Diesel_brad
Dunce
I know these breaking this is a pretty common issue on the 92-97 f-series and bronco. So I will show how i go about FIXING them and Fixing so they will NEVER fail again.
We will start with the broken pieces out of the truck.
One this one, the shifter broke at the pivot pint. But they also brake where the shifter linkage attaches at the steel pin.
First the shifter must come apart
The pivot bolt and 2 nylon bushings must be removed.
Next up is removing the detent pin. You remove the zip tie holding the rubber boot, the boot, and 2 o-rings.
Then lube the **** out of it with your favorite penetrating oil. Lube where the shaft goes up-n-down too.
It will take a couple hard blows to knock the detent pin loose. be careful not to brake the aluminum housing. Drive out the pin from the short side.
Once you get the detent pin out, remove the upper shaft from the body.
After the shaft is removed, MAKE SURE your remove the 2 bushings from the body.
Next up I clean all the penetrating fluid off w brake clean, then sandblast the aluminum body(this helps the welder out)
I drill and tap 2 holes for grease fittings. I try to face them both forward for accessibility. I use 1/4-28 NF fittings. It calls for a .2139/No.3 drill bit. I don't have one so I use a 13/64" which=.2031 The aluminum body is not thick enough to have the fitting threaded in all the way(it will contact the shaft and bolt), so I use washers as spacers.
The finish product before it goes to the welder to get TIG welded
When back from the welder, I clean all the steel parts and put a light coat of grease on everything. Then assemble, install, and put 2-3 pumps of grease in each fitting. move back and forth several times from 2HI -4LO and your are all set. Put 1 pump of grease in every 6 moths are move thru the positions and you will never have any more issues
We will start with the broken pieces out of the truck.
You must be registered for see images attach
One this one, the shifter broke at the pivot pint. But they also brake where the shifter linkage attaches at the steel pin.
First the shifter must come apart
The pivot bolt and 2 nylon bushings must be removed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next up is removing the detent pin. You remove the zip tie holding the rubber boot, the boot, and 2 o-rings.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then lube the **** out of it with your favorite penetrating oil. Lube where the shaft goes up-n-down too.
You must be registered for see images attach
It will take a couple hard blows to knock the detent pin loose. be careful not to brake the aluminum housing. Drive out the pin from the short side.
Once you get the detent pin out, remove the upper shaft from the body.
You must be registered for see images attach
After the shaft is removed, MAKE SURE your remove the 2 bushings from the body.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next up I clean all the penetrating fluid off w brake clean, then sandblast the aluminum body(this helps the welder out)
I drill and tap 2 holes for grease fittings. I try to face them both forward for accessibility. I use 1/4-28 NF fittings. It calls for a .2139/No.3 drill bit. I don't have one so I use a 13/64" which=.2031 The aluminum body is not thick enough to have the fitting threaded in all the way(it will contact the shaft and bolt), so I use washers as spacers.
The finish product before it goes to the welder to get TIG welded
You must be registered for see images attach
When back from the welder, I clean all the steel parts and put a light coat of grease on everything. Then assemble, install, and put 2-3 pumps of grease in each fitting. move back and forth several times from 2HI -4LO and your are all set. Put 1 pump of grease in every 6 moths are move thru the positions and you will never have any more issues
