N/A dynomax exhaust Y-Pipe

I think you'll be ok back pressure wise since your retaining the Y..... Going to true duals I could see a back pressure loss

From my tape measure both the banks exhaust and the Dynomax y pipe are something like 2.81 inches. Weird

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Includes: Banks Ram-Air Intake System with Hi-Rise air filter cover, lifetime, high-flow air filter and service kit • Streamlined Y-pipe assembly • Low-restriction, acoustic-tuned Banks Dynaflow muffler • Constant diameter 3" aluminized tubing • Polished 3.5" stainless tailpipe tip • Pyrometer instrument kit with mounting panel • comprehensive owner’s installation manual.

Gains up to: +38 horsepower +6% fuel economy

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I wonder how my stock system with no muffler compares to that banks system with a muffler or the Banks muffler. You would think it would be close.

Is the dynomax y pipe 3" where both the pipes come together?

riotwarrior said:

Nice...very nice, i've something similar in design and compared to the ones I cut apart for flanges for Russ it's a super flowing one...

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The actual flow merge area is still poor in design IMHO as it pretty much copies the factory geometry that is nearly T-shaped, it only flows better than stock cause the driver-side pipe goes up in diameter before the passenger-side pipe dumps in it. This is my solution to the problem - it's a custom-made Y-pipe with two 2-1/4" pipes merging into a 3" one, the edges of "Y" are then sectioned out and the geometry is changed into more of a "V" for a smoother transition and more internal cross-section area to speed up flow. Those patches are also flush with the rest of the piping, there is very little overlap and the welds are actually mostly butt welds, inside everything is as smooth as can be for a low-budget job.



The same idea can be applied to a factory Y-pipe as well, even just improving the flow merge area without upping the pipe size should help quite a bit.

While trying to find the idi section in autojets PDF I came across the medium duty application guide. For the 6.9 7.3 they show true duals for a few feet then into a dual inlet single outlet muffler

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We've actually done that on big blocks, two separate 2.5" front pipes into a DI-SO muffler and a 3" tail from there back, works quite well. Was planning on treating the IDI to that setup also, even have the muffler for it. But this Y-pipe came into my possession and it was way easier to just improve it then build two whole new front pipes (or alternatively split the factory Y-pipe into two separate runners).

LCAM-01XA said:

The actual flow merge area is still poor in design IMHO as it pretty much copies the factory geometry that is nearly T-shaped, it only flows better than stock cause the driver-side pipe goes up in diameter before the passenger-side pipe dumps in it. This is my solution to the problem - it's a custom-made Y-pipe with two 2-1/4" pipes merging into a 3" one, the edges of "Y" are then sectioned out and the geometry is changed into more of a "V" for a smoother transition and more internal cross-section area to speed up flow. Those patches are also flush with the rest of the piping, there is very little overlap and the welds are actually mostly butt welds, inside everything is as smooth as can be for a low-budget job.

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The same idea can be applied to a factory Y-pipe as well, even just improving the flow merge area without upping the pipe size should help quite a bit.

Click to expand...

That is indeed the optimal setup! The Dynomax/Walker setup may be bigger, but bigger is just bigger. Might be a slight improvement in flow over a smaller set of pipes but if you add in a Y like LCAM illustrated, you could make well designed smaller pipes flow better than poorly designed larger ones. You can buy universal Ys and install them. Or make them like what was don in the pics. Either way, it's "da bomb."

While I was at Dynomax/Walker R&D in Michigan for a story, I got them to flowbench some pipes and bends. Mandrel bends, for example, created 20-30% more differential pressure than a normal crimp bend. A 3-foot section of 2.5 inch pipe flowed 900 cfm while 3 foot section of 3 inch flowed 1200. All cool air, of course. Pipe size tuning can be very important and to a degree it's based on gas temperature. If you've ever wonder why some systems have larger pipes at the front of the system than at the back, it's all about gas temp (exhaust gas, that is) . The gas at the front is hot and expanded bit it repidly cools downstream so after it leaves the muffler, a smaller pipe can be used to maintain velocity (for scavanging). Not much of this latter part applies to turbocharged trucks because the turbo blends all the gasses, heats them even more, packs more air into the cylinder to make even more gasses. A turbocharged engine needs the sewer pipe, but not the NA, which needs more attention paid to pipe sizes so as not to loose scavanging and a small amount of low end performance.

NO_SPRK said:

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Includes: Banks Ram-Air Intake System with Hi-Rise air filter cover, lifetime, high-flow air filter and service kit • Streamlined Y-pipe assembly • Low-restriction, acoustic-tuned Banks Dynaflow muffler • Constant diameter 3" aluminized tubing • Polished 3.5" stainless tailpipe tip • Pyrometer instrument kit with mounting panel • comprehensive owner’s installation manual.

Gains up to: +38 horsepower +6% fuel economy

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+38HP, on an engine that makes ~200 bone stock, JUST from an air filter and exhaust? Seems......optimistic.

Mike

whiteboyslo said:

+38HP, on an engine that makes ~200 bone stock, JUST from an air filter and exhaust? Seems......optimistic.

Mike

Click to expand...

If you look closer you will see a pyro and gauge. That means the fuel settings on the pump changed. Which would allow for more power

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It sounds great. No droning in the cab. Only loud when you're really on it. Great cruising. All around better throttle response.

Old piping weighed a ton!! Plenty of anti seize on the manifold bolts. I drove it to the shop with only the y-pipe and it was loud!

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