM strap and whatever contact is made between the threads of...
I hope your running an extra ground strap to reduce electrolysis. Have you flushed the system yet? Another upgrade is to add a coolant filter.
Glad to hear it’s working good for your application
Will need a additional trans cooler and larger cooler lines if your going to tow heavy, expensive to fix at times and really could use a shift kit once you have all the TPS adjusted and other components as well
You need to watch the gauge as you pump the brakes and see if it drops (while the truck is running), buy some vacuum plugs at autozone and start plugging the manifold and isolate the one that’s leaking. If it’s the vacuum line to the booster then you found your problem
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