Injection Pump Housing

When I got my truck the PO had put another IP and changed the housing as well to a no tach sensor housing. Anyone have a housing with the tach sensor hole? Can I just leave my pump in place, mark the gear and unbolt the housing and then line the gear up on the new housing?

Well, I have a housing with the sensor in it that came off a 7.3. I have heard it is almost impossible to line the gears back up, if you take the housing off. I have always wondered though, if you opened the side of the IP like you we're going to adjust the fuel screw, set the engine to TDC, stuck your Allen wrench in the fuel screw and left it there while you removed everything. Then put it all back together still keeping the ip from turning if you could get it back in the right place...

Just wondering...

cp, I was thinking the same thing? it seems that since the pump can only go on the gear one way if it doesn't move then I should be good. My tuck has the factory tach but no place for the sensor How much for your housing?

I think you would have to make sure you removed the ip from the housing first, like you normally would, then try to slip the housing off the top of the gear without slipping a tooth on the gear... I don't know how well it would work.

Pm me an offer on the cover...do you need the sensor too?

I would bar the engine to top dead centeron cylinder #1 so you have a good reference point to start with. Remove the IP without removing the housing at first. Carefully remove the housing being sure that the gear remains in place. Once the two gears are exposed I would clean them with brakleen and use a paint stick to make a reference line in case things jumbled up. If I am not mistaken, you can change the gear housing without ever unmeshing the two gears if you go about it correctly. Somebody please verify this.......

now that sounds perfect Goose

I handed out a tool I made, and described how to perform this very operation at the last IDI Weekend. It can be done.

GOOSE said:

I would bar the engine to top dead centeron cylinder #1 so you have a good reference point to start with. Remove the IP without removing the housing at first. Carefully remove the housing being sure that the gear remains in place. Once the two gears are exposed I would clean them with brakleen and use a paint stick to make a reference line in case things jumbled up. If I am not mistaken, you can change the gear housing without ever unmeshing the two gears if you go about it correctly. Somebody please verify this.......

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Exactly how i did mine. Except I didnt paint mark them. Be careful, dont move them and you'll be fine. When you pull up on the housing, the gear will roll to one side, it hits the front cover and stays there, as your pulling up on it watch it, see which way it wants to go and let it. Clean up the surface and just slowly push straight down on the new cover. The gear will roll inside the cover until it seats.

Guys I am feeling blessed by all the great info! I'm gonna try it

yep you will be successful if you take your time and are slow going at it don't rush it

Agnem said:

I handed out a tool I made, and described how to perform this very operation at the last IDI Weekend. It can be done.

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You northeast guys get all the good stuff....one of these days I will make a rally.

Glad you are going to give it a try. Check out Mel's article about the fuel system. It has some good info on removing the injector pump, then you just go the extra step on the housing.

http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm

thanks for the link. What tool Mel? Oh yeah and I would love to make a rally as well We have five kids 7 and under and number six will be here in two weeks! That is six kids in seven years...whew. But we love to travel, so I am looking for a slide in camper for big red now.

if you are at TDC your gear should look like this when you remove the inspection cover. the one-way locating dowel is at the 3:30 position and the holes are at the 10-2&6 position. it just so happens the bottom hole(6) is also inline with the "y" timing mark.scribe the top o the water pump and proceed. it's not brain surgery if you have things lined up when you start the job.

Well guys your pointing the oroginal poster in the right direction. Heres some pics and tricks to help. See the timing marks on the cam and injection pump gear at number one top dead center. Thats what the gear will look like if you remove the housing without the pump and gear attached. If the timing tab at the dampner is lined up so the dampner line is at the short fat probe location you have a 50% chance your at top dead center. If that drive pin in the injection pump gear is not facing down line towact and my pics show you are 180 degree off. Remember the crank turns twice for each full turn of the cam and injection pump gear. Both of those gears have the same amount of teeth in them. They have to or the timing will be off every crank revolution. So remove the front cover to the drive bolts. Theres three of them and they are 5/16 hex and hard as hell to find a 12 point socket to fit. They also are torqued to 25 lbs. Make sure you do that too. Anyway when you remove the tiny cover look for the drive pin to be like my pics and towcats pics. If not turn the crank one more turn till the damponer is again at top dead center. Now remove the injection pump and then the gear housing. When the injection pump gear is gear timied correctly you can run a t square up the middle of it to the top and that will tell you the cam and injection pump are correctly gear timed.

got it, there is a pick-n-pull down the road from me. I will stop by tomorrow and see if any diesels on the yard to get a cover. If not I will see about getting cpdenton to ship his. Thanks guys it looks straight forward. The injectors and glows are supposed to be here tomorrow from ebay and it looks like sat will be tuneup day.