WMO centrifuge system finally up and running!

bbjordan

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WMO centrifuge system finally up and running! Well, probably not finally...but it was up and running!
Here are some pics of the system:

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I built the barrel stands from salvaged lumber from my neighbour's deck. The pump is a power steering pump(s) from a Hyundai (PnP 1/2 price special). The motor for the pump is a 1/2 HP motor from a washing machine. The heater is from a dryer.

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The washer and dryer I picked up as a "get them out of my basement and they're yours".

It works good. The heater is amazing. The pump makes over 90 PSI no problem.

The only problem I have is with sealing up the pipe joints.

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It seems like every joint is leaking. I even used thread sealant. -cuss

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I think it needs to come apart and be cleaned and resealed with High Temp RTV or Blue thread locker.
What do you guys think? Any one else have pipe sealing problems like this?

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79jasper

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All joints were tight tight? Or just snugged pretty good? I would crank down on em pretty good. But then again, I'm used to oil field work using a 46" pipe wrench and cheater. Lol
Of course I haven't used it in the same scenario, but I've been using some stuff called blue monster. Seems to work well for what I've used it on.

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IDIoit

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this is awesome!
as a rookie @ WMO,
i would love to process the almost 250 gallons of oil i have.
any way we can convince you into drawing up a plumbing diagram?
i see all your lines, but im still sort of lost.

also could ya walk me through a step by step process on how this works?

id greatly appreciate it!:hail;Sweet
 

Brad S.

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I like it, now you'll begin to think of all the "other" stuff that you need or want to add on.
Many times we get asked by new people to the wmo scene, one thing that seems common with many wmo setups is one barrel/container is elevated above another.
Gravity is your friend in that area, not so much in others.
 

bbjordan

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System overview

Sorry for taking so long to respond. I've been busy taking the plumbing apart and cleaning it so I can redo it. :p

IDIoit I don't have a plumbing diagram...yet, but I did take some pictures of the plumbing while I was taking is apart. Maybe that will help.

I'll give a summary of how it works and then go into details with some pics.

It is a two barrel system. Some people use a one barrel system, but I don't like the idea that some of the oil may not go thru the centrifuge.
The lower barrel has a heater so I can boil off any water that may be in the oil, and to reduce the viscosity of the oil so it will centrifuge better.
The heated oil then goes to the power steering pump where it it pressurized and piped up to the centrifuge mounted in the upper barrel. The main plumbing stack has a bypass valve which also works (poorly) as my pressure regulator. PA BioDiesel recommends about 85-90 psi pressure to the 'fuge. Once all the oil has been 'fuged, the bottom barrel will be empty and top one will be full. I will then gravity drain the top barrel back down into the lower barrel and repeat. Once the oil is clean enough, I will gravity drain it into a barrel for fuel storage.

Here is a shot of the main plumbing stack. It is mostly 1/2" some 1/4" piping at the centrifuge, bypass valve and feed from the PS pump. I put some unions to make it more manageable when servicing. I also put a drain at the bottom so I could empty the stack and not create a big mess when pulling it apart.

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The lower barrel. I drilled a hole and welded a 1/2" bung to the bottom of both barrels:

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This pic show the plumbing at the bottom of the upper barrel, but both are almost the same. The upper one has an elbow at the end. The bottom one has a 5/8" barb to 1/2" MNPT fitting where it connects to the red heater hose that goes to the intake of the PS pump. See leaky pipe joint pic in original post. You can see the red hose at the bottom of the pic going to the PS pump. You can also see the high pressure line connecting to the stack. The valve with the red handle and the red hose hiding behind it are for draining the stack.

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The dryer heater in the barrel:

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Stack bottom detail:

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Top:

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bbjordan

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Regulate the pressure

I mentioned that the bypass valve worked poorly. I found that when the system was hot (80c) the valves aren't as firm. The bypass valve would slowly open from the vibration of the system. So I am going to put an adjustable pressure regulator in the system.

I think I may have over-pressurized the centrifuge. I blew the bowl seal out twice. The first time it seem to be running good. I was holding the pressure at about 90 psi, but I leaned over to look at the leaky plumbing and moved the valve. All a sudden pfff, then the growl of an unbalanced centrifuge spinning down. Doh!
I had only 'fuged a few litres of oil but the fuge had already captured some dirt. I cleaned it out, put the o-ring back in and carried on. I had done about 140L when it blew again. This time it was whirring away nicely at 90 psi and it happened again. Since this was the test run, I decided to shut it down at that point and reseal the plumbing, and take a closer look at the 'fuge bowl.

