Found Bad Injector....

So... As some of you know I'm pop testing all my injectors with around 5000 + miles on them. I have been shimming them all to 1850 as needed with no issues till.... Number 4 injector.... The nozzle is blackened and the pintle needle is burnished too. It pop tested fine at 1700 lbs but looks bad internally.... I have tried cleaning it every way I know how to but its not changing any spray pattern... Just a ****** stream. Its not leaking thru either but I feel its going to be replaced. I figure all I need is a nozzle and pintle. I have a shop I might be able to buy these parts from... If not I'll just buy a complete injector and use the nozzle and pintle from that. The spring is what wears and takes a set so I will be reusing my body and spring.... Otherwise all is working well with this project...

5k miles on an injector and it's already shot?
where did you get it?
was it new or reman?
what brand was it?
what do you run for fuel?
whats the condition of the fuel system? (clean tanks,and fuel etc?)
thanks.

Bad out of the box no doubt. It happens to the best of us. US Diesel Parts will sell you the nozzle but it's reman and more than the cost of a reman injector from uhaul or Pensacola, less than a new one from Russ or Mel or anywhere else. Never checked on pintles, thought they were part of the nozzle assy.

My injectors were brand new Delphi Bb codes and they worked great. About 3 or 4 times in the past 5 months my engine will start fine even after sitting of several weeks at a time but... In those past months I get a bad cylinder. White smoke and a miss for about 3 seconds. Clears up and runs fine. So I'm guessing that burned nozzle has an issue with combustion leaking back. Cost really isn't an issue for parts. If I have to I will just buy another injector and rob the parts I need to make mine work. The spring in my injector will deffinatly be reused but the pintle and nozzle wont... I di have a CAV injector thats a Bb code but the pintle looks like it has a differant profile than the Bb code Delphi has. Now if I was out on the road I would run what I needed to get home safely. Even a G code would do that.... Looks like rain here so I installed the back 2 injectors on both sides of the engine... No need to "test" the cowl seal and find out it wont keep out the rain... Those open injector bores are a straight shot to a cylinder. I put the plastic caps that come with a new injector in them too. No water will be sneaking in... Intake is covered well and so is the turbo inlet and outlets....

FORDF250HDXLT said:

5k miles on an injector and it's already shot?
where did you get it?
was it new or reman?
what brand was it?
what do you run for fuel?
whats the condition of the fuel system? (clean tanks,and fuel etc?)
thanks.

Click to expand...

From a friend
It was new
Delphi BB code
Only pump grade diesel and 4 ozs of stanadyne performance per tank everytime
Tanks are clean and I have a transcold carrier electric pump with 7 lbs on the injection pump side of the filter....

Doesnt matter where they came from, all the delphi's are made in mexico and who knows what the qc is, thats why I test the pressures and make sure they are at least within 100 lbs. The clearances on the tip of the bad one was probably a little tightand then it burned internally when it stuck. the real ***** is none of the suppliers will warranty anything because of the possibility of contamination during install. I have tried, twice.

Now Ii know why the pump shop charges so much for the same injectors I sell cheaper, if they have to cover one itdoesnt wipe out the wallet.


Also, the cav and lucas parts never had this many problems, better QC i am guessing.

If you think the Mexican made delphi's are bad, try the INDIAN made BOSCH.

I had three stickers out of the box for my 6.5 TD in my old burb.

Yeah, Brandon, my son, says the ones for MB are absolute junk.

typ4 said:

Doesnt matter where they came from, all the delphi's are made in mexico and who knows what the qc is, thats why I test the pressures and make sure they are at least within 100 lbs. The clearances on the tip of the bad one was probably a little tightand then it burned internally when it stuck. the real ***** is none of the suppliers will warranty anything because of the possibility of contamination during install. I have tried, twice.

Now Ii know why the pump shop charges so much for the same injectors I sell cheaper, if they have to cover one itdoesnt wipe out the wallet.


Also, the cav and lucas parts never had this many problems, better QC i am guessing.

Click to expand...

My Depphi BB's had a bad Tip right out of the box found out when they were being transformed into MOOSE MISTERS so quality is maybe so-so but is still the best we have to work with at this time

It isn't usual to find one or more injectors go bad out of a set of new injectors. I have had "rebuilts" that were not too good. After several thousand miles of use with the rebuits in, the truck engine suddenly started to vibrate badly for no reason and then clear up. I changed over fuel tanks and still the same problem - at highway speeds towing a trailer on I-5. I had a hunch that one or more injectors were sticking, so I put in fuel treatment and it helped a bit, but not much. I ordered a set of new CAV/Stanadyne BB's from one of the diesel places in Texas for $25 each (this was maybe 12 years ago). Installed the new injectors and the engine fired up and had all sorts of power with the new injectors. Had the old (reconditioned) injectors tested and two out of eight were sticking - with a third very iffy.

I would never again, buy reconditioned injectors for a pickup. I have another set of new Delphi BB's and a spare rebuilt injection pump ready, if and when needed. Even on much larger engines (2000hp or bigger), new injectors are always better than reconditioned in my experience. Even with new ones, it pay to disassemble and clean everything thoroughly before testing. I have found swarf inside a new Sulzer injector (made in Switzerland), so Delphi or CAV would be no different

Just thought I would mention what I have experienced - of course everones situation could be different. Anyway, as they say -"misery likes company" or, it is nice to know that others have the same problems too

Cheers

mariner

I'm not at all disappointed with the one bad injector. Like I posted eary on... I bought a new set and it worked great right out of the box... No issues till a few months ago... My fuel is clean... My tanks get 4 ozs of stanadyne performance every fillup so the fuel system is better than stock... I run a Motorcraft fuel filter too. So nothing is getting past that. When I installed these new injectors I wore white rubber gloves. No dirt can hide on those and the system was clean doing this work... nothing got into an injector and ruined it. There has been times when my engine felt like it was running with a couple of extra cylinders. Maybe that was the bad injector working properly....

mariner,

Just curious, what is "swarf"?

Swarf is machining leftovers, chips, cleaning equipment fluff ,things of that nature, mainly metal bits.

snicklas said:

mariner,

Just curious, what is "swarf"?

Click to expand...

Metal shavings, chips - byproducts of machining. Often fine metal shavings that look a bit like potoato peelings, metal chips from milling, fine metal dust from grinding usually mixed with fine particles of the grining wheel that break off etc.

In the larger fuel injectors I have worked with (on marine engines that develop anywhere from 2000 hp to 4000 hp per cylinder) there was ample space for these shavings to hide. If not cleaned properly, the injector needles would jam due to contamination and badly score both the needle and the body of the nozzle. The same analogy can be used with the injectors for the 6.9 and 7.3 engines - if all debris is not cleaned out, microscopic bits of very hard metal and/or grinding material, dust - all contibute to the same problem.

Cleanliness is of utmost importance with fuel pump and injection equipment - and that also includes adequate and proper filtering of the fuel too. Absolutely clean diesel must be used and clean shop conditions needed or trouble will surely follow - like night follows day.

Thanks

mariner

For general interest, here are a couple of links on the type of engines I used to work with - been retired for several years now ( getting old sux bigtime eh !)

http://www.mes.co.jp/english/business/energy/energy_01.html

http://gcaptain.com/emma-maersk-engine?506

the links might be a bit on the slow side, but interesting none the less.
The ones I worked on were obviously smaller and much older than those shown in the links.

A diesel is a diesel - suck, squeeze, bang and blow - they all do it.

Thought thiese might be of interest to you guys.

cheers

mariner