bleeding Clutch questions

DeeseSR

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I have pushed almost a whole bottle of brake fliud through my new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and still haven't got any movement of the slave cyl. Any ideas. The only thing that I didn't replace was the line and it doesn't leak. Thanks.
 

82fordtruck

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sounds like a bad master cylinder, if it's not leaking anywhere. Where did you get the parts?
 

ramon f350

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sounds like a bad master to me as well unless the clutch masters are like barke masters and you need to bench bleed them before you install
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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SSgt,

Definitly a PITA changing both at the same time. A little trick I found with the help of the others was to elevate the truck to where the bleeder screw is on the high side and pump like mad. Had the same issues and is difficult doing that by yourself. It does take a bit but it should all work out. I used almost a quart by time I was finished and oil soaked.
 
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Can't remember who did it this way, but you can bleed it from the slave cylinder under the pickup. I did mine this way with fair results. No matter how you look at it, it's a pita. I think the best way is with a pressure bleeder, but they are expensive...maybe you could borrow one from a shop.

Paul
 

sle2115

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Raise the front end, push the clutch fork back against the slave cylinder and release the bleeder screw, when the clutch fork wont move any more toward the slave, tighten the bleeder screw and release the clutch fork. Mine took about 3 or 4 times of this and I had good clutch release. Make sure you keep the master cylinder full as they will drain fast (don't ask how I know) and if you got an aftermarket slave, made of plastic, go real easy on that bleeder screw. I got one that was stripped out of the box, I suppose someone had it and stripped it and returned it to the parts dealer.

Good luck,
Scott
 

Agnem

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Take a look at the PDFfile I just linked from the FAQ under drivetrain.
 

towcat

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How about a weird idea? :D
For years I was concerned about letting the clutch slave fully extend and the consequences...ie. the whole thing falling apart. Until I did a post mortem on a bad clutch slave after doing a nono. While it was out of the bracket and cluch fork, I stepped on the clutch pedal and intentionally blew it up. Got news... it takes a fair amount of pedal effort to kill one in the fully extended position. So here's what I did on my most recent clutch system installs. One. install the master and the nylon line. fill with fluid and let it gravity bleed out. Two, remove the slave from the retainer bracket(if installed on the trans) on the trans and allow the pushrod to extend fully or if the slave is a new unit, disengage the retainer straps holding in the pushrod and allow to extend. Three, find the appropriate sized allen wrench for the bleeder screw on the slave. Four, install the slave on the nylon line when you start seeing fluid dripping out of the line. Five, here's where it gets interesting... brace the slave pushrod against a hard object such as one of web pockets on the trans and push in the pushrod by hand after opening the bleed screw. Six, when the pushrod is in the fully retracted position, close the bleedscrew. Allow the pushrod to once again fully extend SLOWLY. Seven, repeat steps five and six until you start getting a shower. This only took two or three repeats for me. Another indication that the slave is filling up is it will become harder to push in due to the amount of fluid filling up the slave. That is a good thing. Eight, if you are intalling a new slave, reinstall the retainer strap and install the slave assy. If you don't have the retainer strap anymore, open the bleed screw a little, so when you fight in the slave assy, the pushrod will go in a little easier. I had the second of the two to work with cookoo :mad:
Here's my premise for the whole idea....when working properly, the pushrod travel on the clutch slave is 1/4 to 1/3 of the total travel the salve is capable of handling. By fully stroking the slave unit, more air is displaced and more fluid is drawn in from the vaccumn, therefore tha job goes quicker. Fact of the matter is you are going to get a brake fluid shower either way, minus well make it alot shorter ;Sweet :D
yes, I can already see the ****** reference inuendo coming......
 
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Nice Towcat.

I think that's a great idea. You say you've done it this way a few times. Do you get solid pedal everytime?

Paul
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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towcat said:
How about a weird idea? :D



yes, I can already see the ****** reference inuendo coming......

Man where was that idea this past spring. :backoff

Gotta agree with Rob on this one. Looks like most of the writing is all there just need a few pics. I still have an exploded slave cylinder for pics if needed......Don't ask. :rolleyes:
As far as the rest........I'll just leave that up to Mel and his purple Moose hide
You must be registered for see images


:rotflmao
 

towcat

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F350camper said:
Calvin, great plan. This sounds like your next article to me...
:Sly
I am sick and tired of brake fluid showers :puke: I'll be more than happy to be the one taking the pics. I just need a lab rat to be the shower taker. :D
I get a solid pedal real fast with this meathod. any residual air wll work its way out within a day of driving. ;Sweet
 

OkieGringo

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towcat said:
How about a weird idea? :D
By fully stroking the slave unit,;Sweet :D
yes, I can already see the ****** reference inuendo coming......

Maybe we need to modify your handle to "TowCat-Slave Stroker:Whatever: "

:D OkieGringo
 

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