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I cleaned it out again and noticed this time the nut that holds the unit together had some room before it seated on the bowl. Uh oh.

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Probably have to get another bowl. But, for now, I just found a washer to take up the slack. I'll put it back together and run it at 80 psi. If it makes a lot of noise or vibrates excessively, I will have to replace it.

So I am going to put an adjustable pressure regulator in the system.

Did I say I was going to regulate the pressure?
 

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IDIoit

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so, what you're saying that its really important to regulate the pressure? :D

thank you for this entire post!
ive got over 150 gallons to process.
and some im affraid has lots of water in it!
i will let it settle and drain as much water as i can out.
then heat the rest and boil off like you did.

sorry if i sound really ignorant, its because i am!
i was under the impression that the centrafuge was used to seperate any water in it.
but it seems like you are just heating up the oil, to burn off any water, then youre pumping it up to another barrel.

what significant effect does running the oil through a PS have to do with it?

ive read so much stuff, my mind is clustered and confused.

id appreciate any help you could spare!
 

bbjordan

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so, what you're saying that its really important to regulate the pressure? :D
i was under the impression that the centrafuge was used to seperate any water in it.
but it seems like you are just heating up the oil, to burn off any water, then youre pumping it up to another barrel.

what significant effect does running the oil through a PS have to do with it?

In hind-site, I would not have run the system without a pressure regulator had I known how easy it was to damage the centrifuge.

The oil is heated for two reasons:
1) to get rid of the water
2) to reduce the viscosity of the oil to allow the centrifuge to work more efficiently.

The Power Steering pump is to pressurize the oil. The centrifuge needs 80 - 90 psi to operate properly. My centrifuge is mounted on the top barrel. The little blue thing in these pics:

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There are other types of centrifuges. The direct drive gravity centrifuge, for example. These do not require a high pressure pump, but cost significantly more $$.

It is better to ask questions than to make assumptions that are incorrect.

Don't be afraid to ask questions. I am not a very good writer, and what I'm trying to get across might not be clear.

Everybody starts out a noob. I'm not much past that, and I make mistakes. If some one can learn from my mistakes, then my posts have been worth it.
 

IDIoit

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looking at the PS biodiesel supply this morning
OUCH those centrifuge systems are mighty pricey!
where did you pick up the 'fuge?
ive read other places where their "kits" require a band type drum.
im guessing this is for the ease of non welded applications?
looks like im on the hunt for the main unit before i can do any sort of mock up system.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I used the same PTFE sealant on all of my threaded joints and they all leaked and all of them were TIGHT. Only a couple leaked at first so I cleaned/resealed them with RTV which fixed that problem... but after a while, all of the fittings that I used that white sealant on (same brand/bottle as pictured) started leaking.

I'm going to be relocating my whole setup in the next few weeks so when I break it down, all the threaded joints will probably get Loctite or RTV that is oil rated. If you come up with something better, do tell.

As far as damaging your 'fuge bowl.. its pretty easy to do and from what I've read, pretty easy to tweak back into shape by hand so you may give that a try before buying a new bowl. I typically run mine cold @85psi.

I'm surprised the dryer element doesn't mind being submerged... I'm interested in seeing how long it holds up. I'm planning to add heat to my process after the relocation as we set everything back up.

Keep up the good work.
-Chris
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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PABiodiesel is a good place to pick up a pump driven 'fuge.

I have mine mounted to the top of a sealed drum... drilled a large hole and used self tapping screws through the mounting holes on the base of the 'fuge. Worked out nicely.
 

bbjordan

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Back together

I took it all apart and cleaned the fittings.

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Put it all back together with black RTV. I added a coupler and another 4" section which allowed me to brace it.

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The high pressure hose now runs underneath the cross-brace.

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We shall see if it leaks this weekend.
 

homelessduck

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I have processed around 1,000 gallons with the same fuge, no issues yet ! The only reason I stopped using it was because I ended up with a rear tank full of bad fuel and haven't felt like dropping it to clean it out...haha .
 

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