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After owning his truck for almost a year with a leaking oil cooler, we finally picked up an oil cooler for it about 2 weeks ago and started tearing into it last night. Ended up spending most of today on it because there was so much rust on everything, and broke most of the bolts off including the manifold bolts. But hey, we're McNamee's and we knew it had to fight us every step of the way, and it sure did.
But in the end we kicked its butt
Here's how we went about it, just so its on the forum and people have another way of doing it. My brothers new cooler was just that, a brand new Ford Service part that was assembled and we didnt want to touch it. So instead of the old trick of pulling the motor mount and breaking the cooler in half and installing it in pieces we decided to go a different rout.
He started out by pulling the drivers wheel off, and pulling the wheel well out of the fender. Then dropped the front drive shaft, drained all the fluids and dropped the crossover pipe. We then unbolted the exhaust manifold and then the oil cooler, slid the cooler down under the block a little ways and dropped the manifold out, followed by the cooler.
Doing it this way leaves you plenty of room to clean all the gasket surfaces and do whatever else needs done while you're in there. We ended up having to replace the rear brake line that goes into the ABS valve because it was almost rusted all the way through.
Dont forget to coat the manifold gasket with copper coat 12 hrs before you are to install the gasket, this will ensure a cured coat and ensure a proper seal.
I also put a skim coat of ultra black RTV on both mating surfaces of the oil cooler, giving it just that extra touch.
When reinstalling everything put the oil cooler in first and jockey the manifold up in there after the cooler is in and torqued down.
When pulling the manifold and re torquing the manifold do it in this method.
[2][1][3][4] then followed by a line pattern in this method <[4][3][2][1]<
Torque the manifold bolts to 35ft lbs, both times.
Torque the oil cooler bolts to 24ft lbs, starting in the center and working out.
Everything is sealed up and nothing leaks, except the oil filter, but I think it just needs tightened more than I have it.
But in the end we kicked its butt
Here's how we went about it, just so its on the forum and people have another way of doing it. My brothers new cooler was just that, a brand new Ford Service part that was assembled and we didnt want to touch it. So instead of the old trick of pulling the motor mount and breaking the cooler in half and installing it in pieces we decided to go a different rout.
He started out by pulling the drivers wheel off, and pulling the wheel well out of the fender. Then dropped the front drive shaft, drained all the fluids and dropped the crossover pipe. We then unbolted the exhaust manifold and then the oil cooler, slid the cooler down under the block a little ways and dropped the manifold out, followed by the cooler.
Doing it this way leaves you plenty of room to clean all the gasket surfaces and do whatever else needs done while you're in there. We ended up having to replace the rear brake line that goes into the ABS valve because it was almost rusted all the way through.
Dont forget to coat the manifold gasket with copper coat 12 hrs before you are to install the gasket, this will ensure a cured coat and ensure a proper seal.
I also put a skim coat of ultra black RTV on both mating surfaces of the oil cooler, giving it just that extra touch.
When reinstalling everything put the oil cooler in first and jockey the manifold up in there after the cooler is in and torqued down.
When pulling the manifold and re torquing the manifold do it in this method.
[2][1][3][4] then followed by a line pattern in this method <[4][3][2][1]<
Torque the manifold bolts to 35ft lbs, both times.
Torque the oil cooler bolts to 24ft lbs, starting in the center and working out.
Everything is sealed up and nothing leaks, except the oil filter, but I think it just needs tightened more than I have it.
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