Wrench Light and Limp mode

[Timthetoolman]

Since my STC and dummy plug replacment I have removed the Cat, 4 inch all the way out with a MBRP 4 inch glass pack.

Just towed my fiver 300 miles last week, 12k pounds, truck ran amazing, pulled like a mule, oil temps never over 210, got 14 mpg, i was so impressed made it to within a mile of home level road 55 mph, slight up hill, man the truck aint going, mashed down on it nothing, looked down and the wrench light was on and I was in limp mode, crap, got to the top of the silght hill, shut it off and reset the wrench light.

What the heck, thought I had this thing nailed....took it to the stealership, here are the codes.

P0234-60 PCM
P0299-60
P0470-60

Overboost
Underboost
Mainfold PSI too high

He ran a turbo test all the PSI looked good ramped up and down no faults, showed nothing but good.

How in the heck could I get these faults on a almost level road going slow, I mean I just ran it in the mountains in Tennessee.

Oh yea, when I did the STC i also cleaned the turbo, Unison ring was stuck, polished crack checked,

Any ID?????

 

[tbirdfiend281]

Your symptoms remind me of the few times I have forgot to hook up the map sensor on the trucks after doing a big job.

That being said without verifying your truck, I would think it could possible be the map sensor. Its the one hanging off your cowl on the passagner side of the truck in the engine bay. The truck having no power and throwing all those codes makes me lean towards it possibly failing.

The other possibility could be your egr valve was sticking slightly open as it was being actuated, you can visually check that by yanking it out and seeing if it coked up.

Are you all stock other then your exhaust?

The overboost code could be related to your 4" exhaust and no cat. The truck should be pushing up to 28-29lbs now since you have it on there, that is typically what I use to see boost wise on the pid data while I was running IDS on the trucks if they had an exhaust and no cat. The stock trucks see 23-26 typically depending on weight and conditions.

Either that or your VGT stuck again. You could have a whole host of problems going on, the only way to truely verify is to get the truck to act up again, and have a scan tool hooked to it while it is acting up. I am suprised your dealership did not suggest hooking up this device (it has been a while and I forget the name) that will log pid data in the event of a symptom happening when the customer pushes the button on it. Like a data logger. You can take it back to Ford and have them pull the data off of it. Also in IDS some or all of those codes should have loged a snap shot of what each pid was doing when the code was thrown, the tech should have been able to tell you a lot more then just the numbers of the codes with that, witch could have helped you greatly. I hope he didnt clear them, if he didnt get a chance to glance at that.

so for home checks, visually inspect your EGR valve, make sure there is no soot leaking into the weep holes on the side of solenoid on top, that can cause them to stick, make sure the valve opens and closes freely by actuating it gently once it is out of the truck

MAP sensor, this can be checked by applying pressure to the sensor, to see if the sensor will vary its voltage progressivly (you may be able to do this by blowing into it, but I dont know if a human could build up enought pressure for the voltage to vary. I am not sure what you need to see voltage wise

last but not least, keep an ear out for VGT turbo chatter or "chuffs" from the intake going up and down hills and while part throttle under load, or even full throttle, then letting off abruptly (probably the best way to verify vgt operation without a scan tool, almost always chuffs and chatters when this is done if the VGT is sticking)

That is all I have for you, if your hauling with the truck I would recomend investing in an EGR delete, or upgraded EGR cooler, it will go bad eventually, the hauling only applies more pressure into the system witch causes them to fail even quicker.

 

[Timthetoolman]

You may have hit the nail, I did notice the cuff thing a few weeks ago, went to haul the garbage off a few miles from home, I now have a habit of runing it up a little hard and back of the peddle fast to keep the turbo loose, I did that just before the dump place and wow what a sound, crap what was that, so I ran it to about twenty pounds of boost and backed off real quick and it did it again, crap, so now I unloaded the grabage and headed home, tried to make it do it again but nothing happened.

When I was towing the fiver a week ago I watched the boost as often as I could, I did see it once do something funny, it was running bout 20PSI then dropped to 10 then back up without me moving my foot, glitch i thought......

I found something, see what you guys think, found a turbo off a 2003, the ten blade exhaust turbo, heard a lot of guys say they sound and work better than the 05's. got it and the pedstal mount if I want it, my friend said I could have it just wsap him mine. Nice to have family with junk trucks and a junk yard. Yall think the 03 is a good swap?

One other thing, since the guy at the dealership ran the turbo test last monday my truck sounds different, used to my exhaust rumbled a little at idle then began to hiss and whistle, seems to have lost the idle whistle now and no hissing sound, just sounds like a gasser with a glass pack, it does whisle when i drive it and boost seems ok.

Think I may just put the 03 on there and see what it does, any thoughts?

 

[tbirdfiend281]

waste of time. I mean its easy to swap them out, but the turbo's across the board are generally garbage. It whistles sometimes and doesn't others because of where the VGT solenoid is being commanded, thats all. Depending on pretty much every fuel and air pid in that computer system, it will set a base % it wants to see. So I would call that symptom normal operation.

The chuffing is a give a way for the unison ring and vanes sticking on the exhaust housing. If it chuffed after you did the cleaning, then I would recommend cracking it open again and cleaning again. This time maybe grind away some of the rust on the vane surface where they ride. That is how I use to clean turbos when I was working 6.0's. Just to let you know, the cleaning of the turbo's only helped in about 1 in 5 trucks. Usually after a cleaning they still had symptoms and still needed a warranty replaced turbo.

Running it hard is good, if those vanes are having to jump up and down all over the place then it decreases the chance for vane/unison ring failure.

Might I recommend if you do go with a new turbo, I would opt for a VGT setup from elite, I have heard good things about the turbos they have. Or just live with the vanes sticking once and a while, if it stoped chuffing, they probably broke free.

 

[Timthetoolman]

I got down to the problem finely, the EBP switch was bad, changed it out all is well, I do still have this 2003 turbo, took apart and cleaned very well, lube with anitsieze, ready to, maybe some weekend when I am bored this winter.

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[tbirdfiend281]

sounds good man. They go bad from time to time. I guess I was overlooking some stuff. I knew it was some pressure sensor causing a misfueling situation with the truck.