I used Justin’s 3” down pipe with his stage one turbo.
I didn’t modify anything to get more clearance. Just wrapped the pipe good, then remove the transmission crossmember + driveshaft and tilt the trans and engine back and downward to get room to install it, then just jack it back up and it’s...
Dang, unloaded with a 110 cc pump I have trouble getting EGTs up to 700. I really have to push the throttle all the way to floor going up hill accelerating to get that high.
I am also 4” straight piped + 3” down pipe on the exhaust and Intercooled.
I would definitely start with upgrading your...
@Nero @KansasIDI
Sounds like multiple bad injectors, yikes!
Hopefully that’s it though. If you confirm it is the injectors, I’d be weary about sending them back. I sent mine back to justin and they came back okay, but ended up knocking again not long after.
I really think Russ’s injectors...
Yup, I tried it and can tell you that I had wayyy too much return pressure, literally a geyser of fuel squirting out of return . I tried then running a larger line and tee’ing it into the return along the frame right before fuel tank selector valve to see if that would help…. It didn’t help...
Yup, I tried it and can tell you that I had wayyy too much return pressure, literally a geyser of fuel squirting out of return rails. I tried then running a larger line and tee’ing it into the return along the frame right before fuel tank selector valve to see if that would help…. It didn’t help...
The one thing I liked about CDD was that you’re able to send your pump in and know that you’ll get it back in 10-12 weeks.
I really wanted one of the R&D pumps but anytime he puts them up for sale on his website they sell out in a few hours. And you can’t get on a waitlist or anything.
So far...
AN12 works fine for now since my rings are brand new. I didn’t get total seal but still no blow by for the moment.
AN16 gonna be very tough to fit. Not sure you could do it. I like the hose barb better if you’re gonna go that big.
Plus I think elbow is the way to go. Not sure how you’d make...
Not the NPT. Not sure if you’d ever have the clearance to spin an elbow on if you wanted. I’d vote for #2
Also check your clearance with the 1.5” elbow to the serpentine belt if you have one.
I welded a 12AN bung on the IP cover and the elbow fitting I used came pretty close to the belt
Dang, mystery solved. The tick was just the oil pressure sensor line rattling in the dash this whole time.
I feel dumb LOL
Wasted a lot of time chasing stuff to find this
Last time I talked to him he said the injectors were ‘finicky’… if they all work for you then that’s awesome, hopefully you get it paired with one of his IP’s.
I will say there was noticeably more power with the stage 1 injectors, it definitely could roll some coal too.
But my truck...
I got a set of Russ injectors in the truck today and dang! It is much better. Knock is gone, it doesn’t have that slight hazy white smoke on cold starts anymore, and the exhaust doesn’t stink. See if you can tell which injector was the one that was knocking.
But, that mystery rattle/slight...
My only worry would be that maybe the turbo pedestal would drain oil too fast causing it to leak out of the valley pan.
I have heard of people drilling holes in the bottom part of that drain in the valley pan to help it drain quicker.
R&D stage 1. Heard nothing but good things about them, and he fixed them up right away the first time I had an issue free of charge. They’ve been problem free for several months since, but I don’t feel like bugging him again.
In the end, I don’t know if it’s an issue with the IP that’s causing...
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