Do what I did with Bruiser. Go find the same era (92-96 for you) truck at the junkyard and cut the harness out as far back as you can and spice it into yours.
not sure i need to go that far, the harness i see looks great, i just need to know the color codes to ohm everything out and find the issue. I am sure it is something stuipd and simple.. im just pulling my hair out trying to find it.
po of our 93 had spliced in the brake light switch plug for trailer lights, it had shorted and melted down, check under dash for non stock wires, get a 12 volt test light if you dont already have, our light switch had been changed also, new plug was spliced in, 1 bad butt splice was causing intermittent running lights, takes time and patients to track it all down,good luck
I just go turnsignals to work... Had to push in the hazzard button and replaced the fuse. there was power in an out of the fuse but when i put new on it ,, it worked. NOT sure
I have no hazzards but im ok with that.
brake light nly comes on over cab. Still lost on that.. Yes i change all the fuses now.
on the drivers side frame the brake lines come into a regulator of sorts. there are 4 wires to that and they got to rear of truck. i have NO power at that connection .
I do have power at the booster and that harness that runs off that.
I couldn't tell ya, but someone else should chime in soon that can. I think that at least one pin should be hot with the key on, but the valve doesn't do anything until the drums start to lock anyway.
RABS has NOTHING to do with the brake lights. It's tied to the VSS.
Work at this level requires an EVTM. Otherwise you're beg/borrow/stealing diagram here, diagram there, someone's recollection of a wire color over there. At the very least, you'll want to check all the appropriate terminal combinations at the signal/hazard switch, with each position of the switch.
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