Who's running W80/W90 full time?

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Hey guys...

Well warm weather is here and I'm finally getting most of the bugs sorted out on the 350 so I decided to give it a go for W80.

The current setup on the truck is...

54 gallon aux. bed tank... Tank gets HOT sitting in the sun. Works out nicely..
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Gravity fed via 1/2" supply through a Baldwin BF1212 fuel filter/water separator.
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1/2" supply from the filter head - Apollo 1/2" 3 port valves
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Then 3/8" from the supply valve to the input on a new stock replacement lift pump. Will soon be adding a FPHE to the mix as well.

Currently, the glow plug system doesn't work (no controller on the truck at the moment).. so it gets started every morning with a small shot of ether (as fast as I can tap the nozzle).

I was switching back and forth between diesel (main tank) and wmo for easy starting, etc... However I decided to give straight W90 a try and see how it does.

So far, it starts the same. Stopped at the convenience store to get my morning Mt Dew fix.. left the truck running and when I came back out, it was still running clean as a whistle. So far so good.

My morning commute isnt very far... say 7 miles or so. Our oil is clean... Settled for months... blended with RUG (5-10 gallons per 55 gallon batch depending on outside temp) and centrifuged for 30+ hours with a looped return. Pumped into a finished drum which is ran through a hydrosorb filter and into the trucks.

Who else is running W80-W90 full time? Any issues or things to look out for?
 

The FNG

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I used to, but since I rebuilt my injectors I haven't been running it at all. It's mostly due to a busy life and not having time to make fuel, not the fuel itself. However, when I rebuilt my injectors I found some interesting stuff. There was a lot of coming in the pre-chambers and it was causing smoke, low power, and hard starting. Most of that I attribute to highly viscous oil, low temps and bad batteries. I have some YouTube videos of it (allblackdiesel).

Sounds like you're doing well! Happy oil burning :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

janssen

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I run w85 Full time, use same system as you for cleaning oil minus the centrifuge. Am in northern Ontario where it gets cold -45 truck starts fine as long as it is plugged in, no glow plugs in my old cummins 4bt, no preheat of the oil. No problem. Have ether for cold starts when it isn't plugged in but that is a function of the engine not the fuel.

W85 has better cold weather performance then D2 IMHO as it doesn't gel.

Only issue is coking - need to set up water/**** injection system.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I had huge issues with coking on my 4bt with wmo... even with water ****. I was single tanking at the time and had a 2 mile drive to work so engine temp wouldn't ever come up.

I since went to a dual tank system but haven't had time to finish plumbing so its been on a D2 only diet for a while.

The ol' IDI however doesn't seem to mind its current diet so far. We'll see if it stays that way.
 

janssen

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Truck gets up to temp no problem as my drive is longer. I am going to try some of those fatty heaters on my injectors and see if that makes a difference, preheating before the IP made no difference in performance at all so that system was pulled. Also have played with ratios 85/15gas, 80/30d2 and no difference. Am also going to advance the IP and see what that does. I think it is burning too slow, so get it in there earlier and hot - should make a better burn.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I bumped the timing 1/8" on my 4bt (ve pump)... and it did prolong the effects of coking a bit... but didn't eliminate the issue all together.

I ran injector line heaters on my 240d along with a 20 plate heat exchanger and a looped return and it ran good as long as I would purge the system and shut down/cold start on pump diesel. I ran that car on straight W90 for several tanks but the injectors were crap and it started hazing all the time. Power was the same but the haze was bad/constant.

Preheating (I think) is very important as is a timing increase. Preheating allows for better atomization and the timing bump helps counter the slower burn of the waste oil vs. pump diesel.

I also need to increase the nozzle size on my water/**** system on my 4bt... I went with a small nozzle and for my boost/power level, they recommend quite a bit more. My 4bt is compounded and has the pump (VE) maxed out. 40psi and 450+ lb. ft. to the pavement.
 

Brad S.

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For my 2 cents, think starting & stopping on regular Diesel is a good way to stay away from possible coking problems. Having said that if your making short "hops" then it becomes more of a problem.
 
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The FNG

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For my 2 cents, think starting & stopping on regular Diesel is a good way to stay away from possible coming problems. Having said that if your making short "hops" then it becomes more of a problem.

Yes, exactly this.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Well... I was going to switch back and forth every few days but apparently I've got some nasty air intrusion on the diesel side of the system. Oil side fires right up every time.

Once I get the air issue sorted, I'll make it a point to run on diesel every other day to help keep things clean...

So far.. 2 weeks and 200 miles of W80 and not so much as a hiccup. It does haze a bit on first start but cleans up as soon as I start driving. Idles clean (exhaust is clear as can be) and runs really well.

Once I get my daily driver up and running again, I will probably not drive it to and from work... But more only when we need to run into town or on longer drives.

So far, I'm happy with how it's drinking the oil. It's slowly putting money back in my pocket.
 

Brad S.

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Acidburn, I'd also like to say, kinda like those manual valves only because it less electrical stuff to break....
I suppose I'm falling back on my "world going to heck thinking" or maybe I'm getting tired of fixing stuff as I get older.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I'm more on the "shtf" side of things now.. Being less failure prone is just another benefit. Yet another reason Im big on wmo.
 

janssen

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Total KISS theory addict here. Plus mech. I can fix. (well mostly) When you move the lever to 4wd it's in 4wd. No waiting for some solenoid motor and blinking light to tell you that it thinks it's in 4wd.
 

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