Heater core removal and installation - any tips/tricks?

Always something......

Came out to a nice little puddle under the passenger side fender (right at the door). Looks like a heater core leak since it's dribbling down from where the hose connects at the firewall (new hose. tried tightening the clamps. no luck).

I know the heater core is a straight-forward job (drop glove box, disconnect heater core under hood, remove from inside, replace, hook up hoses), but are there any tips or tricks you guys have, especially in regards to NOT making more of a coolant mess with this truck because it's seen more than its fair share in the last few months and I'm getting sick of it.

Thanks!

Mike

....or i could just read the tech articles:

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/heater.html

But still, anyone know if the process is the same for bricknoses?

Mike

The heater core replacement took me about 20 minutes for my truck. It was an easy and simple fix in my opinion. However, aftermarket heater cores may be a little tight fitting. I had to finesse mine in place which took the longest out of the entire job. Good luck replacing yours

Brick nose same basic procedure...drop box...open heater box remove...I'd suggest blowing some air into it...not too much pressure just enough to move some fluid out then when you gotta SQUIRM it out...there is less to pour out....just a brain fart idea....

I also found out the after market cores don't last as long as the factory core does. I replaced mine three times. The factory core failed so I installed an autozone replacement. A year later that leaked so I got another vatozone replacement. That too leaked is about 18 months... Went back to the oem ford core... No issues is 11 years.... Like Mel has said many times... You get what you pay for... Thats a reason not to shop at walmart too.

Point taken. Autozone/O'Reilly are $25/ea. Motorcraft comes in around $50-$60, but I don't feel like doing this job a billion times, so maybe that's worth it. Time for a call to my favorite Ford parts guy!

Mike

Well, the good news is I came home to a dry truck. Maybe tightening the clamps worked after all. I still ordered the heater core, though. I don't mind having one on the shelf just for a little insurance.

But, unrelated and inexplicably, the pyrometer isn't working. Hopefully it's just a loose wire or something since I already replaced the thermocouple earlier this year. I swear, keeping this thing happy is like plugging holes in a dam with your fingers! Maybe some day it'll work for me and not the other way around.

Mike

I was hopeing thats all you needed to do. Usually when you leak at the area you posted about its a hose clamp. Sometimes they just don't seat correctly on the hose.

whiteboyslo said:

Well, the good news is I came home to a dry truck. Maybe tightening the clamps worked after all. I still ordered the heater core, though. I don't mind having one on the shelf just for a little insurance.

But, unrelated and inexplicably, the pyrometer isn't working. Hopefully it's just a loose wire or something since I already replaced the thermocouple earlier this year. I swear, keeping this thing happy is like plugging holes in a dam with your fingers! Maybe some day it'll work for me and not the other way around.

Mike

Click to expand...

Good to hear, and I know the feeling my trucks the same way (clean engine - leak fuel + oil, fix leaks - tie rods need replaced, new tranny cooler and custom intake - IP and/or injectors go out, pull beat up bed to replace - rear fuel tank springs a leak, cant wait to see what breaks when I put the IP/Injectors in or finnaly fix the slop in the steering...which is why the steering is waiting till spring)

Well, looks like the luck may have ended. Came back from a long trip the other week where she ran just fine, but got up the next morning and was greeted with the same telltale wet spot. Thinking I may have damaged type heater hoses from tightening the clamps too tight, I removed them, cut off about 2" from each hose, and reinstalled with new hose clamps. But, still got a nice wet spot under the truck today. What's weird is that it doesn't start leaking until a few hours later. It's not like I get out of the truck and immediately see a wet spot (and, at this point, I ALWAYS check).

So, next question is, when the heater core DOES leak, which side normally gets wet? Most cars I've known to have heater core issues, you start smelling coolant inside and it soaks the carpet first, but I'm not having any of that. Just want to make sure I don't tackle yet anger coolant (ugh) issue for no apparent reason.

Mike

whiteboyslo said:

... but got up the next morning and was greeted with the same telltale wet spot.

Click to expand...

Sounds kind of personal....

Sorry... Yeah, usu. they leak in the cab. The only part outside the cab is the fittings. You might have flattened one of them by overtightening the clamps. Or maybe one of the fittings just has some rubber from the hose or other crud on it, preventing a good seal. I'd try taking the hoses off again and cleaning up the outsides of the fittings

Cold water leaks are a pain. This is the first winter in the last three that I didn't have to snug my heater core clamps. The best time to snug them is when the temp is at it's lowest point.

I had the same problem with my heater core, I tried to tighten the hose clamps but that didnt work, I still kept getting a fogged up windshield in the cab, so I went to my local Napa dealer and got a replacement and I havent had any issuses yet, i also changed one of the heater hoses also, what made the job alittle eaiser for me was i have some hose pinch off pliers that I used so I didnt make too much of a mess with the coolant. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RLHU8W...e=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B000RLHU8W