db2 ip inlet fitting

1mouse3

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yes that is what I'm looking for, an a 90* would help out
 

FarmerFrank

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It is a 5/16 O ring thread inlet. I did it to both of mine. The 90* 6an ones suck to get the jam but tight but I don't have an olive to worry about. My 86 has a straight fitting to a #6 90 but I had to grind a smidge to get it to clear the intake
 

1mouse3

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I asked in my build trend but know buddy anwered, its all right tough an thanks for the input
 

89Laredo

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Working on a part number but phone is SLOW.
You could call force (1-888-99force) and tell them you need a 5/16 male oring boss to -6 JIC male fitting and they should be able to get you one.
That's where we get all of our hydraulic stuff.
I think the ORB should be a "dash" number too but don't remember.


Are we sure its orb and NOT flat face oring?

edited...

For our uses JIC and AN are mostly interchangable, they're both 37* flare fittings.
An is more expensive and is made to a little better standard (army/navy), JIC is used for most hydraulic fittings.
I would use AN for brakes and JIC fir everything else with no worries.
 
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1mouse3

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I am not positive on that, will try to get down to the hydraulic shop near me that sells push-lok an see if they got one
 

89Laredo

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Straight thread oring/orb
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Flat face oring
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Looks like force doesn't make anything that small (5/16 is -2 size)
 

icanfixall

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Not really sure what threads your needing but I do know the brass fitting thats oem has a 1/2x20 machine bolt cut thread. Or in simple terms its a 1/2x20 fine thread. I wondered for years what this was and thanks to Knuckledragger we figured it out one day at his machine shop. Mel at Conestoga Diesel in Pa has a very nice replacement line for this. It replaces the steel 5/16 line from the fitler out to the injection pump inlet. Mel fixed the olive issues with that line. I believe the engineers at international made these rubber olive fittings because of the pump fuel vibration issues cracking lines. On some injection pump returns on top of the pumps that steel line has the olive fitting in it and we have another olive in the lift pump to filter head fitting. Thats a 3/8 line and olive. Not sure if the 6.9 has this fitting either but the 7.3 sure does. They dry out and harden up. then they leak but you normally wont see it till its really bad enough to show wetness. Long before that its sucking in air causing hard starts because the fuel lleaks back down the fuel system. Our fuel system needs to be tight. Think of our supply and returns like a finger over the end of a straw. You put the straw in a fluid. Place your finger over the end of it and lift it out of the fluid. Nothing drops out but allow the finger to let in some air and you loose it all quickly. Our fuel system is like that. We do have a check valve in the mechanical lift pumps but who knows when that goes bad. Our fuel system should stay pressurized for months but it seldom does. Many just think it golden because it works but have no idea of what I post here.
 

FarmerFrank

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I did both my trucks with a 5/16 Oring. Not a flat flame Oring. I took the old one to work and matched it up. Fastenal supply's us. I can get their part number tonight for ya
 

FarmerFrank

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89laredos first picture is the one you want. I used #6 jic 3/8 line for my supply line and got fittings for the filter head.

DO NOT use push locks there. It will not seal. I have never had luck using them with fuel or oil. You can try but be ready for disappointment
 

1mouse3

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on my freinds car we built up, we used push-loc for trany cooler lines an fuel supply to the carb. nerver had an issues with them leaking so I would trust it from fillter to the ip. I am going be moveing the filter to the frame by the tank, then add a second filter with water seperator. I will also have the e-pump between them
 
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