ZF5 swap front driveshaft question

[olBlue]

Hi all I have been running my truck all summer now (1994 F250 7.3 4wd) and finally have some time to finish my zf5/d60 swap. All I need is the front driveshaft. Supposedly I have the correct crossmember (even though it looks like the driveshaft would hit) but I need help on what shaft to actually get. I found a shaft with part number F1TZ-4A376-C which comes from the tsb 97-13-22 which fixes F250 vibration. But I'm told I need a special yoke. So my question is.. Will my F250 BW1356 as is work with a double joint driveshaft for a f350? And if someone could shoot me a link to one I need or even a part number. Any help from you guys is yet again greatly appreciated. Im always learning so much on here.

 

[flatwoods]

My 93 f350 with factory Dana 60 and zf5 has a double cardan joint for the front output shaft on the transfer case. I also have a transfer case from an f250 that had a single u joint output yoke. You may need the double cardan joint to move the drive shaft further forward to prevent it from hitting the cross member.

 

[olBlue]

Yeah I figured I need the f350 double joint shaft no matter what. But I'm more worried that it won't bolt onto my f250 t-case. I did more research and I think that will be the case. Either get a f350 t-case or find a yoke. I do know they make adapting u joints so I may go that route as well.

 

[u2slow]

The yoke swap isn't about the ujoint... its the bolt spacing for the CV.

My buddy had the F250 shaft shortened and ran it.

 

[oregon96psd]

I just bolted the f250 driveline to the d60 and ran it.

 

[u2slow]

^ that'll work with a lift.... otherwise needs to be roughly 2" shorter.

 

[franklin2]

You do need a different yoke bolted to your f250 transfer case for the double cardan equipped driveshaft to work. I just did this swap on my f250. It has a 4 inch lift and has always vibrated ever since I had it, and the previous owner said it did also. I experimented with a longer driveshaft and different pumpkin angles with small improvements but it never really went away. Swapped in the double cardan and I can't even tell if the hubs are locked in or not, very smooth.

The proper yokes are getting hard to find. I went to www.car-part.com and found a junkyard in New York had the proper yoke at a reasonable price and they sent it ups to me. Worked great. I think I did also need to buy some special bolts to bolt it up, but found them somewhere else.

 

[olBlue]

Ok i guess the search for a yoke or f350 t-case is on. I had the f250 shaft in when i D60 swapped and it worked fine. But with the zf5 its obviously too long and hits the crossmember

 

[u2slow]

Flip it around? More clearance with the slip yoke at the tcase end.

 

[olBlue]

The t-case yoke sits in line with the crossmember so using the f250 shaft can't be done without cutting the crossmember. its like i need the double cardigan to extend the shaft forward to clear the crossmember and then down to meet the d60. Ill have to post up some pictures. Maybe I have the wrong crossmember or something

 

[u2slow]

The F250 shaft worked in a friend's F250 ('90, IDI/ZF5) - shortened, and installed 'backwards'. I swapped in the D60 and leafs. He did the rest. Didn't rub.

 

[olBlue]

I really think somehow I may have the wrong crossmember. Mine has two bolt on gussets, one on each side.

 

[Mike327]

I have a 94 F350 SRW and when I did my swap I used the original front driveshaft which has a double cardigan and it cleared the crossmember but I did have to get the front driveshaft shortened and the rear lengthened

 

[olBlue]

So here is what I have going on. As you can see the transfer case is in line with the crossmember. Did I put the wrong one on? Or what did I do wrong

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[chillman88]

Looks like a 2wd crossmember?

I'm disgusted with how CLEAN everything is!