DO NOT FOLLOW YOUTUBE VIDEO RE PULLING IP PUMP, HELP ME PLEASE, PICS ENCLOSED

Would a sticky be good about this?, I am ready to expose my two "Y" marks and I think I need to pull the water pump because I followed the You Tube video when pulling my IP pump,...

are you gona pull the front cover to line em up or just use the mirror and hope?

I don't know, I need help

Sounds like he's pulling the cover, which is the best way to do it.

Do you have a link to the YouTube video? Someone should post a comment on the video about that....that is dangerous!!

What help do you need?

If you're going to pull the timing gear cover, you will need to pull the water pump first...you'll also need a pulley remover to remove the front crank pulley. Once you have the timing gear cover off, you'll want to get the front crank seal replaced.

It actually isn't a MISERABLE job, but it is time consuming. Since you're going to need to drain the cooling system anyways, pulling the radiator will be beneficial to give you some more space to play with. Maybe this link will help you?

Thanks for the pics... All the pictured gaskets are exactly what you need to remove and instal the front cover. The grey gasket is the mechanical lift fuel pump gasket... you probably wont use that gasket but its nice to have as a spare. Now you seem to be a turning point. Rotate the engine till the timing marks line up on the vibration dampner. TDC is the short hole and you will actually feel a raised line stamped into the timing tab thats welded to the front cover. You do have plenty of room to see the Y timing mark on the cam gear. You may need another mirror placed on top of the gear teeth to reflect the image. Use a flashlite for more lite also. Then count 17 teeth from the injection pump gear up both sides of the gear. Mark that tooth. Do both sides and make a mark across the gear. Now set the gear down in the cover till it "finds" the cam gear. That line you made across it will be parall across the top of the front cover and the two Y marks will be lined up. Push the injection pump gear towards the back of the engine for more room to look in and verify the marks. Use anything you have that shiny and flat... Sometimes a piece of common shim stock is shiny enough to see both of the Y gear marks. Any autoparts has shim stock. They sell it in thicjness from 1 thousands and up. Stainless works well. You need a piece about 6 inches by 1 inch. 3, 4, 5 ,or 6 thousands will work fine. The gap you have between the gear and the front cover will allow plenty of room for this shim stock to reach and see the marks. Hope this helps keeping you from removing the front cover....

I just got off the phone with John (sorry, lost connection...call me tomorrow) and he doesn't have the water pump out yet. Anyone have any pictures of the balancer with the timing marks lined up, so it can demonstrate what we are trying to explain a little better. I sounds like from your explanation Gary that he'll get it nailed. Wish I was closer I'd drive up and help out.
I'd take pictures, but sadly my pickup is 2200 miles away

For cripes sake people, come to the forum FIRST!! What is this the third one this month.

Well Russ... I really don't keep count any longer.... I probably would have done this many years ago when I was "learning" about these engines.. And yes Warden... somebody should post a comment to that Felle on utube showing everyone how NOT to do this job. I have seen that utube and another just like it... In the background noise all one can hear is chickens clucking like a rooster was chasing them.... Talk about funny.... I almost PIMP...... Poop in my pants..... Old guy stuff...

Is this the offending video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zQ5UV-En_E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That is one of them. See where this guy sits the exposed pump and lines down... thats dirt... WTH.... Man is that ever a wrong way to do something....

Does the sand from setting it on a rock help with new engine break in?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS3xbwSBJOs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Same approach.

Some comments that the lower nuts are hard to get to, if they dont want to do it right then they shouldnt mess with it at all, yeah I am cranky today, so what!

icanfixall said:

... Then count 17 teeth from the injection pump gear up both sides of the gear. Mark that tooth. Do both sides and make a mark across the gear. Now set the gear down in the cover till it "finds" the cam gear. That line you made across it will be parall across the top of the front cover and the two Y marks will be lined up. ....

Click to expand...

Good write-up, Gary. Here's a picture of the 17 tooth count.

BTW, there is a write-up in the tech articles which covers pulling the injection pump. Mel wrote a fine piece, something about renewing the fuel system. The first couple pages cover removing the IP.

Thanks Ken for the perfect picture of what I wrote about. I guess some guys feel they really know how to work on these engines so they post up utubes for others to "learn from".... I'm not always right. I am right more times than I'm wrong. I can say.... I'm sorry I made a mistake too.... Some day I will post up what I'm doing on my engine at this time. I know many will learn plenty because I know where I came from. As far as the second utube... Yes.. thats the posting where you hear the chickens in the background. You'll notice the guy does not use any kind of injector torque. Tape on the throttle cables and that injection pump feed line Pproblem".... Well thats not a problem. That fitting has an olive square o-ring in it just like the other end at the filter. Those wear out and can be tightened up. Or just replace them... they can be found in any good injection pump repair shop cheap too... As russ posted.. Yes, those lower 9/16th inch nuts that hold the injection pump to the gear cover can be tuff to reach but... We have a tool that can be made for that easily.